1981 245 EFI Conversion

[limezest]

Does anyone have a spare throttle cable bracket for a b230? The intake manifold I bought did not include this part.

 

[Radtap]

gotta figure out fuel lines from here

The fitting going into the filter was stripped on my car so I used one of these

JEGS 110558: -6 AN Male to 5/16 in. Tube Fitting Black - JEGS

Get the Best Performance with JEGS -6 AN Male to 5/16 in. Tube Fitting Black 110558 parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!

www.jegs.com

And an adapter so I could use the Bosch filter with my kjet lines, now that I'm doing microsquirt I'm going to run the -6 line straight to the fuel rail and use another one of those fittings for the return hardline. You can use one of the Nuke fuel rails or get the no name Chinese ones off of ebay and they're -8 AN

 

[limezest]

Pulled the rotten wiring harness.

Time to play "What's That Thing!?"

A - Vacuum connector goes into the firewall, wasn't connected to the engine
B - Maybe part of the air conditioning system? Was mounted to valve cover
C - Under the fuel pressure regulator, maybe part of PCV system
D - Definitely the drain from the PCV / oil separator
E - Oil pressure sensor maybe?
F - Crusty starter spade connector the first
G - Crusty starter spade connector the second

I'm thinking of tucking the coils over here under the wiper motor

I could definitely mount them on the valve cover, but I think it looks cleaner to have them firewall mounted. Yes, the leads would be shorter and they would not be as exposed to the exhaust heat.. but i think it looks rad.

 

[Souped]

I used to be better at this. I think C is where you would mount a mechanical fuel pump.

If no one offers up a throttle bracket, I can grab one at the pull a part. There's a couple 240s in that I want to check out.

 

[limezest]

I used to be better at this. I think C is where you would mount a mechanical fuel pump.

If no one offers up a throttle bracket, I can grab one at the pull a part. There's a couple 240s in that I want to check out.

I think I found a thottle backet from somebody on FB marketplace. I'll keep the thread updated.

 

[hessam69]

B can be cut off and it does nothing.

It was used as en early diagnostics plug, for the early diagnostic computers they had in the bad old days.

I cut them off when working on k-jet cars

 

[limezest]

@hessam69 "B" goes to a connector under the exhaust manifold in the engine case side of the bellhousing. WHAT? WHY?

The magically decomposing wiring harness is working as intended:

Pulled the timing belt, water pump and replaced the front engine seals.

The top of the aluminum cover extends ~28.7mm beyond the front of the crankshaft.
The bottom of the aluminum cover extends ~26.4mm beyond the front of the crankshaft

 

[limezest]

thanks @Radtap for the link. I picked up a couple of those, i think i'm going to use it for the return line. I found an adapter that let me connect the factory fuel filter to -6AN, but the fitting i bought for the return line was the wrong size.

 

[bobxyz]

Time to play "What's That Thing!?"

A - Vacuum connector goes into the firewall, wasn't connected to the engine
B - Maybe part of the air conditioning system? Was mounted to valve cover
C - Under the fuel pressure regulator, maybe part of PCV system
D - Definitely the drain from the PCV / oil separator
E - Oil pressure sensor maybe?
F - Crusty starter spade connector the first
G - Crusty starter spade connector the second

A - to interior vacuum actuated HVAC flaps, controlled by the 3 black buttons. Should come from the intake plenum, through a one-way valve.
B - dealer service connector - to VR (or hall, I don't remember) sensor off of a couple pins on the flywheel. Used with a special dealer tool to sense timing.
C - mechanical fuel pump block off plate
D - PCV drain to oil sump. Do NOT remove the rubber hose - it's clamped down inside the block and needs the engine removed (or pan removed) to get to the clamp.
E - Yes, oil pressure sensor
F - you don't need this one - it's used for the ballast resistor bypass during cranking on old pre-computerized ignition
G - main starter connection

If you haven't found it already, you can find a 1981 Wiring Diagrams (Greenbook) and other good literature by searching for 1981 at ozvolvo.org/archive/

 

[limezest]

So there is a secret, pre-installed sensor that may be capable of telling me about rpm and engine position?? Wonderful!
I have downloaded a bunch of the green books but have yet to find anything about this dealer service connector.

 

[sporkfan]

As suggestion, you could mount the LS coils using this bracket from Yoshifab. It worked well when I turbocharged and Megasquirted a 240 wagon.

Yoshifab

Volvo performance and fabrication

yoshifab.com

You should also be able to drive the LS coils using the distributor hall-effect sensor with a wasted spark setup. You only need two engine sensors (cam/crank) to go sequential. You could pick up a DSM cam angle sensor (CAS) from Yoshifab to do that as well.

 

[bobxyz]

So there is a secret, pre-installed sensor that may be capable of telling me about rpm and engine position?? Wonderful!
I have downloaded a bunch of the green books but have yet to find anything about this dealer service connector.

It's worthless for aftermarket EFI - IIRC, it's just 2 pins close together on the flywheel/flexplate, which gives a once around pulse at crank rate. In other words, not even as useful as a distributor with at least 2 pulses per rev.

 

[limezest]

I found a picture of the early flywheel, i see the two pins that you're talking about. Looks totally worthless to me

 

[limezest]

Huge day!

Today I cut off the front ~20mm of the crank pulley belt shroud to clear the crank trigger wheel

Test fit the intake manifold, water pump, timing belt tensioner to check clearance to the crank trigger pulley

Started on the fuel system (made my first ever AN lines!)

Removed the stock oxygen sensor and installed the wideband sensor

Found some more problems - both ball joints are torn and the exhaust has a nice crack at the muffler

 

[limezest]

As suggestion, you could mount the LS coils using this bracket from Yoshifab. It worked well when I turbocharged and Megasquirted a 240 wagon.

Yoshifab

Volvo performance and fabrication

yoshifab.com

You should also be able to drive the LS coils using the distributor hall-effect sensor with a wasted spark setup. You only need two engine sensors (cam/crank) to go sequential. You could pick up a DSM cam angle sensor (CAS) from Yoshifab to do that as well.

Thanks sporkfan! I picked up ICT Billet's aluminum relocation kit for the D581 coils on amazon.

 

[limezest]

fabbed the first draft of the crank trigger sensor

love this sticker

 

[limezest]

ordered custom parts from send cut send - blockoff plates and crank trigger wheel.

 

[limezest]

 

[limezest]

Megasquirt's "Missing tooth crank wheel and polled cam wheel" mode seems to be the right answer for me.
will remove one vane from the stock Hall-type distributor. A big thank you by the way to @Sourwould for the trade.

In this mode, when the ecu sees the first tooth on the crank wheel it polls the cam sensor. If the cam sensor sees a vane, it knows "yes, this is #1's compression cyle". The next time the crank sensor sees the first tooth on the crank, it will again poll the cam sensor and see no vane, so it will confirm that #1 is on the exhaust stroke. Full sequential acheived.

Typical settings:
Spark mode = Toothed wheel
Trigger angle/offset = 0 (not used in toothed wheel mode)
Trigger wheel arrangement = Dual wheel with missing tooth
Trigger wheel teeth = number of teeth including missing teeth (e.g. 36, 60 etc.)
Missing teeth = number of missing teeth (e.g. 1, 2)
Tooth #1 angle = tooth #1 angle as determined above
Main wheel speed = Crank wheel
Second trigger active on = Poll level
Level for phase one = as determined above


Other news: The stock Fidle / idle air control valve I want to use requires replacement of Q4 with a T120. I've ordered the parts to do that swap.

Mounted AFPR

Cut one vane off distributor, installed hall-type dizzy.
Found a page on the megasquirt manual that happens to describe the vane mod I performed precisely:

MS2V30_Hardware-3.4 page 63

 

[limezest]

Drained oil, removed wheels, hooked up throttle cable, installed timing belt, started wiring injectors, started plumbing intake

80 degrees before tooth one looks like this