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1982 Volvo 245 k jet no start

1968 volvo

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2021
Location
Santa Rosa California
Here’s my diagnosis I would love to know if there’s any validity.

I bought a Volvo 245 just 3 days ago and it’s been sitting for 20 years almost. Previous owner said he parked it when the fuel pump went out. I like to diagnose myself before buying parts and it does seem to be a fuel related problem for sure. It will run on starting fluid. I think it could likely be just the fuel pump holding it back. I cracked loose the fuel line just before the filter and I can’t get it to flow fuel so that seems like another point for the fuel pump theory. The other thing is they both are making a lot more noise then I think they should. I sorta doubt the system is completely gummed up because the gas cap has no oring on it and I’m hoping the fuel evaporated long before it varnished. Here’s the problem, I don’t know What fuel pump is bad nor do I know how to find out, also are they the same pump just twice? Thanks for your knowledge as always. Also does anyone know what size and shape the drain plug is for the fuel tank?
 
I know you don't want to hear this, but.... after that many years of neglect, you're about to encounter more fun than you expect. It might even end up similar to what this member just went through:


The 240 diesel tank has a drain plug. I wasn't aware that gasoline tanks did. Learn something new every day.
 
I know you don't want to hear this, but.... after that many years of neglect, you're about to encounter more fun than you expect. It might even end up similar to what this member just went through:


The 240 diesel tank has a drain plug. I wasn't aware that gasoline tanks did. Learn something new every day.
Yes this is possible and actually expected but I’m here for one thing at a time.
 
You forgot the part about emptying your 401k plan to be able to afford the parts.

(I dunno about Step 2, though... when they're in good shape, they work quite well.)
 
Not an expert here, but from what I remember...
KJet + standing fuel (without an o-ring seal, lots of moisture entered the tank) + years sitting = Good luck.
Hopefully you'll be able to find cheap good used parts.

But if you wanted a project, mission accomplished.
 
The problems could be myriad, from varnished gas to issues with bad fuel screwing up the fuel distributor.

As you probably know, K-Jet relies heavily on fuel pressure so any issues with fuel are going to be very problematical.

I see only misery and pain in your near future...good luck.
 
Before throwing any parts at it, you need to see if the main metering piston in the K-Jet fuel distributor is frozen up after sitting for 20 years. You'll need to pull off the big rubber intake air boot to see the metering plate. For NA, I think the plate moves downward as the airflow increases? (I had a K-Jet turbo with an easy-to-get-to fuel distributor, and the plate in that one moves upwards as the aiflow increases.) If the plate & metering piston are frozen, it may be difficult to free them up. Ask the K-Jet experts for tips.
 
what kind of fuel pump do you guys like to use? Rock auto has a ton of options some cheap and others expensive. Vp also has fuel pumps but I’m wondering if the cheaper ones are ever any good.
 
what kind of fuel pump do you guys like to use? Rock auto has a ton of options some cheap and others expensive. Vp also has fuel pumps but I’m wondering if the cheaper ones are ever any good.
I put a Bosch 0580464126 fuel pump from FCP Euro in my recently acquired 1981 kjet b21f 240. It fit perfectly and got the car running. Not the cheapest, but fast, free shipping and cheaper than VP. I have not replaced the in-tank pump. No issues after ~1100 miles so far. It makes the design 70 psi system fuel pressure. The in-tank pump is low pressure and the main high pressure. You won't get much fuel pressure on just the in-tank pump. It sounds like your main pump is dead if not both. Or there's a serious blockage.

Before throwing any parts at it, you need to see if the main metering piston in the K-Jet fuel distributor is frozen up after sitting for 20 years. You'll need to pull off the big rubber intake air boot to see the metering plate. For NA, I think the plate moves downward as the airflow increases? (I had a K-Jet turbo with an easy-to-get-to fuel distributor, and the plate in that one moves upwards as the aiflow increases.) If the plate & metering piston are frozen, it may be difficult to free them up. Ask the K-Jet experts for tips.
Mine is NA, the metering plate under the rubber boot moves up with increased airflow. I'm not sure if 1982 or California cars have a different setup due to emission related changes. I just stuck a screwdriver up through the intake hose side and was able to gently move it. I was also able to use that same screwdriver to hold the plate up while running the fuel pumps and check that my injectors worked spraying into a bottle. Definitely clean the plate so it doesn't stick.

I bought my car after it had been sitting for at least a year and got it running relatively well despite the varnished fuel and missing fuel accumulator. Didn't have to replace or mess with the fuel distributor or WUR. So there is some hope...
 
I put a Bosch 0580464126 fuel pump from FCP Euro in my recently acquired 1981 kjet b21f 240. It fit perfectly and got the car running. Not the cheapest, but fast, free shipping and cheaper than VP. I have not replaced the in-tank pump. No issues after ~1100 miles so far. It makes the design 70 psi system fuel pressure. The in-tank pump is low pressure and the main high pressure. You won't get much fuel pressure on just the in-tank pump. It sounds like your main pump is dead if not both. Or there's a serious blockage.


Mine is NA, the metering plate under the rubber boot moves up with increased airflow. I'm not sure if 1982 or California cars have a different setup due to emission related changes. I just stuck a screwdriver up through the intake hose side and was able to gently move it. I was also able to use that same screwdriver to hold the plate up while running the fuel pumps and check that my injectors worked spraying into a bottle. Definitely clean the plate so it doesn't stick.

I bought my car after it had been sitting for at least a year and got it running relatively well despite the varnished fuel and missing fuel accumulator. Didn't have to replace or mess with the fuel distributor or WUR. So there is some hope...
Thankyou brother I appreciate it. This isn’t my first Volvo rodeo and I really like these cars. I can get intimidated or just take it one step at a time. Step one is going to be replace the fuel pump (s)
 
Make sure you run any fuel with lines open into a jar or something


Ie new pumps in (granted that the tank is good and not rusty inside) open the lines prior to fuel filter and get pumps to push out all the gunk until clean fuel is coming out … then repeat this step with every component WUR, fuel distributor, injectors
 
Okay I’m back. I have been updating my build thread but it’s naturally not getting many views compared to here. Since we last spoke, I replaced the fuel tank, sending unit, and upgraded the in tank pump with ipds kit. It will start and sorta run but the second you tap the gas it immediately dies. It will run well and smooth for a second and then it sorta just lumps along from there. I have a new inline fuel pump coming in the mail cause that’s what I think it is. I will link two shorts of how it runs and you all let me know if I should focus on something else additionally
 


My build thread if you possibly want more information
 
K-Jet is all about the fuel pressure, especially for any car that's been sitting for years. You can make your own tester, or borrow/rent one from a k-jet expert.

 
I’m not watching videos


Check for flow between fuel distributor and injectors

Then check injectors


your throttle settings, spark and for crappy wiring
What did videos ever do to you?

The spark is good and strong and wires have been thoroughly inspected. My guess is that, and I should check this to confirm, the fuel pressure is fine between the distributor and injectors because it really does run flawlessly on start up and then trickles down into not running good.
 
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