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1983 Volvo 242, my first "rally car"

tooTiredtooDie

Active member
Joined
Jan 6, 2025
My ultimate goal is to learn how to rally in this car but it's going to take a bit. I first found this car in November of last year and thought it was cool looking. At the time all the money I had was supposed to be towards next semesters rent for college. I decided it couldn't hurt and went to go take a look just for the price and gawk.
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I left with the car and 1500$ poorer (too much I know of now, but I left the parking brake up during the test drive.) Also learned DO NOT go look at a car when it is dark outside. I drove it home in pouring rain with bald tires, bad front wheel bearings, steering rack, and a very spongy brake pedal. From the history the previous owner said they bought it from a single owner and got it for their daughter for high school. I thought it felt really slow for an 80's car, but I was just a dumbass and forgot the parking brake. I think I'll get a Carfax report to check if it actually has around 450,000 miles, it didn't look like it was messed with when I tore apart the odometer to install a new gear. Came with a b23 with a weird head I don't know a lot about and an aw70. Fast forward a few months, switched colleges, moved back home, and got a better job. Did a once over during the daylight, body wasn't bad but mechanically it was rough. I started plugging in things I couldn't see, and the dash started to light up. Most noticeable the brake failure light was always on. Drained practically muddy water. Don't have any pictures of this one because this is the first of 5 brake bleeds in a month. I then blew a brake caliper in the rear, replaced it. 2nd brake bleed and new tires.
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By this time, I could drive it places. One day I drove down a hill and tried to stop at a redlight, but the pedal did not react, brake failure light flashed and drove toward my impending doom, but they eventually caught. One of the front calipers had blown. Still one of the scariest things I've ever experienced. 3rd, 4th and 5th brake bleeds and a new look on life :lol:. I converted the fronts to vented rotors and replaced both calipers and a couple lines. Twisted a few brass lines off and bought a proper wrench for these lines next time. It was running pretty rough, so I decided to do an intake job/flame trap job. I didn't expect there to be a long tube that went into the oil pan it broke apart into a million pieces when I lifted the flame trap.
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I then had to an oil pan job because of how much had broken off, I didn't think an oil pan job would be too bad until I saw you needed to lift the engine. I think this is the hardest job I've done to date, I would recommend pulling the engine instead of having to deal with twisting and crawling, and head banging against the engine hoist. I joined the forum around this time and looked at what other people had done (thank you). I read an instruction the wrong way and pulled apart the oil pump to free it from the oil pan baffles and dropped one of the gears onto the concrete floor I was working on. I had worked on cars and built engines before but learned you can still find new ways to mess up. I thought I took pictures of this, but I really just wanted to get this done and over with. I also broke a motor mount in the process, but the oil filter was getting close enough to the frame. Drove it for maybe a day and felt like a million bucks. Then heard a loud scrapping sound and part of my tailpipe rusted off.
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Luckily, I pulled off the road pretty quick and tore it off and stuck it in the trunk. I was planning on going on a road trip with the car but got an alignment and they quoted me for new front bearings and a steering rack which would be twice the cost I bought it for. I installed a new rack from fcp euro and some SKF bearings that failed me later. Take that with a grain of salt because this was my first time with that style of bearings. I also did water pump around this time. It was super simple. Block definitely had just water in it at some point and I want to get it completely warshed.
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Test fit for a "hood ordainment".
 
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The driver's seat had definitely seen 450,000 miles so I changed it for a cheap bucket seat for the time being, made some new mounts. I've had a few funny reactions from people thinking I have a fast car and me trying to talk them down from a race because of this.
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Not much changed for 3 or so months drove it, had fun. Got through winter and into summer. (2025)
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One day on Facebook marketplace I saw a listing for a manual trans complete swap kit with the 5 speed. It was around a 1500-mile trip from where I live to Portland. I couldn't go for about 2 months, so I didn't count on it, but the pieces lined up and I had a friend that also needed to head up there, so we went. I think I got a pretty good deal because of how much STS parts were included with the swap. I learned though that it had been under water including the trans so that was stressful, but I opened up the box and there was no sign of rust. Also replaced the stuck u-joints in the swap driveshaft.
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I started on the manual swap around a month ago, but things keep getting in the way. Started harder math courses so don't have many days off. Hopefully will be done October 9th-10th?
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Dropped the starter in the trans oil drain pan :lol:.
I plan (before rally) to get a roll cage, some better harnesses, gravel or snow tires, better lights, some suspension upgrades but still trying to keep it stock, an exhaust, and hopefully an LSD and better gearing.
I already got a newer coffin hood and windshield, just need to be installed. Heres some goodies I found from cleaning the interior.
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They said the car came from southern Utah but it's telling a different story. I say around a year until I can actually join a rally.
 
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When posting things from imgur, my preferred method is to open the album, then open the image I want to post in a new tab, then I copy that URL, and post it in the following format:
Code:
[URL='IMAGELINK.jpg'][IMG]IMAGELINKl.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Note the lowercase 'l' before the extension in the IMG tag, this displays at a forum friendly size, and the URL tag links to the full size image.

If I had the time to figure out imgur's coding better, I'd like to write a user script that adds a 'copy TB code' option to the menu on their images that does this automatically.

Maybe I'll get to it over the winter.
 
I just opened it in a new tab and that seemed to work, thanks. Double checked with my phone this time lol.
 
This is great, love seeing more rally volvos. You would be surprised how far you can get in a full stage rally with a basically stock 240, don't worry too much about upgrades and spend time/effort on safety equipment and entry fees!
 
When posting things from imgur, my preferred method is to open the album, then open the image I want to post in a new tab, then I copy that URL, and post it in the following format:
Code:
[URL='IMAGELINK.jpg'][IMG]IMAGELINKl.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Note the lowercase 'l' before the extension in the IMG tag, this displays at a forum friendly size, and the URL tag links to the full size image.

If I had the time to figure out imgur's coding better, I'd like to write a user script that adds a 'copy TB code' option to the menu on their images that does this automatically.

Maybe I'll get to it over the winter.
I've used Imgur for years and it's always been a fine solution, but here lately they've kinda broken the ability to copy a specific image URL from their app or a mobile browser. Works fine on desktop but when you're on the go it's frustrating.
 
I've used Imgur for years and it's always been a fine solution, but here lately they've kinda broken the ability to copy a specific image URL from their app or a mobile browser. Works fine on desktop but when you're on the go it's frustrating.
It's doable on mobile, but only if you don't automatically open in the app. At least on Firefox. This winter I want to make another user script that adds a "copy forum link" button to imgur's site and just spits out that format, but we'll see. Also that still doesn't help people on mobile.
 
Tried to fit the m47 into the car and my transmission tunnel is not liking it, also wanted to inspect/ change out some other stuff so I decided to pull the engine. The front timing cover is missing 2 bolts because the previous owner/mechanic snapped them off so ill also be able to fix that once the engines completely out. I am also looking forward to cleaning the bay. I also did install the flywheel and clutch plate completely and then heard about how crappy the elring RMS is, so I got an oem one, and while removing it the flywheel I somehow wedged my thumb in-between the flywheel and the block and got bit.
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The engine is not pulled yet just don't have enough time, hopefully more progress this Thursday.
 
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Where about? We lost our home rally in the northeast a few years ago. Gotta travel at least 15hrs now to do anything more than a day in the USA
 
I actually was only hearing about the rallys in the north east or a TSD style in Oregon. I live in Utah so I wasn't that concerned about finding somewhere to practice as most of Utah is a desert. I've heard about 2 rallys vaugly, one at UMC raceway in Utah a winter style one, that is more of rally cross, and one in North Idaho that wasn't very official.
 
Before you do anything to the car, read through the ARA regulations. SCCA and NASA wouldn't hurt too. If you want to talk to someone about building a stage rally 240, @pat244ti has done it, and Adam Brock (9hio) does mobile cage fab and rallies his 240.

I've been involved with rally for many years now, primarilly with Sandblast Rally in SC, Overmountain/Bristol Forests in TN, and Boone Forest Rally in KY. Unfortunately that's all been under the hood of making the events happen and I've never competed. Maybe one day.

Anyone in rally will tell you to buy your first car, and from a practical standpoint, they're absolutely right. You can buy a prepped rally car for FAR cheaper than you can build one, but I totally get the attraction of wanting to build your car.
 
Before you do anything to the car, read through the ARA regulations. SCCA and NASA wouldn't hurt too. If you want to talk to someone about building a stage rally 240, @pat244ti has done it, and Adam Brock (9hio) does mobile cage fab and rallies his 240.

I've been involved with rally for many years now, primarilly with Sandblast Rally in SC, Overmountain/Bristol Forests in TN, and Boone Forest Rally in KY. Unfortunately that's all been under the hood of making the events happen and I've never competed. Maybe one day.

Anyone in rally will tell you to buy your first car, and from a practical standpoint, they're absolutely right. You can buy a prepped rally car for FAR cheaper than you can build one, but I totally get the attraction of wanting to build your car.
We're tentatively planning to do Boone next year if it happens. That or Overmountain. 🤞
 
Thank you, I haven't really started to research into this stuff because it seems like quite a ways until I could actually join a stage and learning the rules is a good start lol. Thankfully my dad used to be a rock crawler so he's built some pretty cool cages and plans to build mine. I'm hoping my local track has someone there to certify the cage, I might be able to join one those rallys in 6ish years because of college. As much as early subarus have an attractive price tag and after market from what I've heard a slow RWD platform is the best place to start. I also, besides the differential and cage plan to keep everything stock.
 
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