1985 245 idle issues

[Nicobend]

Hi, my name is Nico and I wanted a Volvo 240 for a long time. I recently bought 85 245 with 177 miles and a four-speed with overdrive I’ve always wanted one and I thought I found a decent one but to my knowledge it’s been running extremely rich I had a Volvo friend come over and tell me that it’s probably the wiring throughout the whole car making it not run right and just wanted to confirm with the community. He also talked about other things like the knock sensor, retarding, and advancing the timing and to do a compression test. He was telling me to check the valve hushers.

I haven’t really looked into the car that much because the clutch recently went out and I am focusing on dropping the tranny and finishing that up

But would just love to get it running right

 

[Markos Simopoulos]

whats your mpg? and is it driving pretty normal otherwise?

 

[bobxyz]

Can you post some pictures of the engine compartment, and a close-up of the wiring harness as it goes through the fire wall? '85 is within the range where the original wiring had problems with the insulation breaking down and falling off.

Note: pictures need to be resized to 1MB, or less, to be posted.

 

[Nicobend]

Started once I parked the car for a while, and the clutch went out. It was having a very interesting thing where the clutch or some thing had a hotspot in first gear and in a little bit in second gear, you put it in, and it was just slip and catch and slip and catch, forcing the car to almost lug back-and-forth.

Once I figured out that the car was running at rich, I could almost smell fuel in the exhaust and also fuel in the crank case a little bit. When I took off the oil cap I’m going to try and take some pictures tomorrow but before all this, it literally had a entire trip from Santa Cruz California all the way up to Central Oregon without any problems 12+ hour drive and The clutch started to go out a few weeks after I got home( and the weird first second gear problem with it lugging back-and-forth. I know it’s the clutch because you would be in second and just gaining RPMs without going anywhere. I’m also pretty sure it’s got the original clutch)

ALSO I decided on buying a $400 stage to South bend clutch kit as well as getting a IPD pilot, bearing rear main seal and the weird crank seal under the rear main. I also got a pivot ball for the clutch fork and was wondering if I should get an entire clutch fork as well. Thanks again

 

[Nicobend]

Also, I am fine with just putting my phone number on here and sending you guys some pictures it would be a lot easier than resizing them.

 

[Nicobend]

whats your mpg? and is it driving pretty normal otherwise?

Well, right before the clutch one out, it was very interesting. The car was logging in first gear, almost chugging back-and-forth, like it was stalling out even with gas. I eventually thought it was the clutch, slipping and catching and slipping and catching, but now that I’ve taken the clutch pressure plate and clutch out. I’m honestly kind of stuck somewhere due to the fact that the clutch doesn’t even look worn out. It looks pretty OK in a few more weeks, I’ll be getting the other clutch that I’m going to put in and hopefully be able to drive the car

 

[Markos Simopoulos]

I think that’s lh2.2 right? If your sure its to rich I’d start with checking the ohms on the coolant temp sensor/ make sure it’s the correct one. But yes wiring is the main issue with these cars especially below the harmonic balancer oil gets there and just disintegrates the wires. IMO it can be more cost effective and way less of a headache to MS convert than pull the parts cannon and such. As far your clutch is concerned if you have the stamp steel fork I have read that they can warp. Also do you have a flat flywheel?

 

[Nicobend]

Could I possibly get your phone number and we can chat better over there? I can send you some pictures of my fly wheel and I have the clutch and fucking fork taken out right now so I will look at that too.