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1989 245 won’t stay running

The diagram shows the fuel "pump" relay giving 12V to the injectors. I call it the fuel system relay since it controls both the pump and ECU and if you just think it's for the pumps it can be misguiding for a novice. The ECU has an injector driver that grounds all 4 injectors at the same time to create the pulse. Look up how the relay works on an LH car and try poking around with it. If the CEL doesn't turn on in key position 2 then you know the ECU isn't being turned on.
Whats the meaning of CEL, im Spanish and struggle with some technical words sorry
 
For a quick check, what I like to do is just shim the relay. In the past, when I could remember which pin was hot and when, I would use a test light.

But my goto now is plastic shims in the fuel pump relay.

Don't leave them there! There's a definite non-zero % chance of a thermal event.

But if it starts and stays running, usually the relay is damaged (reflow needed) or maybe the tach signal is missing (problem with wiring or the cluster).
 
I will give a crash course in what I am talking about.

This is the fuel system relay on a Volvo 240. Specifically, this is off of a 1989 Volvo 245 LH2.2.


The first thing you need to do is remove the relay from the car and open it up.


There are two contacts in this relay:


Therefore, you need two shims like so:


---

That being said...

I don't see how doing this powers up the ECM although I know that it does. I put a noid light on mine when I first got it home in June and also a spark test light and had neither. Shimming the relay, it started on the first turn of the key.

So I reflowed the solder joints and have had no problem since.

But looking at the wiring diagram, I don't see it. Anyone that wants to explain it, feel free to jump in!
 
I will give a crash course in what I am talking about.

This is the fuel system relay on a Volvo 240. Specifically, this is off of a 1989 Volvo 245 LH2.2.


The first thing you need to do is remove the relay from the car and open it up.


There are two contacts in this relay:


Therefore, you need two shims like so:


---

That being said...

I don't see how doing this powers up the ECM although I know that it does. I put a noid light on mine when I first got it home in June and also a spark test light and had neither. Shimming the relay, it started on the first turn of the key.

So I reflowed the solder joints and have had no problem since.

But looking at the wiring diagram, I don't see it. Anyone that wants to explain it, feel free to jump in!
My 940 is lh 2.4 Fuel pump relay is in front row second from the right it’s different and can’t be opened but tried with another ones and nothing and even hot wiring it while cranking and still showed no signs of wanting to start. The rsr relay clicks when turning the key so I suspect it’s not a relay problem
 
The rsr relay clicks when turning the key so I suspect it’s not a relay problem

That the relay is clicking means absolutely nothing.

Maybe it's staying engaged. Maybe it's not. Time for you to find a wiring diagram and observe the output of the relay with a test light.
 
My 940 is lh 2.4...

You also should create your own post in Maintenance instead of jumping in here.

Take a look at the diagram here: https://ozvolvo.org/archive/?book=908864f399. The relay is feature number 2/13 and there is a breakout on page 26 of the PDF. It says page 24 on the scan, FYI.

Get out a low impedance DVOM and check the relay pins. You should be careful with a test light until you really know how to use it so that you don't accidently overload one of the components (ECM, ICM, ABS!!!, etc).

edit:// also look here: (about half way down the page there's a way to jumper the 940.

 
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’89 was the changeover year from LH 2.2 to LH2.4. In most markets, ‘89 turbos we’re still LH 2.2. A mystery no start like this with LH 2.2 was often the 25A system fuse under the hood or the Hall sensor in the distributor. If it won’t crank then the ignition switch and shifter PNP switch are your main suspects. In LH 2.4 your main suspects would be the CPS, FP relay and ECU (in that order, with the original ‘89-‘90 pink label ECUs being a prime suspect).
 
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