1990 240 Turbo

[ChrisD]

Okay, I would prefer the glass, because it can handle more strikes from rocks. Someone has taken my lights apart before, there is red engine silicone as an evidense. I think that I can handle the sanding, it will take some mental lubrication and time.

If you want to go that way, then manage your time, because sanding it can make it go warm and crack. You might want to use wet sandpapers after a point with extra water in the glass and also having to stop from time to time to let it cool down (ask me how I know) and not crack!!!
I will still suggest the acrylic one, even if it can get chips from stones, as it is easire to replace it from another cheap china led headlight.

 

[Finnish240]

Changed the light setup to H4/H1. Dunno what the wiring should be, but I just took the high beam wire from original H4 and connected it to H1. I also did put bumber trims on, seems fine, but needs some adjusting, glue and paint.

 

[carlosabh71]

Ñ0

 

[Finnish240]

It was MOT time again, and I was very sure that I need to fix somethimg to keep this road legal. I don't hve the time right now because I'm doing house reno things. Smoke test was the smoothest by far. Rear lights has some grounding issues maybe, fog and reverse lights has some delay, but they worked good enough

I forgot to ask about light regulations, if I do projectors.

 

[Finnish240]

Car sat outside whole winter, so I could do the saw work and stpre some wood in garage. It had half a meter of snow over it and damp conditions. Winter was "warm". First I had to paint front fenders again, because primer paint was bad and it stored water under paint

Metal was rusted so I stripped all off and primed it again. I need to find better fenders. I think that these are too thin and dented to repair if there will be welding.

At test drive I noticed that passenger rear caliber is stuck. Pads were really worn, not sure did they go like that in 10km test drive or before. Pistons were clear, gave them some grease and pumped few times in and out. With new TRW pads we had the best brakes at MOT brake test so far. I did put same TRW pads to front aswell.

I changed the swaybar end links, and body pushings. I grinded the stopper from end link and made new stopper from long nut that I cut in right lenght for sways being in neutral position. I think that this made the handling best so far with this car. No bump steer amymore

I changed Lucacarmods strut bearings too tho, but I think that they gave only some presicion on handling?

Ordered new tyres on D004s since old ones are worn. I had to borrow winter car tyres for MOT

 

[Quin]

i really like the front end of this car.

 

[adomz]

Damn this thing looks ace!

 

[Finnish240]

i really like the front end of this car.

Damn this thing looks ace!

Thank you guys!

 

[Finnish240]

Rear end of the Volvo has been a headache for me. I had a feeling that I need to test the Bross one and see if I like it or not. I may change it a bit because it looks so massive to me. Maybe a diffuser, dunno yet.

 

[Finnish240]

I've been struggling with smell of burning oil since I took the car from garage and started driving again after winter. Gearbox leaks, and has been leaking from day 1 after m90 swap. Leak is between gearbox casing halves, and seems like there is a small leak in gear selector.

Car smells only after driving, speed may affect, not sure. I discovered that PS pump suction hose clamp was broke and PS fluid came out slowly from there. CI changed the clamp, but noticed that alternator is pushing the hose too much. I decided to change the alternator to smaller unit. Not so long ago I changed one Toyota Auris alternator and noticed how small but goodish power it had. I bought a "Denso style" alternator, made some mods to mounting and wired it to work. Now we have clearance and same ampers that stock had (65A).

So after this I was hoping that it was PS fluid that smelled, but no Maybe I need to pull the f***ing transmission out and reseal it. Car makes decent suction to PCV system, and IC piping seems to be dry in and out. Only small amount of oil before turbo but I've seen more worse.

I bought a new PVC box but it can wait a bit. I have seen somewhere a picture where someone had added extra nipple to additional breathing, but I didn't gind it with google search. I want to add an extra breathing point to fuel pump plate that is next to distributor.

 

[Finnish240]

I took the trans out, it was a ~3 hour job with car jack and stands. Hardest thing was maybe starter upper bolt that hits to trans tunnel. I washed the transmission with WD40, white spirit and pressure washer soap with foam lance. It came oil free out side.

My m90 is 1993, I dunno is there different parts between years. After serious googling I orderd rear seal Volvo parts number 9183891 and gear selector seal 907705. New ones are made by Corteco. I disassembled the tranny halves, made quick check that there is no loose parts and cleaned the mating surfaces. Seal removal was hardest seal pulling job that I can remember. They were so stuck that I had to use some proper finnish language that they understoof to come loose.

New parts were right and install was normal. I used Hylomar blue to mating surfaces. I made three passes tightening that Hylomar sets nicely. I let it cure over night and filled tranny with oil and oil additive.

With car jack and DIY trolley I managed to install M90 back in. There was a tight spot in tunnel.The bubble in bell housing for starter hits badly to tunnel, but I pushed the engine to right so I got some room. I had to use same method to put that upper starter bolt back in.

Now I am doing some tidying and slowly putting everything back.

 

[Finnish240]

Clutch slave cylinder popped it's piston out. I may have pressed the pedal by accident while working shifter setup. I assembled driveshaft, exhaust pipe plus some other small things and did some bleeding for clutch but it didn't work. I had to stop working, but this morning I bled it again just opening the bleed screw and putting new DOT 4 to reservoir. Now we have a clutch! Test drive was nice, no burning oil, just some other smell after fresh install of the down pipe nuts etc.

Next I'll reseal the tail lights and make the shine again. Clear turn signal lenses and those tail lights were the first thing that I have done to this car.

 

[Finnish240]

I couldn't find the same rear light varnish, and lower out corner lenses may have faded too much, so I need to buy new ones at some point.

I had some color mitch-match on rear corners (there are few different whites still in this car ). I sanded the old stuff out and repainted both sides. They came out good enough for now. There maybe a point when car gets a full over spray at some point.

 

[Finnish240]

Car has had some oil fume scent still but MOT went fine. I ordered new breatherbox at spring when this saga began. So after MOT I changed the PVC box. Not majure success with smell. Next I added a "catch can", I found that people have used pneumatic water extractor, so I tried that. I am going to use proper catch can later. I drove it and found that catch can catches some petrol rather than oil. Then I did remember that I had an malfunctioning -025 AMM (used part from 960 Volvo). Maybe bad oil causes the smell? I used syringe to suck some oil out and added new. Dunno, maybe that it helped a bit?

Next I continued to look if there is a leak or leaks. I found that oil cap and turbo drain flange had some moisture. Oil cap got new seal, and turbo flange was a bot loose. After those I found that dipstick pipe end was moist too, so new O-ring to there too...

Turbo didn't have a coolant circulation, so I desided to add one. Have used cheap coolant hoses, so there wasn't much pain to cut excisting ones. I couldn't find the mitsu coolant pipes from my staches but I had some Garrett ones. I welded some banjo fittings and T-couplings to circulate coolant to turbo. There were no leaks so i may upgrade the hoses to Do88 ones during winter.

Next I changed new oil and X1R oil additive. Some pulls and it smelled some times, some times not. I added a breathing line from fuel pump flange directly to catch can. Same time I upgraded suction fitment on turbo intake to larger size.

I also modified my 3rd engine mount to 740 gearbox mounting bushing. I had sway bar end link rubber bushings on both end before this. There was some vibrations before but not bad. Now engine is not shaking and vibrations are minimal.

Bought some welding wire that is suitable for stainless. I had some scrap stainless so I tried to do new exhaust pipe end. Skirt needs some love some time, but this boxy end looks good to me.

I added more pics than never

So one more from random test drive

 

[Finnish240]

Did a quick polish. Now it'd time to just drive this thing

Paint gets this gray stuff on it very easily. I have tried different waxes to keep it kinda nice.

This time I used a Mequiars Ultimate Compound to polish and added somekind of (cheap) ceramic coating.