1991 740 pickup LR4 V8/4L60e Swap

[lookforjoe]

Worked on the handbrake. All the components were rusted & seized. The critical parts - the pivots, guide pins & barrels have to be saved

derusted, & greased

oil blacked the pivot pin that is NLA

Support for the Guide bushing for the right cable was rusted out, so I used a coated clamp to retain the bushing

pivot mechanism for main cable, to replace the axle-mounted rusted out ear

Making sure the cable offset clears the springs

re-routed the caliper flex lines to clear the springs & frame on compression

new cable threaded section is damaged as supplied - the adjuster nut cannot thread onto this as it is. Had to take a thread file & regular file to cut this back so the nut would fit

this car is a mess - there is crap everywhere in my way. I'm seriously considering charging him an extra annoyance fee for having to clean all his shit up before I can work

Started on the AC system renovation

Replaced the 5 mount bushings

Used the cupholder insert I got from Jack - this car had noting - mine is still usable

Much still to go

 

[DET17]

Double the labor charge!

If your brake hardware salvage efforts don't bear fruit, I've got several sets of those items (parking brake mechanism inside the rear mini-drums) which came from rust free ATL vehicles. LMK if you need some parts.....hope I kept them when I purged the Underground Swedish Garage in GA.

 

[corivus]

uhhhh would you like the ebrake hardware from my 740 shell? since my other shell finally went to the scrap yard after getting just about everything I could logically use this one is up next to have a date with my cutoff disc. (the seats are going in the SE). AFAIK the blue one has only been in arizona so it should be really rust free.

 

[lookforjoe]

uhhhh would you like the ebrake hardware from my 740 shell? since my other shell finally went to the scrap yard after getting just about everything I could logically use this one is up next to have a date with my cutoff disc. (the seats are going in the SE). AFAIK the blue one has only been in arizona so it should be really rust free.

That would be awesome, Corey!
The pieces I need are the pivot assemblies that the cable attaches to in the hub.


And if possible, the guide bracket & bushing that is bolted to the top of the diff.

 

[corivus]

That would be awesome, Corey!
The pieces I need are the pivot assemblies that the cable attaches to in the hub.
View attachment 37539

And if possible, the guide bracket & bushing that is bolted to the top of the diff.

Today and tomorrow are "Supposed" to be slow to me so I'll see about getting that shell back into the bay.

 

[lookforjoe]

Worked on the bed liner today. I've had the liner for at least 2 or 3 years - a shop gave it to me back then, and I just never got around to it.
I thought it was too wide, turns out its actually a little narrower than the Volvo bed
Chopped the forward end off first, so I could at least get it in

Started cutting the back corners to fit. I eyeball it, cut with sawsall, then use those measurements to do the other side

next...

Notches for the stake holders, then it started to sit better

chopped off the back floor

Coming along

Have to add the finished end back

along these lines

Using blocks to hold the sides in place - the end caps will need to be refitted

Cut & test fitted the forward wall - then cut the top elbow cap off so I could widen it to fit the sides, rivet in place

top edge fits pretty well

got the forward wall riveted & ran out of light

washed the front wall

 

[lookforjoe]

Found a problem with the reinforced torque arm subframe - with a full load in the bed, the driveshaft yoke whacks the edge(!)

marks on yoke

cut back the subframe edge

 

[lookforjoe]

OK - 3 & 1/2 years later - FINALLY getting back to the V8 install.
Today I took care of the trans internal harness, output shaft seal, filter & pan gasket. Removed the trans from the motor so I can do the pump seal, and rear engine seals

New harness installed - the accumulator & solenoid newt to the plug had to come out along with the pwm TCC valve at the front right

The angle bracket is a aftermarket fix to stop the harness plug ever dropping into the trans again

Also bought a second set of mounts & brackets - I was informed that with these, less tunnel mods were required. Comparing them, it seems a dubious claim, as the drivetrain sits further back than with the JTR mounts I modified
JTR

Giffin

JTR

Giffin

 

[lookforjoe]

engine goodies

valley cover out

both knock sensor covers broke

just noting belt routing

removing damper

rear cover

front cover off

front crank seal out

marked the hard to find crank gear TDC dot

dowels inserted to keep lifters at bay for cam removal

the left head seems to suffer from oil coking more than the right?

Didn't have time to do the valve springs or swap the cam, so tomorrow for all that

 

[DET17]

Miles on the LS and trans? Planning to keep the engine NA or will boost be added?

Isn't retirement great? I know the answer to that one......

 

[lookforjoe]

Miles on the LS and trans? Planning to keep the engine NA or will boost be added?

Isn't retirement great? I know the answer to that one......

They claimed 130K, I think - it's been all out 4 years sitting in my garage (between Nayck & here) NA

New valve seals, springs, camshaft & pushrods installed
Heavier coking on the left bank is apparently due to poor venting - there is a revised design valve cover with revised baffles, so I ordered them. I also installed the revised baffled valley cover yesterday

Revised valley cover with PCV

 

[lookforjoe]

More work on the motor

drilling 1/8npt for port to rightside valve cover vent

used the hard line previously used for the left side rear valve cover vent, that is not used with the valley PCV

media blasted the cover & painted

centering tool

front seal installed

balancer installed, torqued to 37ft/lb, then 140º

Volvo flywheel lock tool

water pump & spacers on, belts on

 

[Fandango]

Love the progress, keep it up. I bet that cam will be great in that 4.8.

 

[lookforjoe]

Fuel injectors, new spark plugs (.040" gap) installed

Worked on the missing PCM connections for the PNP switch

Waiting for parts. I removed & media blasted the TB & painted it

 

[lookforjoe]

Back & forth with the drivetrain.
I ordered the wrong trans seal kit - mine has a front pump ring, but the kit listed for 2004 came with a wedge seal. I changed the input shaft seal & the shaft ring, then removed the pump to replace the gasket & o-ring to find the decrepancy. The other issue is that I didn't know to stand the trans on end, so the drum with clutch discs came partially out, which meant I then had to remove it completely, set the trans on end, and reassemble the drum & outer band back onto the main shaft. I still don't have the pump o-ring & can't wait an additional week or more at this point, so I put it back together with the new gasket & old o-ring. I wan't leaking before, and hopefully won't leak now.

put on the new valve covers I had been waiting for, and assembled the coils and brackets

After this I discovered that the Corvette rail covers don't work with these coils and brackets - they don't sit right at all

media blasted the bell housing, painted & reassembled the trans & mated it with the engine. Flex plate bolts installed, then starter motor.

Routed the EMS harness over the engine & transmission

tucked the trans harness behind the cooler lines to minimize interference with the tunnel (that requires bashing for clearance)

made brackets to allow use of the stock under pan battery cable bracket

 

[lookforjoe]

Spent time Tuesday on running the range selector, neutral position & reverse light harness through the bulkhead connector (using my wonderful Datsun bench ) & wired the connectors on the bay side of the harness. Thankfully I remembered about the efan connections before I had assembled the whole thing, so I added the two wires for that into the loom.

That's mostly it as far as drivetrain prep goes, now I need to pull the stick drivetrain. I've only got about 2 weeks until the national Volvo meet, which is being hosted here in Trumansburg, NY.
It may not be running by then, in which case I will have it towed to the field

Started pulling apart the 740 today. Removed the bumper, lights, grille, rad support, Intercooler & piping, vacuum pump & tubing, and started pulling out the wiring that's no longer needed. Separated the engine harnesses from the left & right bulkhead connectors.

Just need these three from the left harness - Black= oil pressure gauge, Yellow-white, Yellow-Black = coolant temp gauge

right side harness

These will come out with the drivetrain

Starter solenoid bolt broke out the case when I tried to remove the + batt cable

 

[lookforjoe]

Yesterday I started pulling apart the right side harness to remove all the EMS stuff I don't need. It needs to be pulled through into the passenger compartment.

Separate issue, I have to figure out if I can wire my cruise control using the GM control. I cannot use the Volvo setup, since the GM drivetrain is drive by wire. EDIT - I posted on FB about this, and they said just wire the 4 stalk I/O to the TAC module, no relays

I will need to add the four wires into this connector

AC evacuated & lines removed

Removed the gas pedal to figure out altering the GM DBW

Needs to be higher up & further right than shown here

Notched the arm so I could change the offset, to fit. Need to mount it higher than in the pic above

Removed the Rex ignition system and cruise harnesses that pass into the bay

Getting closer to removal - Only have a week or so to get the drivetrain set before the VCOA national meet - I'm not expecting to have it finished, I just want the V8 in the chassis. I'll tow it the 15min drive to the fairgrounds.