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1991 740 pickup LR4 V8/4L60e Swap
- Thread starter lookforjoe
- Start date
- Joined
- May 27, 2008
- Location
- Ithaca, NY
Forgot to post the past few days work
Wednesday: Busy day. First I figured out the rad hoses with the revised rad placement
For the lower house I used a Gates 21026, cut in half & flipped the larger engine side to get the correct offset. I used a 1.25" coupler to join it
For the upper hose, the Gates 22373 is the perfect form but the rad neck end is 1.5", and I need 1.375". I may just have to sleeve the rad neck to make it fit
Rad will sit about 3" below the frame rail. I'm probably going to cut off the filler on the end tank, as that requires the 4" drop pictured
After that I removed the drivetrain to work on the further tunnel mods
After much abuse of left & right sides. I'll have to clean it all up & weld the damage later
While I had the drivetrain out, I figured out where the EMS harness could pass through, so I drilled the 2" hole in the firewall
Cleaned up & filed out to 2.125" for the grommet ID. It's going to be close to the back of the motor
After those details were addressed I put the drivetrain back in. Figuring out a routine that works. It's easier with the rad support out, so I think I'll make it a removable panel
Harness clearance. This will need a heat shield
Better fit now with the additional tunnel work
I had shaved the rail cover to clear the booster, that actually wasn't necessary
Drivetrain sits at a better angle
However, the pan is skimming the subframe. That will need to be addressed
Part of the equation here is that the transmission sits higher up - in fact I added a 1" block to raise the trans off the mount, which pretty much levelled things nicely.
Driveline angle looks much better here. I'll remeasure the shaft . Have to figure out the mount.
More room for the downpipe here, with the forward end of the inner transmission rail removed
More welding work I have made for myself - this is on the driver's side.
Wednesday: Busy day. First I figured out the rad hoses with the revised rad placement
For the lower house I used a Gates 21026, cut in half & flipped the larger engine side to get the correct offset. I used a 1.25" coupler to join it
For the upper hose, the Gates 22373 is the perfect form but the rad neck end is 1.5", and I need 1.375". I may just have to sleeve the rad neck to make it fit
Rad will sit about 3" below the frame rail. I'm probably going to cut off the filler on the end tank, as that requires the 4" drop pictured
After that I removed the drivetrain to work on the further tunnel mods
After much abuse of left & right sides. I'll have to clean it all up & weld the damage later
While I had the drivetrain out, I figured out where the EMS harness could pass through, so I drilled the 2" hole in the firewall
Cleaned up & filed out to 2.125" for the grommet ID. It's going to be close to the back of the motor
After those details were addressed I put the drivetrain back in. Figuring out a routine that works. It's easier with the rad support out, so I think I'll make it a removable panel
Harness clearance. This will need a heat shield
Better fit now with the additional tunnel work
I had shaved the rail cover to clear the booster, that actually wasn't necessary
Drivetrain sits at a better angle
However, the pan is skimming the subframe. That will need to be addressed
Part of the equation here is that the transmission sits higher up - in fact I added a 1" block to raise the trans off the mount, which pretty much levelled things nicely.
Driveline angle looks much better here. I'll remeasure the shaft . Have to figure out the mount.
More room for the downpipe here, with the forward end of the inner transmission rail removed
More welding work I have made for myself - this is on the driver's side.
- Joined
- May 27, 2008
- Location
- Ithaca, NY
Thursday I worked on the cooling / heater system, and the fuel filter/FPR placement.
Heater feed is cleanest over the motor, so that's the path I've chosen. Running it along the rail will end up too cluttered with the harnesses. and the AC parts
Figured out rad placement and the upper hose:
3 & 3/4" below frame rail. Adding 1/4" for padding under the rad
X1/9 rad hose cut in half. coupled with 1/2 of the 22373 hose
Heater valve hoses to core
1 heater hose from branch pipe, cut down x2
Coolant tank from P80, C30 reservoir hose cut down for the branch
Fabricated new lines to go from the Volvo filter under the car to the new unit, and to the fuel rail.
3/4" return hose along the frame.
Elbows are cut from C30 heater hoses
Removing stick reservoir bracket, installing reservoir and bracket from a Volvo V70
Branch section is cut from C30 reservoir hose
Fan clearance looks great with the rad positioned forward and lowered 3.5" to clear support baffles
Upper hose is resolved. Rad side is a X1/9 rad hose cut in half
FPR/Filter placement
The return line will need work. Where it drops alongside the frame, it has a dogleg that pushes it out toward the exhaust manifold. I'll likely redo the return in nitrile line all the way back to the tank connection.
Parts
After some back & forth with positing, FPR clearance off the heater valve
Heater feed is cleanest over the motor, so that's the path I've chosen. Running it along the rail will end up too cluttered with the harnesses. and the AC parts
Figured out rad placement and the upper hose:
3 & 3/4" below frame rail. Adding 1/4" for padding under the rad
X1/9 rad hose cut in half. coupled with 1/2 of the 22373 hose
Heater valve hoses to core
1 heater hose from branch pipe, cut down x2Coolant tank from P80, C30 reservoir hose cut down for the branch
Fabricated new lines to go from the Volvo filter under the car to the new unit, and to the fuel rail.
3/4" return hose along the frame.
Elbows are cut from C30 heater hoses
Removing stick reservoir bracket, installing reservoir and bracket from a Volvo V70
Branch section is cut from C30 reservoir hose
Fan clearance looks great with the rad positioned forward and lowered 3.5" to clear support baffles
Upper hose is resolved. Rad side is a X1/9 rad hose cut in half
FPR/Filter placement
The return line will need work. Where it drops alongside the frame, it has a dogleg that pushes it out toward the exhaust manifold. I'll likely redo the return in nitrile line all the way back to the tank connection.
Parts
After some back & forth with positing, FPR clearance off the heater valve
- Joined
- May 27, 2008
- Location
- Ithaca, NY
Friday I worked on the rad support member. I used 2" U channel, and made it removable. Then I worked on fitting the fan shroud mount & the AC condenser & hose to the compressor
Angle iron for the weld tabs
Shaping the U channel
I eyeball the drill locations so I sandwich the plates for drilling
To make the other side the same...
Nut inserts on one side
Studs in the other
Cutting off part of the tow hook brace that is in the way
Tacked the weld brackets after some adjustments. I forgot to take into account the upward rake of the frame rail
So when installing, it is hooked in on the right,
Then set in on the left. This way all hardware is accessible from the outside
That took care of the rad mount, so then I made tabs for the fan shroud to locate in
And brackets on top
I'm going to weld in a bong on the top left where I removed the filler neck. That will be the red vent to the coolant tank
With that secured I worked on mounting the AC condenser. It locates in the upper tie plate so I put that back in and anchored it there to get the positioning right.
Volvo C30 front seat belt guides turned out to be the perfect size for the anchoring pins on the condenser
I need to decide where I'm going with the transmission cooler. It will be easier to put it under the battery tray. Less air flow though
Next, I worked on the AC hose from the compressor to the condenser. Had to put the headlight back in for that
This is my best solution so far. It's actually not in the way of the bumper even though it appears so. The bumper shock has ears that mount in two the frame rail, but the tube diameter will not really interfere with the hose. I experimented with looping the hose underneath but that got very convoluted.
Angle iron for the weld tabs
Shaping the U channel
I eyeball the drill locations so I sandwich the plates for drilling
To make the other side the same...
Nut inserts on one side
Studs in the other
Cutting off part of the tow hook brace that is in the way
Tacked the weld brackets after some adjustments. I forgot to take into account the upward rake of the frame rail
So when installing, it is hooked in on the right,
Then set in on the left. This way all hardware is accessible from the outside
That took care of the rad mount, so then I made tabs for the fan shroud to locate in
And brackets on top
I'm going to weld in a bong on the top left where I removed the filler neck. That will be the red vent to the coolant tank
With that secured I worked on mounting the AC condenser. It locates in the upper tie plate so I put that back in and anchored it there to get the positioning right.
Volvo C30 front seat belt guides turned out to be the perfect size for the anchoring pins on the condenser
I need to decide where I'm going with the transmission cooler. It will be easier to put it under the battery tray. Less air flow though
Next, I worked on the AC hose from the compressor to the condenser. Had to put the headlight back in for that
This is my best solution so far. It's actually not in the way of the bumper even though it appears so. The bumper shock has ears that mount in two the frame rail, but the tube diameter will not really interfere with the hose. I experimented with looping the hose underneath but that got very convoluted.
- Joined
- May 27, 2008
- Location
- Ithaca, NY
Today I drilled for a AC grommet for new hose
Better elbow off the reservoir
AC line could whack the frame, I'll need to notch that as a precaution
Battery cable routing
Or
Finished the welds for the rad support & mounts
Finally, I TIG welded an NPT bung to the radiator where I cut off the filler neck
Better elbow off the reservoir
AC line could whack the frame, I'll need to notch that as a precaution
Battery cable routing
Or
Finished the welds for the rad support & mounts
Finally, I TIG welded an NPT bung to the radiator where I cut off the filler neck
- Joined
- May 27, 2008
- Location
- Ithaca, NY
Smallish things today.
Cut & fitted the quick connect for the new fuel line from filter to FPR
Cleaned up the AC line from the Evap to the Condenser. I can't make one that will occupy as little space as this does, in the area where the will be heater hoses, battery cables etc
Worked on getting the driveshaft out of the way
Remeasured the distance from carrier bearing centerline to trans yoke center (of Ujoint) - still 16"
I added a 1/4" for adjustment when cutting the tube/pressing the yoke. Measured the original shaft, and cut it down to 14.5" from the carrier bearing center. The yoke is 1.75" from the seat flange to the yoke centerline.
Eyeballed the center of the yoke down the tube using the previous yoke markings I had made, to keep the shaft in phase , tapped it in a smidge whilst confirming all was good to proceed
pressed in to seat
Welded. I couldn't do it in one pass, so I had to grind a couple high spots to even the circumference. I had played with the mig settings on the scrap piece of tube to ensure good weld penetration and sufficient wire feed
Forward ujoint done (Volvo 1220786) and new carrier & center bearing pressed on
I decided to work a little late & get the other 2 ujoints done - they were shot
Last snap ring seated
Ready to go
Lastly, I have a conversion yoke to use for the rear joint when I do the Ford 8.8 rear axle conversion
Cut & fitted the quick connect for the new fuel line from filter to FPR
Cleaned up the AC line from the Evap to the Condenser. I can't make one that will occupy as little space as this does, in the area where the will be heater hoses, battery cables etc
Worked on getting the driveshaft out of the way
Remeasured the distance from carrier bearing centerline to trans yoke center (of Ujoint) - still 16"
I added a 1/4" for adjustment when cutting the tube/pressing the yoke. Measured the original shaft, and cut it down to 14.5" from the carrier bearing center. The yoke is 1.75" from the seat flange to the yoke centerline.
Eyeballed the center of the yoke down the tube using the previous yoke markings I had made, to keep the shaft in phase , tapped it in a smidge whilst confirming all was good to proceed
pressed in to seat
Welded. I couldn't do it in one pass, so I had to grind a couple high spots to even the circumference. I had played with the mig settings on the scrap piece of tube to ensure good weld penetration and sufficient wire feed
Forward ujoint done (Volvo 1220786) and new carrier & center bearing pressed on
I decided to work a little late & get the other 2 ujoints done - they were shot
Last snap ring seated
Ready to go
Lastly, I have a conversion yoke to use for the rear joint when I do the Ford 8.8 rear axle conversion
- Joined
- May 27, 2008
- Location
- Ithaca, NY
Not unless I have to. There were no weights on the shaft to begin with and there's not really a wrong way to press the yoke in. Phasing is the most important thing as far as I can see. I'll find out when I drive it, if I have any vibration - in that case I will address it.
The main issue was that to get a drive shaft modified up here I would have to drive an hour and leave the components for 4 to 6 weeks (!)
- Joined
- May 27, 2008
- Location
- Ithaca, NY
Added 1/4" spacers to the engine mount brackets on the block, that resolved the oil pan hitting the subframe. It also reduced the left side manifold contact on the steering column. I'm going to slot the rack mount holes in the subframe, shooting for about 1/4" clearance.
Worked on some unglamorous bits - the front half of the fuel return line - which is metal, had to be replaced, I had a 1/2"-20 JIC male with a barb end, so I used that to convert the forward section to sleeved nitrile
routed it around the booster to keep it far way from the exhaust manifold
Have to move the trans harness, as it stands it means almost no clearance for the EMS harness through he firewall, which I can't move
Took a break & installed an air hose reel , then I worked on the shift linkage
The trans shift arm points down to 6 o'clock, vs. the Volvo setup which was set at 12 o'clock. So I need to reverse the throw
Making a support arm ( I used the wall mount pivot plate that came with the reel I just installed) off the trans mount , the pivot arm will mount to this.
Need to come up with a suitable bushing arrangement for the pivot. Also need to add a brace for the reaction rod (to the right of the shift arm)
Worked on some unglamorous bits - the front half of the fuel return line - which is metal, had to be replaced, I had a 1/2"-20 JIC male with a barb end, so I used that to convert the forward section to sleeved nitrile
routed it around the booster to keep it far way from the exhaust manifold
Have to move the trans harness, as it stands it means almost no clearance for the EMS harness through he firewall, which I can't move
Took a break & installed an air hose reel , then I worked on the shift linkage
The trans shift arm points down to 6 o'clock, vs. the Volvo setup which was set at 12 o'clock. So I need to reverse the throw
Making a support arm ( I used the wall mount pivot plate that came with the reel I just installed) off the trans mount , the pivot arm will mount to this.
Need to come up with a suitable bushing arrangement for the pivot. Also need to add a brace for the reaction rod (to the right of the shift arm)
Last edited:
rallydallas
Active member
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2005
- Location
- Dallas, TX
Yeah I really wish we had a good source of aftermarket headers for this swap.
Looks good!
Looks good!
- Joined
- May 27, 2008
- Location
- Ithaca, NY
Towed the truck to the VCOA National meet around the corner from me - this was Sunday wrap up where I was volunteered for a tech session
I picked up a spare shifter (I measure 35 degree arc from park to 1st) and clamped it in the vise, played around with various pieces of metal to figure out if I could add a link rod and then a bell crank. I just don't seem to have the space for that to work. So, I took one of the Volvo ancillary belt adjuster sliders and played around with that as a slotted drive for the shifter
Sintered bronze bushings for the pivots & the reaction rod adjuster - to get rid of the 'plastic' bushings Volvo uses for all pivot points
Park
Drive
1st
I picked up a spare shifter (I measure 35 degree arc from park to 1st) and clamped it in the vise, played around with various pieces of metal to figure out if I could add a link rod and then a bell crank. I just don't seem to have the space for that to work. So, I took one of the Volvo ancillary belt adjuster sliders and played around with that as a slotted drive for the shifter
Sintered bronze bushings for the pivots & the reaction rod adjuster - to get rid of the 'plastic' bushings Volvo uses for all pivot points
Park
Drive
1st
Last edited:
- Joined
- May 27, 2008
- Location
- Ithaca, NY
Figured out a better reaction rod setup that allows for trans mount failure without yanking on the shifter. Cut down part of the original shift linkage
Welded an ear to the support that accepts the Volvo shift bushing
Bolted that in place to check the shifter. That worked fine, so I added a slotted ear to the lower end to allow me to adjust for the trans gate
After quite some offset and length adjustments, (credit to a Fiat dude for his visuals which helped me figure out which way to go) I have it so it goes nicely from Park to R, N and Drive to 2, with each gear aligning with the detents in the shifter face plate. 1st on the shifter plate is actually 2nd. There is no way to extend it. It's OK, most people I've talked to are fine as long as they get Drive, I just can't hold it in first.
Slotted and raised the support arm relative to the mount plate as the shifter pin was topping out in 1st
Now I just have to weld & clean this up & then possibly modify the trans crossmember, as the link arm is now pretty much in line with it, rather than above
Welded an ear to the support that accepts the Volvo shift bushing
Bolted that in place to check the shifter. That worked fine, so I added a slotted ear to the lower end to allow me to adjust for the trans gate
After quite some offset and length adjustments, (credit to a Fiat dude for his visuals which helped me figure out which way to go) I have it so it goes nicely from Park to R, N and Drive to 2, with each gear aligning with the detents in the shifter face plate. 1st on the shifter plate is actually 2nd. There is no way to extend it. It's OK, most people I've talked to are fine as long as they get Drive, I just can't hold it in first.
Slotted and raised the support arm relative to the mount plate as the shifter pin was topping out in 1st
Now I just have to weld & clean this up & then possibly modify the trans crossmember, as the link arm is now pretty much in line with it, rather than above
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Looks like you are on your way to a workable solution.
What does the OE shifter look like from GM? Used a system or rods/levers or a cable to shift gears? As an alternate solution, surely there are aftermarket floor shifters for the GM 4 speed auto boxes.
What does the OE shifter look like from GM? Used a system or rods/levers or a cable to shift gears? As an alternate solution, surely there are aftermarket floor shifters for the GM 4 speed auto boxes.
corivus
Hey Shiny!!
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2004
- Location
- Tempe, Arizona
This is all looking great! You have been my motivation these last couple of weeks to finally tear down my engine and refresh it and finally get that hot rod cam installed!!
- Joined
- May 27, 2008
- Location
- Ithaca, NY
The GM shifter is an ugly POS
Trying to make that s*** with would be way more complex, and it's cable operated.
I don't want to use any aftermarket shifter because I like the Volvo setup and I want it to stay looking like Volvo.
I'll add pictures later, but I have the whole thing sorted out and it works as it should with the exception of being able to select first which really doesn't matter.
I ended up using all the Volvo bushings and pins, so makes it a little bit easier down the road for servicing. The reaction rod has enough play so that if the tranny mount goes bad it's not going to rip the shift lever apart
- Joined
- May 27, 2008
- Location
- Ithaca, NY
Shifter is all set
With the above offset lever, I get all gears at the shifter. P R N D 3 2 1. 3 falls inbetween D & 2 markers on the shifter, and 1 properly selects 1
I had to add a spacer to bring the trans up to a total of 3/4" above the trans mount, that did the trick. DS alignment is great
Working on a SS hard pipe for the heater return, where it sits on the inner fender is closer to the exhaust than I want a heater hose
With the above offset lever, I get all gears at the shifter. P R N D 3 2 1. 3 falls inbetween D & 2 markers on the shifter, and 1 properly selects 1
I had to add a spacer to bring the trans up to a total of 3/4" above the trans mount, that did the trick. DS alignment is great
Working on a SS hard pipe for the heater return, where it sits on the inner fender is closer to the exhaust than I want a heater hose
- Joined
- May 27, 2008
- Location
- Ithaca, NY
Worked on the 3/4" branch pipe & some wiring today
I have a cold, and definitely low energy
Bead roller tool
Cut a hole & shouldered the branch
Seems to align OK
Only issue is that the coolant tank hoses are all 3/4 reducing to 5/8, so I had to go find a 3/4" elbow, fortunately I had one.
3/4 molded hose will go on the end, to a 12AN swivel
Wiring. Cleaned up all the extraneous stuff as much as possible along the bulkhead & down the inner fenders
Adding a +junction on this side. Guaranteed, I forgot something that will need juice later.
MTA battery fuse panel again
I have a cold, and definitely low energy
Bead roller tool
Cut a hole & shouldered the branch
Seems to align OK
Only issue is that the coolant tank hoses are all 3/4 reducing to 5/8, so I had to go find a 3/4" elbow, fortunately I had one.
3/4 molded hose will go on the end, to a 12AN swivel
Wiring. Cleaned up all the extraneous stuff as much as possible along the bulkhead & down the inner fenders
Adding a +junction on this side. Guaranteed, I forgot something that will need juice later.
MTA battery fuse panel again
- Joined
- May 27, 2008
- Location
- Ithaca, NY
Still sick, so bunch of minor things. Battery post to accommodate the starter & alternator feeds
Junction on left inner fender
TAC module wiring for cruise control
Cruise stalk harness On, Set, Resume/Accel
TAC module connection
Mounted the fan relay on a 240 relay bracket, mounted on the ABS module cover
Welded the 1/4" spacers on the engine mount plates
Fixed the loose window mechanism in the 240
Started wiring a relay to trigger the eFan low speed with AC on. Branch harness to take compressor switched feed.
Junction on left inner fender
TAC module wiring for cruise control
Cruise stalk harness On, Set, Resume/Accel
TAC module connection
Mounted the fan relay on a 240 relay bracket, mounted on the ABS module cover
Welded the 1/4" spacers on the engine mount plates
Fixed the loose window mechanism in the 240
Started wiring a relay to trigger the eFan low speed with AC on. Branch harness to take compressor switched feed.