1994 945 Turbo Ultimate DD Build

[threewagons]

Buchka/CFloMoTo board installed. I'm using a molex connector with a short pigtail to plug into my WS harness.

After making sure it would start, I pulled the ezk back out, broke out the heavy duty glue gun, and potted all the connections with hot glue.

 

[threewagons]

Final result!

 

[lookforjoe]

Very clean install. The only thing I would reconsider is the ground you ran to the tree. I'd feel safer with that head grounded with an eyelet, since your whole ignition could drop out if the spade get flaky on that tree....

 

[threewagons]

Very clean install. The only thing I would reconsider is the ground you ran to the tree. I'd feel safer with that head grounded with an eyelet, since your whole ignition could drop out if the spade get flaky on that tree....

I thought about that but I figured that spade connectors were good enough for the original coil so it should be fine. I sanded the terminal for a good connection and added dielectric grease in the connector. The insulated quick connects are very tight fitting.

 

[Mylesofsmyles]

Nice job on the wasted-spark setup. The thought crossed my mind, though I wanted to leave systems pretty well stock.

Last I did one, it was a wild 16vT conversion. How do you like the results on your stock-ish redblock?

 

[threewagons]

Nice job on the wasted-spark setup. The thought crossed my mind, though I wanted to leave systems pretty well stock.

Last I did one, it was a wild 16vT conversion. How do you like the results on your stock-ish redblock?

The most noticeable improvement is throttle response from a stop and smoother idle, but nothing major.

The biggest advantage to me is eliminating mechanical wear items; the cap, rotor, and shaft seal. Especially considering the scarcity of quality parts now and in the future.

 

[Dvroofer]

Definitely motivated to do my own. Looks super clean. Nice write up.

 

[threewagons]

Replaced my water pump, rear timing cover, and crank pulley. The water pump was leaking from the top seal, but I'm glad I replaced the pump because the impeller on the old unit (Meyle) was starting to rub on the housing.

This is all you need to get a good seal on the seal to the head.

Vacuum filler to speed up the bleeding process. The rag on the air line keeps coolant from spitting all over the place.

 

[threewagons]

I also got this from BBates

 

[GTJordan]

To cut down on the spit from our vacuum bleeder, we have another hose off the bleed that we run down into an empty container or a fenderwell. Just keeps the mess down.

Jordan

 

[threewagons]

To cut down on the spit from our vacuum bleeder, we have another hose off the bleed that we run down into an empty container or a fenderwell. Just keeps the mess down.

Jordan

This one is an older unit that has a porous brass air stone (like a fishtank bubbler) but I could unthread it and put a different fitting in. It's not bad in a situation like this where most of the coolant is drained though.

 

[hessam69]

Two questions, I don't understand the picture with the tool going into the water pump, are you using it to lever the pump upwards? And, doesn't the cooling system bleed itself due to the position of the coolant tank being the highest point?

 

[threewagons]

Two questions, I don't understand the picture with the tool going into the water pump, are you using it to lever the pump upwards? And, doesn't the cooling system bleed itself due to the position of the coolant tank being the highest point?

Yep, it's just a pry bar with a tapered end, makes it super easy to lift the pump upwards, tight to the head.

The coolant tank is the highest point but air will still be trapped if you just dump coolant straight in. Generally you would refill the coolant and let the car run until the tstat opens with the reservoir cap open, then give it some revs to help any residual air escape, then finish adding coolant. This is much faster and you don't need to let the car run, and less messy ime.

 

[threewagons]

New coolant reservoir, glad I caught it before it exploded. New one looks infinitely better!

 

[redblockpowered]

Mine cracked in basically the same way. Excellent for engine bay aesthetics.

 

[threewagons]

Also got the CobraRTP MotronicRT R6 emulator hooked up. I haven't had a chance to tune anything besides the injector constants but the hit tracing works well.

The pins are slightly too wide for the original socket but it's snug. @esmth recommended using a sacrificial socket in between the board socket and emulator, so I'll get one of those soon.

The ribbon cable goes the opposite direction as the ostrich emulator, which makes it easier to come out of the case but harder to find a good position for the emulator itself. I bent the edge of the case backwards for clearance, wrapped the edges in tesa felt tape and loosely reinstalled the lid.

 

[threewagons]

Mine cracked in basically the same way. Excellent for engine bay aesthetics.

you just wanna flex the porsche pink coolant

 

[redblockpowered]

you just wanna flex the porsche pink coolant

Correct

 

[threewagons]

Finally got it on a loaded dyno to tweak the fuel map and add some timing to take advantage of the E85.

Started around 253/310 and started adding timing. I was continuing to gain power and hadn't knocked yet but I got scared and decided to call it good for now.

Final result:
273 HP / 317 ft lbs

 

[threewagons]

Speedometer has an intermittent issue where it runs slow and then drops to zero. It comes back when I smack the dash so it must be something in the cluster. I took the cluster out and cleaned up everything with deoxit, the solder joins had a fair amount of corrosion. I got a little excessive with the deoxit and it bled through the gauge faces so I had to take the cluster apart and wipe everything out. Polished the clear plastic to clean up some scuffs and scratches.