240 Engine Mount Cables

[dbarton]

Put these on with new mounts about a month ago. Will they last or will they explode?
3/16 inch galvanized cable.
Dave B.

 

[GeneralBurrito]

Are those to help stiffen them up?

 

[dbarton]

Are those to help stiffen them up?

Nope, but I suppose they might by a little. Judging by engine movement, there is no stiffening detected.

The intent is to limit movement if/when they decide to separate under stress.

 

[freevolvos]

3/16 should be plenty strong, is it like aircraft control cable

 

[dbarton]

Yeah, it's strong stuff. Just wondering if it'll fatigue eventually and break from flexing endlessly. I'll watch and see.
Dave

 

[blkaplan]

I dont like how you have the SS cable sandwiched between the aluminum and the steel. That will for sure wear out the Aluminum engine mounting bracket

If you want to do something similar. Go around the outside so the mounting surfaces can sit flat.

 

[dbarton]

I dont like how you have the SS cable sandwiched between the aluminum and the steel. That will for sure wear out the Aluminum engine mounting bracket

Only if the cables are loosely sandwiched. They're sandwiched in there tight. There will be no movement of the cable against the aluminum.
Dave

 

[Redwood Chair]

Kewl nicopress.

I'm betting the wire just migrates with the bushing as it sags.

Another TB™ 'solution' in search of a problem?

 

[dbarton]

If you want to do something similar. Go around the outside so the mounting surfaces can sit flat.

That was my original thought. Clamping the cable to a heavy duty eyelette that could be sandwiched on the stud on the outsides, but I thought I'd try this simple idea first.

 

[dbarton]

Kewl nicopress.

I'm betting the wire just migrates with the bushing as it sags.

Another TB? 'solution' in search of a problem?

If it sags, it sags. I'm not expecting it to eliminate that.

My T5 trans mount is one-off custom and is tilted forward (similar to how Volvo originally did it) and should keep that to a minimum. So the engine cannot migrate rearward.
Dave

 

[Redwood Chair]

Diesel mounts and done is the usual solution.

 

[Harlard]

I dont like how you have the SS cable sandwiched between the aluminum and the steel. That will for sure wear out the Aluminum engine mounting bracket

If you want to do something similar. Go around the outside so the mounting surfaces can sit flat.

Dis

Only if the cables are loosely sandwiched. They're sandwiched in there tight. There will be no movement of the cable against the aluminum.
Dave

You aren't taking vibration into account.

Kewl nicopress.

I'm betting the wire just migrates with the bushing as it sags.

Another TB? 'solution' in search of a problem?

Not really. This is a pretty common solution.

Diesel mounts and done is the usual solution.

Sure, if your engine makes stock levels of power. With any torque they deflect enough for the intake manifold bracketry to make all sorts of fun noises as it rubs on other things.

 

[Redwood Chair]

Sure, if your engine makes stock levels of power. With any torque they deflect enough for the intake manifold bracketry to make all sorts of fun noises as it rubs on other things.

At that point your mounts are already torn in half.

Your point again?

 

[JohnMc]

You could also use some Dodge pickup motor mounts, with 'failsafe' tabs:

They're like $5 on RockAuto. I ran one for a long while on the driver side of my 16VT drivetrain. Never broke it. Although I was using a ratchet strap as well.

EDIT: I way exaggerated that price. I just looked, and they're only $1.75. Mid 80's Dodge D100 V8.

 

[GeneralBurrito]

I way exaggerated that price. I just looked, and they're only $1.75. Mid 80's Dodge D100 V8.

What side do these bolt up to on a stock b230f?

 

[Wren]

My bet is that the stainless cable chews through everything it comes in contact with much in the same manner its cousin, stainless AN line, does to everything that it touches.

 

[tintintin]

You could also use some Dodge pickup motor mounts, with 'failsafe' tabs:

They're like $5 on RockAuto. I ran one for a long while on the driver side of my 16VT drivetrain. Never broke it. Although I was using a ratchet strap as well.

EDIT: I way exaggerated that price. I just looked, and they're only $1.75. Mid 80's Dodge D100 V8.

Simple bolt-in?

 

[freevolvos]

This is to prevent the engine from moving around if a mount breaks correct? Looks like a good idea, that same cable used in aircraft control rigging flexes many hundreds of thousands of times,I don't think it will fatigue out. It may rub on things however I doubt it will be an issue

 

[dbarton]

You could also use some Dodge pickup motor mounts, with 'failsafe' tabs:

They're like $5 on RockAuto. I ran one for a long while on the driver side of my 16VT drivetrain. Never broke it. Although I was using a ratchet strap as well.

EDIT: I way exaggerated that price. I just looked, and they're only $1.75. Mid 80's Dodge D100 V8.

I've had a set of those for years on my shelf. Didn't use them. The rubber is as hard and unforgiving as a solid mount. I don't listen to the radio much, but I like being able to converse with a passenger in my car if I want to.

It seems almost no one here is getting the point of this exercise. I want mounts that will properly dampen, yet not be so weak they can't last. If I wanted solid, unforgiving mounts, which I HAVE tried, I would just put in solid, unforgiving mounts.

Point #2 of this exercise is to try something new and original. This used to be Turbobricks, which if you translate into English, means "try something new and original." If I wanted to keep my engine from moving with zip ties or a ratchet strap, then that wouldn't be very original.

If I had a welder and matching welding talent, I would make some great mounts all the way out to the frame rails, VERTICAL, not tilted, maybe using hydraulic mounts and they would likely do everything I wanted.

If the steel cable chews through everything under my hood, then the doubters win. Doubters rarely do. We'll see.
Dave

 

[dbarton]

If I had a welder and matching welding talent, I would make some great mounts all the way out to the frame rails, VERTICAL, not tilted, maybe using hydraulic mounts and they would likely do everything I wanted.

Like this: