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240 Stereo wiring help

Merksgotpop

New member
Joined
Sep 3, 2024
Hello, I recently bought a 1989 240 DL. So happy with it and the projects I’ve been able to do (mostly using this forum...) That being said, can anyone guide me into the depths of stereo/speaker wiring?! It’s has the original head unit, and I’m replacing it with a new. I’m mostly wondering about what the existing wire colors are associated with, and which ones I do and don’t need for the new head unit install. Thanks for reading.
 
I have never done this before, so not a whole lot of wiring skill/knowledge. Thanks for the recommendation. I’ll deff look into a multimeter.
Just found that the factory amp was not hooked up to anything. Assuming previous owner tried to or successfully bypassed the amp. Still struggling though. I can try and upload photos if you are willing to take a look?
Thanks
 
Post a picture of your wiring going into your radio. Have have the wire colors kinda memorized when I see them. Black is ground, red is battery, yellow is ignition. Then there should be 4 pairs of wires, one a sold color, one with a white stripe, example, orange and orange-white. Those will be positive/negative to each speaker.
 
The wiring harness adapter is a good idea to try, but there is a chance it will not work with your cars wiring. I've tried that 4 times in Volvos, it worked once.

If you are just replacing the head unit and the harness adapter does not work (adding amplifiers is a lot more advanced):

- Look for pairs of wires that are the same color, they are the speaker wires. There are 2 per speaker, the main color of the wire will be the same, one of the pair will have a different color stripe.

-Now you only need three more wires, constant power to the fusebox/battery, a wire that powers up with the ignition, and a ground wire. This is where you need a meter or test light (which is easier and cheaper than a meter)
If using a test light, hook the alligator clip to the cars chassis, like a door hinge or other large chunk of steel. Ignition key off. Touch the lights probe to the remaining wires, the one that makes the light go on is constant power. To find the switched wire, turn ignition key on, repeat above test and a wire that didn't previously light up now should. The ground should be brown or black, and try to follow it to where it is screwed to the car chassis, or run a new wire to the chassis.

-Hook up power and ground wires, ignition on, get music playing, start touching the cars speaker wires to the stereos speaker wires. This will tell you which set of speaker wires in the car is for which speakers. Match them all up, done.

Note - please do not use wire nuts in the car, or rely on electrical tape to hold them together. If the power wires separate, there will be blown fuse at best. Get a set of wire strippers and a crimper (or a combo tool with both) and use insulated butt splices or male/female spade terminals.

You can PM me if you need more info.
 
The wiring harness adapter is a good idea to try, but there is a chance it will not work with your cars wiring. I've tried that 4 times in Volvos, it worked once.

If you are just replacing the head unit and the harness adapter does not work (adding amplifiers is a lot more advanced):

- Look for pairs of wires that are the same color, they are the speaker wires. There are 2 per speaker, the main color of the wire will be the same, one of the pair will have a different color stripe.

-Now you only need three more wires, constant power to the fusebox/battery, a wire that powers up with the ignition, and a ground wire. This is where you need a meter or test light (which is easier and cheaper than a meter)
If using a test light, hook the alligator clip to the cars chassis, like a door hinge or other large chunk of steel. Ignition key off. Touch the lights probe to the remaining wires, the one that makes the light go on is constant power. To find the switched wire, turn ignition key on, repeat above test and a wire that didn't previously light up now should. The ground should be brown or black, and try to follow it to where it is screwed to the car chassis, or run a new wire to the chassis.

-Hook up power and ground wires, ignition on, get music playing, start touching the cars speaker wires to the stereos speaker wires. This will tell you which set of speaker wires in the car is for which speakers. Match them all up, done.

Note - please do not use wire nuts in the car, or rely on electrical tape to hold them together. If the power wires separate, there will be blown fuse at best. Get a set of wire strippers and a crimper (or a combo tool with both) and use insulated butt splices or male/female spade terminals.

You can PM me if you need more info.
Thank you so much! Going to jump into this asap
 
I forgot to mention, if your oem stereo is not a standard size, you'll need whats called a DIN adaper kit. The size of a normal aftermarket stereo is called a single DIN. The adapter will be one of the ones in the ebay below. You can use this link at Crutchfield to get the correct one without having to get all the extra crap in the ebay link - https://www.crutchfield.com/m_750/Car-Stereo-Installation-Parts.html just plug in the car and pick top or bottom dash mount.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4052013666...2xbupQ7x190SSuiUc92jH5-nz1R_8AgxoCEScQAvD_BwE
 
You can find a simple wiring diagram for a radio with a built-in amplifier by searching for "1989" here: ozvolvo.org/archive/ see pg. 13
The factory connector is gray, 9-pins, within reach of the lower radio cubby in the center console.
240 radio connector.png
 
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