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244Ti Stage Rally Project

Oh hey so this happened this weekend

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Scrutineer really liked the cage.

Have not updated this - mostly been busy with work the past 3-4 months saving up money for rally season this year.

I quit my job at the Porsche shop I was at due to an ownership change.

The rally car has lived in my friends enclosed trailer the past few months.

Since moving on from the Porsche shop, 3 weeks ago I pushed the E36 project that belongs to my friend into the garage to complete it. Once its done, the rally car goes in the garage for paint and the rest of the work.

The e36 - 1994 325is. I sold him this car 9 years ago after buying it off my friends dad [he got it when we were in middle school, and it was always the car we would try and sneak out and joyride when that friend got his license], we had Evil Genius cage it 8 years ago, I stripped the rest of the car since as well as pulling and reinstalling the engine with all the work we have done to it.

The past 3 weeks I have spent planning the completion of the project for him - installing the suspension goodies, new brakes and the biggest project - a full rewire of the entire car. We hucked the old harness years ago. I found an engine harness at the junkyard from another 94 325is and started with that. I'm almost at the point where I can pull the harness out and can start adding protective sheathing to the looms.

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What's done to the e36

M50....new gaskets and seals all around...VANOS delete, ARP head stud conversion, VAC racing timing chain (new guides too), VAC racing oil pump, VAC pan baffle, VAC oil filter housing with a large Setrab oil cooler and -10 Peterson inline oil filter, VAC underdrive pulleys, Racing Dynamics header, catless mid pipe, B&B rear exhaust, Euro 3.5'' MAF conversion, custom DME tune, ACS delete, solid engine mounts. Added a fuel pump on the drivers side to feed the passenger pump pickup to prevent starvation below 1/2 tank.

Getrag 5 speed...UUC aluminum flywheel, E34 M5 clutch, HD guibo, 3.91 LSD, fully reinforced rear subframe, Bimmerworld solid race shifter, solid trans mount, braided slave cylinder hose

E46 330i front brakes (325mm), E46 325i rear brakes (slightly bigger and vented discs), slotted discs all around, Porterfield R4 pads, custom brake duct setup, braided steel hoses all around

Adjustable 30mm front/25mm rear sway bars, Turner adjustable endlinks all around, H&R front coilovers, Ground Control camber plates, H&R rear race springs and Bilsteins in the back, adjustable rear lower control arms, upgraded rear shock mounts, front and rear shock tower bracing.

I think we are going to mostly be doing Lucky Dog Racing League with this car. Because of the modifications, it does not really fit an SCCA/NASA class that it can be legal or competitive in. I think it will kick ass.
 
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Nice move on the 5x114 bolt pattern. Enough material on the hubs and flanges just to add the new pattern? Running spacers I assume? Subaru M12 studs or Volvo 1/2"? or beefcake M14?
 
tjanson said:
Nice move on the 5x114 bolt pattern. Enough material on the hubs and flanges just to add the new pattern? Running spacers I assume? Subaru M12 studs or Volvo 1/2"? or beefcake M14?
Click to expand...

M12 studs.

No spacers actually - the Methods I found (evo fitment, stocked up and bought 10 from a guy who was selling them for like $120/pop) are ET 15 which is perfect. Had to have some 2mm hubrings made and that was it

Plenty of material between the two sets of holes I think.
 
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tjanson said:
Nice move on the 5x114 bolt pattern. Enough material on the hubs and flanges just to add the new pattern? Running spacers I assume? Subaru M12 studs or Volvo 1/2"? or beefcake M14?
Click to expand...

It really is a good step up. I can buy used Methods all day long for $50-100. We used to go through at least 1 OEM volvo wheel an event. We haven't gone through a wheel in 8 races since switching to the Method VT-Spec wheels.

We use the higher offset wheels and spacers currently, but we can run the 15mm offset wheels by just removing the spacers :)
 
So which cars are the +15mm offset meant for? From what i'm seeing Subarus are +50mm and Mitsubishis are 30-50mm. Is it just for being hella flush?
 
Yeah, I had seen that. The 501 wheel with +48 offset also says it's "ideal" for Subarus and Mitsubishi's and clears the same brakes...so I am wondering what the reasoning is behind the 15 offset. Just increase track width?
 
The guy I bought them from that had a stack of 100 of them got them for an Evo he was putting together. He wanted 30 or something and had to buy 100 from Method to get a good deal.

I don't know if Karl [Buchka] is reading this, but he picked up the wheels for me from the guys house and has a funny story about it.
 
Yeah I am still working on this

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Engine bay is pretty much all together. Cranked it over the other night and got a grumble out of it, but did not go much further because of a fuel leak that I need to rectify, plus no exhaust [plus neighbors at 11 pm]

I still need to wrap a bunch of the wiring in the engine bay too now that I know it all works.

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Dash is all together. I pulled it back out though because I need to find a way to get the steering column a tad more centered as well as rewiring a few things, again.

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Picked up some stuff from Mr Triangles himself a few weeks ago that are going on the car when I swap the new rear end [with 4.56 and Spartan locker!] in once I put some miles on the car with the stock diff [dont feel like driving around to break in the engine/drivetrain with a locked diff on pavement]

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My friend Gary is great with fabricating plastic bits, and we made these nice underbody protection panels out of thick starboard [think kitchen cutting boards]

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I gave Gary a couple of stock door panels and he cut some ABS sheets for me. I still need to fasten them to the door and a few other things [adding map pockets, a grab handle, etc]

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Gary had a scrap piece of lexan he gave me, which I turned into an adjustable spoiler

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I was hoping to get the car ready for Tour De Forest next month but it's not going to happen. I think I could still do it, there's just things to contribute to my anxiety [credit card debt, lack of proper registration to drive it on the road which is kind of neccessary, lack of testing, borrowing a truck/trailer] I dont want on my mind the first event.

I am working 65 hour weeks from now until April. Plan is to get the car ready to the point where I am happy with it, save up a buttload of money, get myself a new truck and trailer [overdue] and run the first two events of the ARA schedule next year on the west coast. If all goes well I am going to try the east coast swing of events and go for running national points.
 
That wang is huuuuuuuuge!

Coming up to Tour de Forest with Al? I'll be servicing for the Clarks. Should be a good time!
 
culberro said:
That wang is huuuuuuuuge!

Coming up to Tour de Forest with Al? I'll be servicing for the Clarks. Should be a good time!
Click to expand...

It's about the same height as one of those late model spoilers....so yeah it's not small

I'm making plans to be up there for TDF, I'll be helping Al out for sure if he makes it up. If not my girlfriend and I will be volunteering.
 
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Finally got the right fittings to adapt a 240 Turbo pump into a later basket [with filter] and finished the rest of the plumbing for the fuel system. Ran the lines in conduit underneath the car attached firmly to the frame rails.

Got all of the electricals hooked up and tested everything. All systems work.

Had a few dumb moments along the way.

I wired the car with a keyed aftermarket ignition switch/tumbler, mostly as a [slight] theft deterrent but also as a source of switched power for LH, the coil and a few relays.

I left the switch in the #2 position and would use the master battery kill to turn the car on. I spent a solid hour or two once I got to testing the fuel/ignition system trying to figure out why the damn fuel pumps would not cycle. The tumbler! DUH. Turned the ignition to off and cycled the tumbler a few times, and there they go.

With that out of the way, I shut the fuel and ignition off and cranked it over til I saw oil pressure. After that I turned them back on and tried to start it. Let out a shotgun blast. I put the engine in the car together eons [well, 3 years] ago. I don't know how or why, but I knew right away I was 180 degrees off.

Fired up nice and quick after that

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Exhaust next, gotta pull the trans one more time, get a diff flange for the mustang driveshaft and finish the brakes. My plates for the car are coming in a few weeks so I want to have it driving when that happens
 
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Been kinda slow with updates.

RMS/housing was leaking like crazy. Had to pull the trans out and reseal it all back up. Not sure why it was leaking so bad - it had new OEM seal and all. Fingers crossed when I start it back up later this week it doesnt leak.

Found out I can fit two spares. Probably going to stick with just having one in at all times.

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Rally cars tend to run hot because of a lack of airflow in the engine bay thanks to the skid plate. Decided to give the hood a little venting. My main concern was finding something that would work and look ok without cutting into the hood structure.

I found a vent off a Jeep to go in the front and center, it rests right in front of the hood structure and right behind the radiator at the perfect angle. It's slightly contoured to pull air up and out of the engine bay. I found some eBay special ABS plastic vents for the sides, my original plan was to just put one over the turbo but I figured why not do both sides since air is getting pushed back from the radiator on both sides.

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If anyone is interested here is the link to the Jeep vent

https://www.amazon.com/Daystar-Wran...=1549223690&sr=8-5&keywords=daystar+jeep+vent
 
Pat give it a real aluminum radiator and cooling will never be an issue.
Lots of room for a Griffin V-8 radiator like I gave the Rallycar. I used a fan clutch and could hear when it was needed. Mostly during transits!
 
JohnLane said:
Pat give it a real aluminum radiator and cooling will never be an issue.
Lots of room for a Griffin V-8 radiator like I gave the Rallycar. I used a fan clutch and could hear when it was needed. Mostly during transits!
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I've got a new plastic tanked radiator in the car now just because I wanted somewhere to put it. During that time I've acquired/reconditioned 3 more Nissens 3-row metal rads. I'll see how the car does in testing soon but I might use a similar recipe to what you are suggesting, and with what I am running in my road race car [which NEVER has had any cooling problems]

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Also I am going to start driving the thing here in the coming weeks and I really want to run the electrical system hard to see if it can keep up [lights, fans, etc.] Thinking if it cant of swapping to a clutch fan over the electric. Or just getting an alternator with more output
 
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