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The exhaust manifold currently in the -92 has been in use 11 years without repairs, so I could say it has served well. And continues to do so. I made it so that tube lenght is pretty close to each other. Shorter and smaller diameter tubes could be better for spooling, maybe I'll try some time.do you have pictures of your exhaust manifold? and where your oil feed runs to?
can you show some of your 9 series builds?
Just like it should. There might be a mild boost creep, lets say 1->1.2bar. But it's so rare to use under 1.7bar With the first manifold flange is divided, though the pipes are so long that it might not really matter.How is your single wastegate behaving with this twin scroll setup. I'm not sure yet if I'm going to go for a double wastegate or single. Is your wastegate flange divided?
On mine I used all the T6 accessories, had to trim the accessory bracket to clear the 960 thermostat housing and then build an extra brace to support the steering pump. May be easier to use a later 5cyl P2 thermostat housing.Hey, I've read the thread and seen you were kinda on and off with power steering Can you do a little write-up on how to fit a B6284 block with B6304 head AND a power steering pump? (a standard one, not electric).
Hey, I've read the thread and seen you were kinda on and off with power steering Can you do a little write-up on how to fit a B6284 block with B6304 head AND a power steering pump? (a standard one, not electric). It seems kinda difficult for me to figure out how these parts may or may not all fit together and what may be needed to make it all work. Gotta tell you, all that info gathering BEFORE buying parts for a swap sure is a headache. But better to do my research now, instead of spending money on parts that don't fit. Thanks in advance! This thread has been a huge inspiration for me and my plans
On mine I used all the T6 accessories, had to trim the accessory bracket to clear the 960 thermostat housing and then build an extra brace to support the steering pump. May be easier to use a later 5cyl P2 thermostat housing.
Always the wider 95->.Do you run the earlier style timing belt and pulleys, or the later wider one with the B6304 head and B6284 block?
Lankku surely has more experience with the WB engines than I do but from the 9 or 10 engines (5 and 6 pots) I have taken apart to this day I can tell you that pretty much all suffered from crank and rod bearings wear. Nothing catastrophic but I wouldn't have pushed these engines much without slapping in a new set of both rods and crank bearings just as an insurance. I also noticed that the piston's oil rings are often clogged. Both of these problem aren't due to the engine design imo but because of poor maintenance meaning oil changes not performed frequently enough and unmaintained PCV system. And I would always try to use the WB variants with the 81mm bores for anything that is going to see some boost.Herr Lankku,
Clearly you have many of us folks Stateside interested in the WB transplants to replace the iron tractor engines.
What is your experience with these used 6 cylinders as far as wear? In your typical build are you machining blocks/heads/cranks & rods, new bearings all around? Or are these WB engines robust and actually demonstrate very little wear in the short block rotating assembly?
Many of the used engines in this country will be found with nearly 250K miles, and most of those are junked due to valve collisions with pistons.
Please detail your experience with the condition of these used WB engines.... for TB posterity. What would you recommend for NA builds, as well as boosted builds for rotating assembly "due diligence".
Thank you sir.
Pretty much all the Whiteblock engines variants on this page:OK, lots of good info there. The rotating assembly bearing checks are good indicators of the health of the crank. Remember, it gets a LOT hotter over here so the US climate probably stresses these engines are bit more than what you see..... and many are likely more abused as well due to ignorant US owners!
As you are recommending for an NA build the 99 and up 2.9L.... and the last RWD to my understanding is the S90 in 98, that means piecing together FWD and RWD bits and pieces for the optimum WB build. Were there not improvements in the RWD engines from 96-98 that makes them advantageous over the earlier versions? I'm aware of the desire for the 81mm bore for boosted engines, but the larger bore should be fine for NA, right?
RWD oil pan and engine mounts is what a FWD engine needs to fit in to a 700/900 chassis. For me using RWD head and intake has been mostly because at the time it has been the most cost effective (and looks more "correct").As you are recommending for an NA build the 99 and up 2.9L.... and the last RWD to my understanding is the S90 in 98, that means piecing together FWD and RWD bits and pieces for the optimum WB build. Were there not improvements in the RWD engines from 96-98 that makes them advantageous over the earlier versions?
Might the same engine with different power rating?I'm not sure but I don't think that we got the 204 hp NA 2.9 engine over here? It looks like it's rated at 197 hp - 210 lb/ft.
Canada too. I got my B6284T at a wrecking yard for $250 canadian bucks. I had briefly considered an LS based truck engine swap, but to get a good one (5.3 aluminum block) would cost a lot, and they're not without their problems. Plus having a turbo inline is as God intended.In the states, as near as I can tell NO ONE pays any attention to these engines and they are languishing in parts yards all around us.