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3D Printed Parts Thread

drunkmonkey said:
https://flic.kr/p/2oEKeka

Im working on a MAF blank that can be drilled/tapped for various sensors and fittings

I am getting ready to microsquirt my 245 and wanted to keep it n/a to learn how to tune.

This allows you to use the stock intake tubing and air box while deleting the MAF.

I plan on drilling and tapping for my IAT sensor and might even design one to fit a GM Map sensor too.

It will be printed out of PA6-CF.
Click to expand...
Nice work. Very handy.
 
drunkmonkey said:
Here is the link for anybody interested:

Smoothing 3D Prints
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I wouldn't trust spot putty to be durable in the long run, it won't flex as much as the plastic, esp in the temperature fluctuations of a car.

A much better alternative would be a 2-part high build primer like this, it's basically sprayable body filler


1687437510549.png


If you don't have spray equipment you could easily use a polyester glazing putty, something like evercoat poly flex which is made for adhesion to plastic and is semi-flexible. I don't trust non-catalyzed products to be durable.
 
I printed those snow caps too but haven't done anything with them yet. You need the M4 nuts and bolts to attach it to the car. The T shaped part is what slides into the vents, turns a quarter turn then allows you to tighten the nut/bolt.

I was planning on just using a spray primer and sanding a bunch to get mine smooth.
 
HiSPL said:
Do you have an account on Thingiverse or any of the other sites? You're doing the lords work over here.....
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I do but nothing is on it yet.

I finally finished my microsquirt conversion and all my printed parts are holding up so far.
I’d like to do more testing before releasing final models.
 
threewagons said:
I wouldn't trust spot putty to be durable in the long run, it won't flex as much as the plastic, esp in the temperature fluctuations of a car.

A much better alternative would be a 2-part high build primer like this, it's basically sprayable body filler


View attachment 22446


If you don't have spray equipment you could easily use a polyester glazing putty, something like evercoat poly flex which is made for adhesion to plastic and is semi-flexible. I don't trust non-catalyzed products to be durable.
Click to expand...
SEM has a high-build plastic primer that is really good for smoothing print lines, available in a big aerosol for $15-20.
I've used it plenty of times on proto projects. Most of the electronics being showed off at CES are basically just 3d printed parts and bondo
 
drunkmonkey said:
I do but nothing is on it yet.

I finally finished my microsquirt conversion and all my printed parts are holding up so far.
I’d like to do more testing before releasing final models.
Click to expand...
Imma need those models....

Currently MS'ing my car.

Well, I'm avoiding it really because its hotter than the devils butthole out there, but yeah. My conversion is coming along nicely......
 
I have access to a high quality 3D scanner now. I want to try and at least create some more STL files of parts. Like the gauge housings. Snow caps would be good but I don't have any on hand. Visor clips. What else would be good to get scanned?
 
CAPT_BLOTTO said:
I have access to a high quality 3D scanner now. I want to try and at least create some more STL files of parts. Like the gauge housings. Snow caps would be good but I don't have any on hand. Visor clips. What else would be good to get scanned?
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Nice!

Have you tried scanning anything big?

The one thing Ive noticed about scan files is that they are pretty much unusable unless you have good CAD software and knowledge on mesh modeling. Yeah you can get a great scan of something and directly print it. But modifying it or using it to design around is much harder.

You have to convert the mesh body to a solid body to get apart you can modify or use for reference.

Here is a example
 
drunkmonkey said:
Nice!

Have you tried scanning anything big?

The one thing Ive noticed about scan files is that they are pretty much unusable unless you have good CAD software and knowledge on mesh modeling. Yeah you can get a great scan of something and directly print it. But modifying it or using it to design around is much harder.

You have to convert the mesh body to a solid body to get apart you can modify or use for reference.

Here is a example
Click to expand...
Yeah I've done some at work. And some of my models from my hand measuring are on Thingiverse. (I've seen them show up on ebay which is frustrating).

The scanner I haven't used yet. I was going to take a few samples parts and give it a try. The scanner is an Einscan Pro HD 3D Scanner. It seems to be suited for medium size to large items. I can't scan a whole car though where it's at so I'm going to try some parts and see how well it works.
 
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