NJGreenBudd
Active member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2013
Phenomenal work, so much talent, keep it up. The white blocks look like fun! That car is so lucky to have found it's way to you , you have given it so much help!
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740 / 242 Going Inline 5 and other projects
- Thread starter juss
- Start date
I too find myself amazed at your ability to recreate stamped steel panels for seemingly anything in your cars. I've done a small bit of that type work in the past, and it certainly wasn't easy. Looking forward to seeing your completed 242.... did you convert a 6 panel back valence to a 5 panel? I'm planning to do that for my 84 242..... I just like the "minimal lighting" aspect of the 5 panel tail lights.
juss
Active member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2018
- Location
- Estonia, Tallinn
Thanks! I do what I can.
I did do that, for what ever reason I also thought that the earlier style taillights look better. They do not fit the Group A theme but I am not going for a true copy of the group A, hence the 5 cylinder swap and everything else
It has been a different week or two recently. Did some customer work. The Range Rover needed every possible fluid change that there can be on that car and when I put new fluid in the transfer case, it decided to leak heavily form the output shaft side. Tore it apart and found that the flange was coated with rust which eventually ate away the seal. I cleaned it with scotch bright and hope that the new fluid that is up to normal level will keep it from rusting.
After that there was another patient, a Volvo 245 that usually resides in our garage over the winter. It suddenly blew the steering rack steel line from one side of the rack to the other. Had a micro hole in the line. For the time being I welded it shut and now it can cruise again. There were some other issues as well with lighting etc but not that interesting.
Finally had time for my own daily too. Went to the yearly inspection and failed miserably again with the freaking hand brake. As this car is an automatic, I never use the hand brake. The P2 platform has horrible handbrakes as is. But now I finally threw in the P80 handbrake pad adjusters so I could turn the tension on using the adjusters themselves, not the cable adjuster in the cabin.
Fingers crossed if I will pass.
Couple of posts back I mentioned that I might buy a bead roller for some of the panels that I have to make from scratch. So I just did that. It's nothing fancy, fairly cheapish and I cheaped out even more by not buying the stand. I made it my self so I could save 200 something euros. Materials for the stand I had laying around in the garage.
And recently I have found myself doing stuff with a new apartment so there was a sudden need for something to tow a trailer with. Building materials, couches, tables and such.
So I wired a new trailer plug for the 740, yet again nothing fancy. Hope it actually works because I did not look at the trailer light last time.
The previous plug was corroded to shit basically.
And one of the projects at home. The storage unit is small and there is a lot of stuff that we do not use all the time, so some shelving was needed to exploit the small space as best as I could.
Hopefully some cash will roll in from some odd jobs so I can order the right connecting rods for the 2.3 T5 block. So I could move forward with the engine rebuild part. For the time being I think I am a little bit tired of panel beating / rust work so I will try to do something else. And do the metal work when I feel like it.
I did do that, for what ever reason I also thought that the earlier style taillights look better. They do not fit the Group A theme but I am not going for a true copy of the group A, hence the 5 cylinder swap and everything else
It has been a different week or two recently. Did some customer work. The Range Rover needed every possible fluid change that there can be on that car and when I put new fluid in the transfer case, it decided to leak heavily form the output shaft side. Tore it apart and found that the flange was coated with rust which eventually ate away the seal. I cleaned it with scotch bright and hope that the new fluid that is up to normal level will keep it from rusting.
After that there was another patient, a Volvo 245 that usually resides in our garage over the winter. It suddenly blew the steering rack steel line from one side of the rack to the other. Had a micro hole in the line. For the time being I welded it shut and now it can cruise again. There were some other issues as well with lighting etc but not that interesting.
Finally had time for my own daily too. Went to the yearly inspection and failed miserably again with the freaking hand brake. As this car is an automatic, I never use the hand brake. The P2 platform has horrible handbrakes as is. But now I finally threw in the P80 handbrake pad adjusters so I could turn the tension on using the adjusters themselves, not the cable adjuster in the cabin.
Fingers crossed if I will pass.
Couple of posts back I mentioned that I might buy a bead roller for some of the panels that I have to make from scratch. So I just did that. It's nothing fancy, fairly cheapish and I cheaped out even more by not buying the stand. I made it my self so I could save 200 something euros. Materials for the stand I had laying around in the garage.
And recently I have found myself doing stuff with a new apartment so there was a sudden need for something to tow a trailer with. Building materials, couches, tables and such.
So I wired a new trailer plug for the 740, yet again nothing fancy. Hope it actually works because I did not look at the trailer light last time.
The previous plug was corroded to shit basically.
And one of the projects at home. The storage unit is small and there is a lot of stuff that we do not use all the time, so some shelving was needed to exploit the small space as best as I could.
Hopefully some cash will roll in from some odd jobs so I can order the right connecting rods for the 2.3 T5 block. So I could move forward with the engine rebuild part. For the time being I think I am a little bit tired of panel beating / rust work so I will try to do something else. And do the metal work when I feel like it.
juss
Active member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2018
- Location
- Estonia, Tallinn
A month has passed already, time does fly by. Now that I have some things situated (moved to a new place + searching for a new job. Which might end happily soon enough) I can start some progress with the 242.
I said previously that I am tired of panel beating, but here I went again. The trunk floor has been unfinished way too long and I want to get it out of the way before I will move on to the passenger side repairs. I thought about making completely new panel using the bead roller, but as this piece is rarely be shown to the public and in the end covered with raptorliner for durability then I did not care at all and tried repairing the old piece. Just to get a feel for the bead roller, trying to replicate old patterns rather then going with my own design. In hindsight it would have been easier to make the new panel but what the heck, I learned a lot and that's what matters. It is not welded into the car but you get the gist.
This is what I started out with. Lots of rust around the center hole on the top and on the bottom.
Made a simple X and tried to fit it to the existing piece.
Here the middle is already done and other patches mid way through. It had some rust...
And to give myself something more interesting to do for a change I started fabricating the seat mounts. The old seat base was cut out and from the get go I did not want to layer a separate sheet on the new floor just to keep the rusting opportunity to a minimum. So I made a simple CAD drawing and sent it out to get laser cut. 16 plates, which 8 of them got nuts welded to the back side so they would act as mounting points for the cross sections under the seat.
Here driver side is 98% welded. I practiced TIG but ran out of argon so had to leave one joint unfinished for now.
And with the seat. I am happy with it. Now on to the passenger side to repeat and then I can go forward with the passenger side floor, sill and arch repairs.
I said previously that I am tired of panel beating, but here I went again. The trunk floor has been unfinished way too long and I want to get it out of the way before I will move on to the passenger side repairs. I thought about making completely new panel using the bead roller, but as this piece is rarely be shown to the public and in the end covered with raptorliner for durability then I did not care at all and tried repairing the old piece. Just to get a feel for the bead roller, trying to replicate old patterns rather then going with my own design. In hindsight it would have been easier to make the new panel but what the heck, I learned a lot and that's what matters. It is not welded into the car but you get the gist.
This is what I started out with. Lots of rust around the center hole on the top and on the bottom.
Made a simple X and tried to fit it to the existing piece.
Here the middle is already done and other patches mid way through. It had some rust...
And to give myself something more interesting to do for a change I started fabricating the seat mounts. The old seat base was cut out and from the get go I did not want to layer a separate sheet on the new floor just to keep the rusting opportunity to a minimum. So I made a simple CAD drawing and sent it out to get laser cut. 16 plates, which 8 of them got nuts welded to the back side so they would act as mounting points for the cross sections under the seat.
Here driver side is 98% welded. I practiced TIG but ran out of argon so had to leave one joint unfinished for now.
And with the seat. I am happy with it. Now on to the passenger side to repeat and then I can go forward with the passenger side floor, sill and arch repairs.
juss
Active member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2018
- Location
- Estonia, Tallinn
Hi, long time no see. Haven't really been doing anything on the 242 between the last post and now. But just ordered some parts to start making up the lost time.
I have been busy with other cars non the less.
I'll try to make it in a chronological order but in the end it does not matter. Maybe somebody takes interest in the other stuff also.
But if i look at the pictures that I have taken, then one element I have still produced for the 242 as well. The rear bumper bracket that I cut off some time back. Just tried to replicate it, haven't welded it onto the car.. Other side has to be made also.
C70 that is my customers was also in this last week and many times before. During autumn there was one night event where the customer wanted to go, but to make it a little bit better vision wise he wished that I installed some Hella Rally lights on to the spare bumper. So a bracket was made, some holes drilled and the spare bumper painted with a rattle can to matt black. Fortunate enough that we exchanged the OE R bumper out, because he had an accident and smashed the front end a little bit. But here is a look before the accident. I think it looked cool with the whole rally vibe.
The bracket itself was mounted straight to the bumper beam.
After that was time to prep the Range Rover Classic for winter. We found some more rust issues on the passenger rear part of the car. Initially the seatbelt mount was the concern but it turned out that there was some serious rot. And that was caused by some stupid repairs that somebody had done before. I am not perfect by any means and eventually everything will rust but riveting aluminium strips against bare steel just calls out for corrosion to happen, really quickly. But never mind, just rambling.
Here you can see on the right inner panel there is a angle strip of aluminium which was riveted in. Plus the rot on the lower corner.
The seatbelt mount was just loose, but moving lower there were serious holes.
Patches here n there.
Better than before.
Wheel well from the wheel side.
Clean slate
The repair piece was quite intricate, and as I do not have an english wheel then I have to make do in making these kind of repair panels from separate pieces, welding them on the table and grinding as flush as I can.
All seam sealed, primered.
The seat belt portion of the wheel well also painted. Used paint matched rattle can (I am not a painter by any means) and it actually turned out decent enough. When the car gets driven then the dust will equal out the paint job even more
Rattle can black for the inner parts.
To be continued in the next post with the 740...
I have been busy with other cars non the less.
I'll try to make it in a chronological order but in the end it does not matter. Maybe somebody takes interest in the other stuff also.
But if i look at the pictures that I have taken, then one element I have still produced for the 242 as well. The rear bumper bracket that I cut off some time back. Just tried to replicate it, haven't welded it onto the car.. Other side has to be made also.
C70 that is my customers was also in this last week and many times before. During autumn there was one night event where the customer wanted to go, but to make it a little bit better vision wise he wished that I installed some Hella Rally lights on to the spare bumper. So a bracket was made, some holes drilled and the spare bumper painted with a rattle can to matt black. Fortunate enough that we exchanged the OE R bumper out, because he had an accident and smashed the front end a little bit. But here is a look before the accident. I think it looked cool with the whole rally vibe.
The bracket itself was mounted straight to the bumper beam.
After that was time to prep the Range Rover Classic for winter. We found some more rust issues on the passenger rear part of the car. Initially the seatbelt mount was the concern but it turned out that there was some serious rot. And that was caused by some stupid repairs that somebody had done before. I am not perfect by any means and eventually everything will rust but riveting aluminium strips against bare steel just calls out for corrosion to happen, really quickly. But never mind, just rambling.
Here you can see on the right inner panel there is a angle strip of aluminium which was riveted in. Plus the rot on the lower corner.
The seatbelt mount was just loose, but moving lower there were serious holes.
Patches here n there.
Better than before.
Wheel well from the wheel side.
Clean slate
The repair piece was quite intricate, and as I do not have an english wheel then I have to make do in making these kind of repair panels from separate pieces, welding them on the table and grinding as flush as I can.
All seam sealed, primered.
The seat belt portion of the wheel well also painted. Used paint matched rattle can (I am not a painter by any means) and it actually turned out decent enough. When the car gets driven then the dust will equal out the paint job even more
Rattle can black for the inner parts.
To be continued in the next post with the 740...
juss
Active member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2018
- Location
- Estonia, Tallinn
Now on to the 740.
I went to the inspection and surprise surprise, the guys were afraid to let me pass because of the +T and other modifications, so i thought to avoid future headache I would refresh the old carb engine and put it back. So I could just have occasional fun in the snow and on ice tracks. There is not much power as the carb still needs tuning, but in second gear in fresh powder it ripped decent enough.
And I think I have to rename the car. Until now I have called it the crocodile but now it should be piston slapper 9000. Valve lash was mostly between 0.35mm other than 2 where it was a little too tight but that should not make it as loud as it is. But the pistons did have some movement when I took the original head off.
The old engine before - sat some year and a little bit more so dusty crusty.
After some refresh, got new seals everywhere, slight ball hone on the cylinders, new con rod bearings, timing belt and etc... Oh, lapped the valves and changed out the valve seals also.
Actually tried out some aluminium welding on something that would be used (the intake pipe to the filter), not perfect by any means but it is holding together...
Will see what the inspection guys will say now. This was mostly done in two weeks. The engine "refresh" in a week and the other week I swapped it out.
I went to the inspection and surprise surprise, the guys were afraid to let me pass because of the +T and other modifications, so i thought to avoid future headache I would refresh the old carb engine and put it back. So I could just have occasional fun in the snow and on ice tracks. There is not much power as the carb still needs tuning, but in second gear in fresh powder it ripped decent enough.
And I think I have to rename the car. Until now I have called it the crocodile but now it should be piston slapper 9000. Valve lash was mostly between 0.35mm other than 2 where it was a little too tight but that should not make it as loud as it is. But the pistons did have some movement when I took the original head off.
The old engine before - sat some year and a little bit more so dusty crusty.
After some refresh, got new seals everywhere, slight ball hone on the cylinders, new con rod bearings, timing belt and etc... Oh, lapped the valves and changed out the valve seals also.
Actually tried out some aluminium welding on something that would be used (the intake pipe to the filter), not perfect by any means but it is holding together...
Will see what the inspection guys will say now. This was mostly done in two weeks. The engine "refresh" in a week and the other week I swapped it out.
juss
Active member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2018
- Location
- Estonia, Tallinn
Parts that I ordered for the 242 arrived. Actually pretty quickly, but if I think of it then they came from Sweden so only a ferry ride away.
Mainly I made the order for the bigger and more expensive parts where from I could get the black friday discount.
New single mass flywheel, Bosch 68mm throttle body for DBW, some aluminium weld on AN bungs for the fuel rail and oil sump, AN bulkhead fittings for the firewall, flanges for the HX40 turbo etc. Also a OE volvo hella pedal came from the junkyard. So now I can do some other things also besides rust work.
Oh and soon I should order H--profile rods from ACM and a Maxxecu Sport. Looked and hoped that there will be some discount deals for those as well but nope.
On the 740 news, it passed the inspection basically with flying colours. The only problems what the inspection guy found was that the front anti rollbar tie rods are shot and the rear passenger side window crank is missing.
But here comes a question. Initially the 740 had the same engine with a carb, I had never driven it like that, or if I did I don't remember much. But when I now redid the same engine I swapped out the head for one in better condition and I left the T cam in it. Don't know what was in it before. But it really struggles to go past 35mph. In first and second gear it's a ripper, loads of low end torque but dead after that.
Should the carb be retuned? Before that I think I will try the cam that came with this engine as it is quite simple to do but I know nothing about carbs. The one on the 740 is a Stromberg cd175.
At the inspection the dude has to measure CO and HC, which were 0.5% and ~120 units respectively.
Mainly I made the order for the bigger and more expensive parts where from I could get the black friday discount.
New single mass flywheel, Bosch 68mm throttle body for DBW, some aluminium weld on AN bungs for the fuel rail and oil sump, AN bulkhead fittings for the firewall, flanges for the HX40 turbo etc. Also a OE volvo hella pedal came from the junkyard. So now I can do some other things also besides rust work.
Oh and soon I should order H--profile rods from ACM and a Maxxecu Sport. Looked and hoped that there will be some discount deals for those as well but nope.
On the 740 news, it passed the inspection basically with flying colours. The only problems what the inspection guy found was that the front anti rollbar tie rods are shot and the rear passenger side window crank is missing.
But here comes a question. Initially the 740 had the same engine with a carb, I had never driven it like that, or if I did I don't remember much. But when I now redid the same engine I swapped out the head for one in better condition and I left the T cam in it. Don't know what was in it before. But it really struggles to go past 35mph. In first and second gear it's a ripper, loads of low end torque but dead after that.
Should the carb be retuned? Before that I think I will try the cam that came with this engine as it is quite simple to do but I know nothing about carbs. The one on the 740 is a Stromberg cd175.
At the inspection the dude has to measure CO and HC, which were 0.5% and ~120 units respectively.
juss
Active member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2018
- Location
- Estonia, Tallinn
On the 740 front:
Yesterday had some time to kill, so I changed out the "T" cam for the original "A" cam. As always when doing something thinking that it will go without a hitch, there is something. After putting in the other cam and checking valve lash and then once again taking the belt off, the distributor shaft moved. So there was some fiddling around with the distributor but after that started right up. It is better now power wise (knowing that is a carb engine) and valve lash wise, still some hesitation and misfire but I am quite sure it is related to some ignition components.
When I need some other parts I will add some ignition parts to the order and go from there.
Basically now have to wait for more snow to come to have some fun with this piston slapper 9000.
Yesterday had some time to kill, so I changed out the "T" cam for the original "A" cam. As always when doing something thinking that it will go without a hitch, there is something. After putting in the other cam and checking valve lash and then once again taking the belt off, the distributor shaft moved. So there was some fiddling around with the distributor but after that started right up. It is better now power wise (knowing that is a carb engine) and valve lash wise, still some hesitation and misfire but I am quite sure it is related to some ignition components.
When I need some other parts I will add some ignition parts to the order and go from there.
Basically now have to wait for more snow to come to have some fun with this piston slapper 9000.
juss
Active member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2018
- Location
- Estonia, Tallinn
Well hello, almost two months have passed. Freaking hell how time flies. On the 240 front things have been mostly quiet. Suffering from some serious motivation issues regarding that car. Body work is really tedious and time consuming and tinkering for an hour or two on week nights mostly consist of driving to the shop, taking out the tools and later putting them all back so no progress there. But refusing to let it go and maybe it will be finished eventually.. Just need to find some motivation.
One small thing I discovered from the picture folder.
242 Firewall panel that I started plugging up. Actually added some mounting hardware for a DBW pedal also, but that needs more modification, the pedal is too far forward near the firewall and looks out of place in regard the other pedals.
But on other fronts I have been quite busy.
In the start of December customer was involved in an accident, fortunately the insurance accepted my offer and I got to fix it up again.
Don't mind the fingerprints on the hood.
Otherwise I have for most of my time tried my hand at learning aluminium tig welding. On the 700 I did a couple of welds on the intake pipe but since then I ordered some aluminium sheet, tube, pipe etc for some potential projects.
First off started making my own fuel surge tank - for the 700 probably. More on that later.
Workshop looked disgusting at some point. I have cleaned some since, also the Range Rover is not occupying any space currently..
One more learning project for aluminium welding. FWD T5 oilpan that I am trying my hand at converting to RWD use. If i succeed, then I might use it for the 700.
Here I have added the PCV vent tube back to the pan and one sheet for the rear pan section. I am currently waiting for different tungsten and filler rod to try more.
And now, why am I thinking about T5 swapping my 740? I just took out the B230 turbo which was in it, replaced it with the NA B230 that I refreshed. I don't know what I was thinking, but the carbed b230 is a dog. So freaking slow, in snow it can do somethings but no emotion. B230 Turbo was fun, but lacked something..
As there will be one life altering event in near future. I need to reevaluate some things. Sooo to really have fun with one of my cars and actually drive it, I thought that I will convert the 740 to a T5 engine sooner than later. Because that car does not need any mayor work besides the engine swap and things connected to that.
I have aquired lots of parts for the 240, but those will not go into use for a long time still, because of bodywork. So why not put them into use.
Engine internals will be budget as fuck. Stock pistons and rings, stock connecting rods with used bearings from a B5234T3 which look brand new, new main bearings, new gaskets etc.
I will use the Ecumaster Black that I had on the B230 turbo, just will make a new wiring harness. HERE! Maybe somebody can give some insight, can I use stock T5 ignition coils? Maybe even somebody has the pinout for them?
It will get the same 16T turbo, with japanifold manifold, 600X300 intercooler and so on.
Goal is to actually register the engine swap in our Transport Administration so I would not have to worry about police and yearly inspections.
Yesterday I started on the process.
The B5244T3 block which will go to the 740
Had some hone marks still left on it even.
After a slight clean up hone
Assembled the cleaned up pistons, connecting rods and rings.
Connecting rod bearings look good enough that I took from a B5234T3 block
It's a mess I have loads of B230 stuff in the back room, I need to inventory those and put them up for sale, because most likely I am done with 4 cylinder stuff for now and it might be wise to liquidate those.
I will continue on with compiling the engine. I need some shims between the cylinder bores, to put the head on.
Also I have compiled a list of missing parts that I still need to order, those will be ordered this week probably. Need to check the gearbox input shaft to order a correct clutch disc. And after that mostly wiring stuff for now probably.
If the engine is in eventually then I will see what else I might need. Probably loads of fuel fittings and such.
EDIT.
Already fount the pinout for the OE style ignition coil:
Pin 1: Ecu signal
Pin 2: Not in use? Bosch states that ECU ground
Pin 3: Engine ground
Pin 4: 12V
Link to bosch sheet: https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/co...df/Data Sheet_68299915_Ignition_Coil_PS-T.pdf
Volvo wiring diagram: http://svxc.dk/pdf/WiringDiagramsV70-2002.pdf
One small thing I discovered from the picture folder.
242 Firewall panel that I started plugging up. Actually added some mounting hardware for a DBW pedal also, but that needs more modification, the pedal is too far forward near the firewall and looks out of place in regard the other pedals.
But on other fronts I have been quite busy.
In the start of December customer was involved in an accident, fortunately the insurance accepted my offer and I got to fix it up again.
Don't mind the fingerprints on the hood.
Otherwise I have for most of my time tried my hand at learning aluminium tig welding. On the 700 I did a couple of welds on the intake pipe but since then I ordered some aluminium sheet, tube, pipe etc for some potential projects.
First off started making my own fuel surge tank - for the 700 probably. More on that later.
Workshop looked disgusting at some point. I have cleaned some since, also the Range Rover is not occupying any space currently..
One more learning project for aluminium welding. FWD T5 oilpan that I am trying my hand at converting to RWD use. If i succeed, then I might use it for the 700.
Here I have added the PCV vent tube back to the pan and one sheet for the rear pan section. I am currently waiting for different tungsten and filler rod to try more.
And now, why am I thinking about T5 swapping my 740? I just took out the B230 turbo which was in it, replaced it with the NA B230 that I refreshed. I don't know what I was thinking, but the carbed b230 is a dog. So freaking slow, in snow it can do somethings but no emotion. B230 Turbo was fun, but lacked something..
As there will be one life altering event in near future. I need to reevaluate some things. Sooo to really have fun with one of my cars and actually drive it, I thought that I will convert the 740 to a T5 engine sooner than later. Because that car does not need any mayor work besides the engine swap and things connected to that.
I have aquired lots of parts for the 240, but those will not go into use for a long time still, because of bodywork. So why not put them into use.
Engine internals will be budget as fuck. Stock pistons and rings, stock connecting rods with used bearings from a B5234T3 which look brand new, new main bearings, new gaskets etc.
I will use the Ecumaster Black that I had on the B230 turbo, just will make a new wiring harness. HERE! Maybe somebody can give some insight, can I use stock T5 ignition coils? Maybe even somebody has the pinout for them?
It will get the same 16T turbo, with japanifold manifold, 600X300 intercooler and so on.
Goal is to actually register the engine swap in our Transport Administration so I would not have to worry about police and yearly inspections.
Yesterday I started on the process.
The B5244T3 block which will go to the 740
Had some hone marks still left on it even.
After a slight clean up hone
Assembled the cleaned up pistons, connecting rods and rings.
Connecting rod bearings look good enough that I took from a B5234T3 block
It's a mess
I have loads of B230 stuff in the back room, I need to inventory those and put them up for sale, because most likely I am done with 4 cylinder stuff for now and it might be wise to liquidate those.
I will continue on with compiling the engine. I need some shims between the cylinder bores, to put the head on.
Also I have compiled a list of missing parts that I still need to order, those will be ordered this week probably. Need to check the gearbox input shaft to order a correct clutch disc. And after that mostly wiring stuff for now probably.
If the engine is in eventually then I will see what else I might need. Probably loads of fuel fittings and such.
EDIT.
Already fount the pinout for the OE style ignition coil:
Pin 1: Ecu signal
Pin 2: Not in use? Bosch states that ECU ground
Pin 3: Engine ground
Pin 4: 12V
Link to bosch sheet: https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/co...df/Data Sheet_68299915_Ignition_Coil_PS-T.pdf
Volvo wiring diagram: http://svxc.dk/pdf/WiringDiagramsV70-2002.pdf
Last edited:
Appelsap
Active member
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2020
- Location
- Netherlands
Correct. Pin 2 is not used on turbo cars.
Connector: Bosch 1928404745 or TE 368162-1. I bought them with pins, so I don't know the part number for the pins.
302ftw?
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 7, 2010
- Location
- Goshen, NY
@juss would one of those life altering things be a baby? They seriously reduce the amount of garage time. Although, it's kind of a decreasing exponential curve. The first one takes the most time, then you learn how not to sleep, and suddenly you have access to hours of uninterrupted time at the expense of your ability to function the next day. Works out great for kid #2, we will see if this theory holds for kid #3.
MadDog_945
Våga Vägra 8V
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2006
- Location
- Lower Saxony
subbed !
man you are real good in sheetmetalwork ! i drag my hat for you
man you are real good in sheetmetalwork ! i drag my hat for you
adomz
I own!
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2010
- Location
- Lost in Wales...
Damn that workshop! Wish i had one third of it lol... Great work buddy!
juss
Active member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2018
- Location
- Estonia, Tallinn
Thanks, most likely I will use some old plugs. If I can find them in my wiring pile.
subbed !
man you are real good in sheetmetalwork ! i drag my hat for you
Self learned and just started doing, thinking after
But now maybe more thinking before and doing after. The shop is not only occupied by me, there are other peoples projects as well.
This week there is no more garage time, maybe some on sunday but will see. Other wise this week I tinkered with the idea that I need a rolling cart for my new tig machine and the argon bottle, so I could weld near the lift or on the bench.
Unfortunately forgot to take a picture yesterday of that but that's fine I guess. Can display it later.
Also yesterday received some needed stuff.
Most importantly perhaps Ecumaster Black flying lead harness with plugs, also some welding materials. Tig cups, gas lens, tungsten etc.
Today I will put the clutch and injectors into order. Going with Sachs SRE 618 pressure plate and Sachs BMW E30 228mm sprung disc and S60R OE injectors.
740 is not going for huge power numbers so I think it will be fine. Can upgrade later if need be.
adomz
I own!
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2010
- Location
- Lost in Wales...
Nice work! I so want a tig welder
juss
Active member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2018
- Location
- Estonia, Tallinn
Got some time in on sunday, not much but hey at least something...
Finished up the cart for the tig welder. Simple design, spot for the gas bottle, welder it self on top shelf and two additional ones where I can store some consumables and the foot pedal. I was almost ready to put the shelf panels in then I decided that the middle and bottom ones are visible and could use some bead rolling. So that was done as well. Looks a little bit more professional.
And after that I took on the oil drain for the 740 engine. AN10 aluminium bung welded to the block. Not the prettiest weld, but it will hold. I hope.
Also went on with my learning project. Added a pipe from the filter housing to the outside. There I can also weld a AN10 bung so the oil can travel through an oil cooler.
Be advised, it's just a learning project. To get a hang of aluminium welding. If the part it self does not work out I am totally fine with it
And then I ran out of gas, so until next time.
Finished up the cart for the tig welder. Simple design, spot for the gas bottle, welder it self on top shelf and two additional ones where I can store some consumables and the foot pedal. I was almost ready to put the shelf panels in then I decided that the middle and bottom ones are visible and could use some bead rolling. So that was done as well. Looks a little bit more professional.
And after that I took on the oil drain for the 740 engine. AN10 aluminium bung welded to the block. Not the prettiest weld, but it will hold. I hope.
Also went on with my learning project. Added a pipe from the filter housing to the outside. There I can also weld a AN10 bung so the oil can travel through an oil cooler.
Be advised, it's just a learning project. To get a hang of aluminium welding. If the part it self does not work out I am totally fine with it
And then I ran out of gas, so until next time.
juss
Active member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2018
- Location
- Estonia, Tallinn
Small update. Yesterday started assembly on the short block. Cleaned everything up, oil squirters installed, main bearings installed, crank cleaned, lower crankcase cleaned and then I discovered that the supplied sealant which comes with the kit is plain old black silicone. No bueno. Searched today for the real stuff but it seems nobody offers the Volvo style anaerobic besides Loctite 510 which is seriously over priced here (almost 70€ for 50ml). So reached out to a friend who works at a dealership and ordered the right stuff from him. Hopefully I will have it by the end of the week and then I can continue compiling the engine.
As the engine went on hold, then I continued on with the oil pan. It actually is starting to look something resembling an oil pan. Don't mind the PCV drain, I will shorten it and probably the oil pickup needs some tweaking as well. It was quite hard to hold the oil pickup in place and tack when everything is in the way
As the engine went on hold, then I continued on with the oil pan. It actually is starting to look something resembling an oil pan. Don't mind the PCV drain, I will shorten it and probably the oil pickup needs some tweaking as well. It was quite hard to hold the oil pickup in place and tack when everything is in the way
juss
Active member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2018
- Location
- Estonia, Tallinn
For what ever reason it's especially good to see when a Volvo box appears in the office. Even if there is only some sealant in it.
Lets move on. The pink stuff in hand I continued with the engine. Cleaned and checked visually that the crankcase bolts were okay and not over stretched. Which is pretty rare I think for these engines, as they mostly are not torn down several times. Can happen, but the chance is small.
Those were okay, so there was nothing else than give everything a final clean and then apply the gabagooo.
Some assembly lube for the rotating parts, don't know when the engine will see a first start.
Crank in, all bolts torqued down.
And threw in the pistons while I was at it.
Next up I have to install the custom shims made out of 4 sets of feeler gauges as one budget whiteblock should have. And then the head can go on. Followed by the rest.
Also the first clutch set that I ordered was completely wrong. Fault was mine because I did not check the input shaft on the gearbox. That one is already sent back, and the new one should be here tomorrow perhaps. Along with some electrical connectors for the wiring.
Lets move on. The pink stuff in hand I continued with the engine. Cleaned and checked visually that the crankcase bolts were okay and not over stretched. Which is pretty rare I think for these engines, as they mostly are not torn down several times. Can happen, but the chance is small.
Those were okay, so there was nothing else than give everything a final clean and then apply the gabagooo.
Some assembly lube for the rotating parts, don't know when the engine will see a first start.
Crank in, all bolts torqued down.
And threw in the pistons while I was at it.
Next up I have to install the custom shims made out of 4 sets of feeler gauges as one budget whiteblock should have. And then the head can go on. Followed by the rest.
Also the first clutch set that I ordered was completely wrong. Fault was mine because I did not check the input shaft on the gearbox. That one is already sent back, and the new one should be here tomorrow perhaps. Along with some electrical connectors for the wiring.
Jack
junkman
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2011
- Location
- The Ass Cheek Of History
Last time I checked you can get the same sealant from ford (aka old step dad for Volvo) for much cheaper
244tiCanuck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2004
- Location
- Edmonton
I've been using Permatex flange sealant for the last 15 years or so with no issues.