740 / 242 Going Inline 5 and other projects

[juss]

Last time I checked you can get the same sealant from ford (aka old step dad for Volvo) for much cheaper

Maybe, have not looked into it so would not know. Friend is actually in a dealership where both Volvo and Ford are represented, I would think that he would have suggested it if it was cheaper. But I can't complain, got the Volvo lettered one for a really good price.

I've been using Permatex flange sealant for the last 15 years or so with no issues.

Noted, if I can find it and it has a smaller cost I might give it a try with the next engine. But I did found Ajusa brand stuff for a decent price and with a couple day lead time. Cannot say if it is any good. Product code for the Ajusa one for reference - 75000400

Got some packages what I was waiting for. The clutch came, 707 pressure plate and Tenaci 10x35 spline organic sprung clutch disc. I hope it is a bit better for daily driving. Also some connectors for the wiring loom, T5 specific. Coolant, crank and cam signal, etc.

Friday did not have not much time, so did a couple of welds on the oil pan. Starting to like what I am seeing, there is loads to learn but taking into the fact that the flange is seeped through with oil and cannot be completely clean in the end I cannot be mad about that.

But going on. We had our independence day yesterday and I put it to good use, as it is a free day of work.
Installed the shims, head gasket and got the head all torqued down. Went without hiccups, but had to get a new tool. Angle gauge for 1/2 breaker bar for the last 130 degree torque.

Not an MLS gasket, for cheapness and this engine will not be high hp, so no need. I hope.

Most of yesterday I compiled the water pipe underneath the exhaust manifold. The bend part from the water pump was actually done in sections months ago just to practice TIG welding and it shows. But relocated the overflow port, added turbo coolant feed/drain and the cabin heater port to the rear of the head. Should be room for everything.
Have to leak test it somehow before, don't want to put coolant into it and discover it leaks, as it is a pain to weld after that. Have done that before...

But those who have done the T5 swap, what did you do with the ports for the oil cooler which is near the water pump in the block, PCV coolant ports in the back of the head, thermostat housing and under the inlet manifold? The inlet manifold one is for PCV vaccum? Sorry stupid questions but at times I get confused.

Until next time.

 

[juss]

Threw down yesterday after an saturdays hangover to semi finish up the oil pan. Got it mostly welded up so I could do the initial leak test with water. Nothing major appeared, couple of pinholes here and there where the old and new material meet up. Need to weld those pinholes up, add couple of AN bungs for the oil cooler lines, threaded insert for the oil temp gauge and a new hole for the dipstick. For the dipstick I have to put the pan on the engine and figure out the position because I don't have the 960 dipstick tube neither the dipstick itself. But that should not be that complicated.
And the oil drain I stole from the original pan, cut it up, trimmed to size, cut a hole in the new pan section and weld it up. Went well enough.

Some welds turned out really good in my opinion, some were bs from the get go because I had to fill up some gaps

 

[juss]

Smaller update. Slowly have been cleaning some parts, painting them and compiling the engine further.
The cam cover got some wirewheel action, because did not want to harm the inner machined surfaces with glass bead blasting. After that it got a slight aluminium tone paint to make it look OEM. Maybe it will last a little bit longer and wont oxidize as fast.

After it was painted it went on the head. All surfaces cleaned one last time, sealer added and slapped it together. Used the specialty tool.

Oil pump and the cam sensor housing got same cleaning treatment, oil pump I left alone. Did not paint it or anything. Just cleaned, inspected, new seals in and on to the engine. Cam sensor housing I will paint still.

After the oil pump I wanted to get the front of the engine together, new waterpump installed, new crank and cam seals and new timing components. But for just as my luck would have it, the tensioner pulley was wrong. For a newer engine it seems. Sooo I ordered the right one hopefully and then I can continue with that.

To do something further I cleaned some more. Bare aluminium parts look pretty decent after glass bead blasting. The thermostat housing probably will get some modification, because I want to get an extra sensor in it for the instrument cluster. I am not really sure if I can use the OE T5 one for the 740 cluster. Maybe somebody knows better?

 

[skjarlie]

for 7/900 you can use the volvo 960 thermostat (mounted against the firewall on engine head) for the original instrument cluster. Not sure if it works on 240 instruments

 

[juss]

Not much has happened since the last post, but slowly trying to do something.
Regarding the T5 swap for the 740 I have acquired some smaller parts, fittings and such. Mostly weld consumables for the surge tank, turbo oil drain etc. Oh and finally got the right throw out bearing for the clutch, came with a new lever.

Code of the throw out bearing set for future reference

I am thinking that I could fit the 740 OE style coolant sensor for instrument cluster into the T5 thermostat housing, need to add a little bit of meat to the existing port and re tap it. Need a right tap for that...

And because the exhaust collector and turbo exhaust housing do not match up in the rwd configuration I started making an adapter flange for it. Space the turbo away a little bit to get nuts and bolts figured out. I cannot modify neither because nuts would not fit by any means. Will see how this turns out.
Because the metal shop does not sell 10mm thick stainless in an reasonable amount then I opted for 5mm thick material that I welded together. There will be two of these and then a small piece of pipe in between.

On another subjects then one XC90 V8 came in for a small exhaust correction. It had a rear end crash and also front Y section was completely rotten. So I replaced the Y section, added a rear V-band for ease of removal and adjusted the rear tips.
The exhaust is actually made by me, but years ago when I was starting welding and did not have access to a TIG welder, so I actually laughed when I saw my previous welds but we all evolve in time.

V-band welds now which aren't perfect by any means but better than the MIG ones beside it

And a next job is lined up already. The saffron C70 which I have shown before will get KW V3 suspension. Just need to source some OE parts to compile the front shocks.

Until next time!

 

[brendon_ak]

Nice work, well done!!

 

[soclosenotnear]

Amazing build thread. Read through it from start to finish. My 242 needs you, lol.

 

[juss]

Nice work, well done!!

Thank you

Amazing build thread. Read through it from start to finish. My 242 needs you, lol.

It's mostly done by purely trying, if i look back at some of the things I have done I would do it differently now, but that's the process of learning I guess. Still lots to do, just need to find some motivation.

But this time around no 240 nor 740 updates. Customer work needs to be done beforehand to acquire cash for the projects. Even if I don't need to buy anything currently. I think...

I got the KW's installed on the C70, actually looked great from the get go. Got the height pretty much perfect first time around. The rears went as low as they can go without removing anything and fronts adjusted just by luck. Will post pictures if it's completely finished. That was the easy part.

The exhaust fabrication was a little bit more trickier. Part before the rear axle was easy, took time to weld but still easy compared to the rear section. It is tight everywhere. Near the axle, near the body, near the fuel tank, near the spring. I completely underestimated how long it would take. And in haste I warped one v-band flange... Need to replace that, probably will be a pain. But otherwise looks great I think.

The old rear muffler actually fell off when I loosened the hangers

 

[juss]

Last weekend kind of was a relaxing time combined with a surprise by my uncle who gifted me a really decent welding mask. With a really wide view and super clear vision. Now I can actually see how the weld puddle acts during welding But when I was there we finished up the spacer piece for the turbo. In RWD configuration the 16T wont mount up to the japanifold. Could drill the existing holes and use nuts/bolts but cant put the nuts behind the flange, there is just no room. So I made this spacer.. It is also angeled up, looks better in my opinion. The spacer then is barely visible from the top because the turbo is closer to the head.
I just hope this turbo setup clears the strut tower.

Then yesterday had a couple of hours during the evening to tinker. Reclocked the turbo center section and the cold side, so I could make a new turbo oil drain. The old one which was on the 16T leaked pretty badly and looked shit as well.

Should be 2 straight fittings and some AN hose to finish the drain. Also can see the spacer piece.

New vs old - made the new one from stock t5 one, just cut and sectioned for it to go where I want it.

Next up I need to modify the wastegate bracket - then it can mount up to the original spot and also weld up some holes in the compressor housing where the wastegate was mounted before me.

 

[juss]

Got some work done on Saturday. Small steps forward. Which actually feels good..
Thought that I will wait with the wastegate bracket relocation and cold side housing orientation. Will do those when the engine is on the car. Easier to see if there will be any interference with the strut tower.

But to keep things going I took on intake modifications. First of all when the engine was in the 242 engine bay, then I saw that the vacuum port was almost too close to the brake booster and the line route would be funky. Appelsap maybe was the one who relocated it on top of the intake. So I did the same. Does not look horrible, but could be better.
Also added the flange for the Bosch electric throttle body, some extra vacuum ports for WG, boost control solenoid, blow off ect.
Some brackets were removed and the dip stick mount relocated also. Seems like the stock T5 dipstick will work fine.. Checked the level before with water.

And as I was in the groove of aluminum welding then I quickly added 6AN bungs to the fuel rail.

Now I need to clean the intake somehow and throw some paint on it to make it newish. Probably I will not sandblast it, because it is a PITA to clean if something gets inside.

Now is the part where I have to start ordering some stuff again. I need one tap for the 740 coolant sensor port, lots of AN hose ends, hose, etc. But I should really map it out so I could order most of it in one go.
But otherwise I think I am almost at the point where I can start wiring on the engine.

 

[juss]

Still have not ordered things that I need but in the meantime I got some smaller things done.
Painted some of the aluminium parts that I have previously cleaned up and prepped in other ways.

But before I painted the thermostat housing I did some ghetto lathe work on the 740 instrument cluster temp sensor. Used a drill, zip tie and a file to turn some material down. Rethreaded it to M12 and the thermostat housing as well. Seemed easier than sourcing the right tap size of the sensor. Expensive as hell too. If it works it ain't stupid...

It is a little bit crooked but screws in nicely enough.

Then I started bolting on everything that I could. So to see the end length of wiring for all the injectors, coils, sensors etc. So on went the thermostat housing with new thermostat, accessories bracket, inlet manifold with the bosch e throttle body, injectors, coils (used ones for mockup), crank sensor, cam sensor and so on.
Actually starting to look like an engine.

With the starter approx. in the right place i discovered that the dipstick tube needs to be modified slightly. But that's easy.

 

[juss]

Not the biggest update but still something.

Last week I finally gathered myself together and ordered some stuff that's needed for continuation.
A tap and die set so I can tap the oil pan for the threaded oil filter bung or what ever it is called.
Label printer, so I can mark out every connection on the new wiring harness.. Hated on the last harness that I had to remember where what went, especially if the connectors mostly are identical then it gets annoying super fast.
Transparent heat shrink tubing, ordinary heat shrink tubing.
Electrical connectors for stuff that will remain in the cabin of the car (drive by wire pedal, extra gauges, alternator light etc.)
Bunch of zip ties, because everybody needs them...
And most importantly, double open barrel crimp connectors. Very handy if you need to splice together ground/power wires in your harness, without soldering.
Locally I ordered some AN10 fittings and PTFE hose for the turbo drain and at the same time I can test out the oil cooler ports as well, which are underneath the crank pulley. Just to confirm that the fittings will fit or if I have to extend out the adapter with some tubing.

One of the things that I could do was to mount the alternator. I could've used the original one, but I did not like the fact that it has a one way clutch, welding the clutch would have solved the rotating issue but the cooling fan inside would still rotate the wrong way. So I ordered a earlier style alternator and made some mounts for it to bolt up. Will see if it will start flinging belts or not. Opting for this kind of belt routing might create an issue regarding the contact area on the alternator pulley but that's for future me to figure out, if it even becomes a problem.

Very simple mount underneath the alternator.

Upper one is just extension of the mounting surface basically.

And in preparation of doing the wiring I have tinkered in the computer and excel so I could see where which wire goes and what it does. Mostly to have all the information in one place. Also will help in the future if there is some kind of issues.

There are some things that I want to add still. Like the wire colors, so I would not look through the whole bunch if I need something.

 

[juss]

For a while now I have tinkered with the wiring. Tedious stuff if you want to do it half decent. Having a bit of trouble getting the 12v power distributed but will see in the end how will it work.
Thought it to be best to start from coils and injectors, labeled them accordingly. The Chinese label maker surprised me actually, bluetooth version so I can type to my phone and then print. But the label itself is not that good. On one coil I got the heatshrink too hot and then the label disappeared But otherwise works well.

Yesterday dealt with some of the smaller stuff which have been in the back of my mind. First of all finished the turbo oil drain.
OE drain modified > AN10 PTFE hose. Was actually amazed how easy the hose was to make. From youtube I got a sense that it is a bigger pain.

There are not much options when it comes to sensor placement on a T5 engine or I have not done enough research. But I wanted to have the original oil dummy light in the dash, oil pressure in the ECU and an extra oil pressure gauge where I could actually look if everything seems fine. Dummy light - is for dummys, wont look at a computer screen always and if I opt for some kind of a tablet solution that still can go empty at some point. So the fool proof thing is an actual gauge.
So here comes my creation. It's a solid aluminium block which at first had 2 sensors in it. One for fuel pressure and one for oil pressure. I cut it in half, drilled out from the center, welded it back together and filled one inlet hole. So now it has one inlet and 2 sensors. Worked out great. I think

Then I finished up the oil cooler ports under the crank pulley. At first I thought to weld the 2 bungs on to the plate that I made, but feared that the fittings would be too close to the pulley. So I added some pipe and then the AN10 fittings. Now I can easily fit a belt between the pipes and crank pulley if needed. Welds could have been a little bit better but there was not a lot of room after I fitted the first extension.

Welded shut two ports on the engine. One on the right is for the oil pan and the other one is a cooler port near turbo oil feed. Neither of them are needed for my application.

On the back of the head there is a coolant port which was used for the PCV heating. That I closed off with a shortened bolt and a copper washer, but doubled it down to be used as a grounding point.

Now if I think about it hard enough there is only the wiring remaining and oil filter thread to the oil pan. Need some smaller heatshrink tubing for single wires and a tap for the oil filter thread which I am waiting to come in the mail.
After that I probably need to roll the car in so I could start fitting the engine and trans.

 

[juss]

This last weekend because I had no heat shrink tubing and the 3/4 16 unf tap had not arrived also, then I thought that I will take some time off from the usual day to day stuff and go to the countryside and visit my uncle. The weather was really good so I took the bike out. Last autumn I got my license and this spring I bought my new toy, a 1999 Honda CBR 600F. Really well taken care of, has plenty of power for me as a novice bigger bike rider (way back when I used to ride dirt bikes). One minus is the riding position, at some point I have to take breaks on a longer ride just to rest my back and hands. But other than that really fun.

But on the way back I acquired the said heat shrink tubing from a store which is on the border of the town where I live. I don't go to that side of town often but as I was coming back I went by there. So now I can continue with the wiring.
Also, the tap arrived when I was away. So yesterday I took up the challenge. Welded some extra material to the oil pass through hole on the pan and then redrilled and tapped the new smaller hole. It actually is slightly crooked, just a hair. And out of center. But I threaded the oil filter on. The threads on the filter itself and the pipe both are quite loose so it wiggles enough to make perfect contact. And the seal stayed also on the mating surface all the way around. In my book that is called lucky success.

But still before I bolt the pan finally down, I'm going to use it when I will mock up the empty engine block in the bay to make the engine mounts. It's easier to move an empty block around than the fully fitted one

 

[juss]

The last three weeks I have been busy and at the same time not. Had a vacation for two weeks. Visited Romania, went to the mountains, to the beach and couple of cities, oh and almost forgot. Saw 12 bears in the mountains. Beautiful country beside the Black sea. But horrible how everybody is a smoker...

Right after getting back, I went to work for one day and then got Covid, again. I thought that had disappeared some where no body would find it. That took me out for a whole week. And now here I am. Yesterday I was well enough that I went to the garage. Did last of the wiring that I could do outside of the car.

Hope it works out, first time making a full harness my self, a lot to do better in the future but otherwise I am satisfied if all things operate as they should. Everything engine related is integrated into the harness. Coolant temp to the instrument cluster, starter, cooling fan etc.
Car side will be finished when the engine is in the car and I can determine the proper length that I need.

Now there is nothing else to do beside to roll the car in, yank the redblock out and start mocking up the T5. Already started by making one of the engine mount plates on the engine.

I can finish up the other side also but after that probably my daily driver will take precedence. Yearly inspection is coming up and I have butt load of stuff to do before that. Some of them are really needed for the inspection and some just to clean the car up a little bit.
I have just been really lazy with this car, but 413k km's on it and it is starting to show. (250k miles)
Most of the parts are already on order and hopefully I can knock most of it out during this week. Have to use the bike to get to work and back

1. Fuel door hinge - broken
2. First anti roll bar rods need to be replaced
3. Basic maintenance, filters and oil. Timing belt and water pump. Serpentine belt
4. Rear shocks blown
5. Front coilovers have creaking support bearings - probably also blown
6. Brakes need some cleaning and parking brake cables need replacing because last year I failed almost the inspection because of one being seized
7. Thermostat housing is leaking in between the head
8. Front crank seal might be leaking a wee bit
9. Power steering hose leaking
10. Front wings need to be replaced and painted
11. Rear quarter panels need some love - rolled them years ago and now it is showing some surface rust.
12. Original cat is loose inside, makes a stupid creaking noise when the exhaust moves. It has driven me nuts and just a couple days ago when I was doing the preliminary inspection actually finally found the issue (before it was intermittent).

Non priority stuff which just annoys me.

1. Speakers - some of them are blown
2. Door panels have aged and the glue has let them go from some places, so need to glue those back together
3. New floor mats needed
4. Passenger side and middle dashboard vents are busted and somebody drilled a hole to the pencil holder in front of the gear shifter, so those need to be ordered from the srapper

Hopefully then the S60 will serve me a couple of more years.

Also I am getting really excited and motivated about the 740 T5 swap, there is not a lot that needs to be done to hear it run and actually drive it again.
Just to get my head clear and set a better vision I'll try to list out the things that need to be done.

1. Eject the B230A
2. Run back the car side of wiring into the cabin (starter, coolant temp, oil dummy light etc)
3. Mock up the T5 and fabricate engine mounts, also new gearbox mount probably
4. Mount the final engine
5. Finish up the engine wiring harness, car side
6. Fuel system (mount FPR, run new AN6 lines, surge tank, in tank pump, high pressure pump)
7. Exhaust system (Full 3" stainless, with one muffler and race cat)
8. Mount and plumb oil cooler
9. Coolant lines - probably need to modify the coolant pipe on the engine a little bit more + cabin heater hoses
10. Intercooler needs to be mounted and intercooler piping
11. Test the wiring outputs/inputs
12. Set up basemap + first crank?

Currently can't remember anything more, but those probably will come when I am doing stuff. Bulk of it is there.

 

[juss]

I think I was a bit over ambitious with the S60 renovations
Over a couple of days I got some things done.
Parking brake cables replaced - my thoughts when doing that, why the f**k Volvo ran parking brake cables under the carpet, not that it's hard to get the carpet up, but I won't be removing front seats just to guide the cable through. Was a slight pain but got it done.
All brakes dismantled, cleaned, lubricated what needs to be lubricated and painted some bits so it would not look so shitty rusty.
Also replaced old rear coilover shocks with Koni some kind of sportier version shocks. As I have not tracked this car in years and probably wont also, so those will do fine...
Front coilovers got replaced as well with my buddy's old (maybe 2 year old) BC Br coilovers. Just had to switch out the lower bracket (getting the old ones off the coils was a pain once again).
Now it should pass the inspection. But the maintenance remains to be done.

Under this kind of a sunset/dimmer light it actually looks really good. Needs a good wash though.

 

[juss]

Yaayy, S60 passed the inspection. The guy said that it's in really good condition mechanical wise. Which was good to hear. Only one comment was made: "It's way too loud and I can hear you every day when you speed by" Okay, duly noted, some others have said that also but I love the 5 cylinder rumble.
Still need to do the maintenance but the weather is so unpredictable currently so it will have to wait a little bit ( I dont like to get soaked by rain on the bike).

But on the 740 front. Yesterday made the last picture of the engine bay with the b230a lump. For one to put it up for sale at some point when the 5 cylinder is official and running and just for memories as well.
Actually wanted to get it started and drive it on to the lift, but the fuel had traveled back to the fuel tank and the battery died before it could pull up the fuel. At some point I realized it and pulled it up manually but it was too late, for a second it coughed and then no electricity.

And to get something going again, I started with the downpipe. Scrounged a OE flange, gutted the old exhaust pipe out of it and started with pie cuts. Probably have to modify it to actually fit in the engine bay, but bulk of it is there.
I'll try to get some bigger cups for the tig welder, not enough gas coverage...

Hopefully, during the weekend I will get the b230 out and the T5 mocked up in the engine bay. To be extra optimistic then I would like to get engine mounts at least tacked but will see.

 

[juss]

Well, could say that the weekend was successful. Main goal was to get the new engine mounts tacked up but I got them actually finished.
On Friday evening I started out by getting 740 in the garage. It actually started up great when I pulled the fuel up and battery was full. Maybe 1 crank? And it fired right up. Which was a little bit unexpected but still cool.

It did not take me long, maybe a couple of hours to yank the carb b230 out of it. Took everything out which I wont need any more.

During Saturday I went to see some drift cars at a semi local event, was a good time. After that on the evening once again I put together the mock up block with the oil pan and gearbox. So I could start on the mounts.
Here on this picture it was just put there. No adjustments or anything made.

My initial thought was, that maybe I could use the OE lower mounts, but fairly quickly I saw that those wont work at all. So then began the manufacture of lego parts.

And on Sunday I had a full 6 hours in the garage. Completed up the lower mounts and after that just had to measure some pipe, notch it and weld.
Added gussets for precaution.

Really happy with the result. Welds are mostly looking good also. The only thing that I did not account was that the passenger side mount is angled in a way that if I want to just remove that side, it might be locked due to fact that the engine is angled to that side. But if need be, the engine can be lifted so I could remove it. When removing the engine as a whole then the mounts can be left on without any issues.
Before going home I went through a self service car wash where I washed the oil pan as best as I could. Some touch up with brake cleaner in the garage and then I can put it on the engine for good.
So that's actually what is remaining. I hope that this week during evenings I can get the engine completed with the oil pan, flywheel and clutch assembly + the gearbox. Also I have to paint the new mounts. And then I can drop the engine in for good.

 

[juss]

Succeeded in this weeks goal.
Got the mounts sandblasted and painted - used a generic matt black spray.

And then the bigger thing. Took the engine down from the stand, got the oil pickup tube and pan, rear main seal, flywheel, clutch and gearbox installed. And the engine in the car. Fits great in every way in my opinion. Only thing is that the turbo looks way too small and it sits really far back. Downpipe clearance is tighter than I expected.

Got some smaller bits ordered and will be picking some of those up today. Some fueling stuff and exhaust bits.
For this weekend I actually don't have any specific goals. But will see what will get done.

 

[juss]

This weekend in my opinion went great. 50Cent was in town, so on friday evening got to enjoy a concert. Was surprisingly good actually.

But on saturday morning I got straight to work. Initially I was like a headless chicken. Did not know which way to run. But to get to the groove I started by releasing the front brakes. They had seized slightly during it's vacation outside for most of the winter. Knowing that at some point I have to push the thing inside the garage, not seized brakes are the way to go.

Installed some smaller bits, like the oil temp sender in the oil pan, gearbox output flange etc. Just to get some stuff done since it already is on the lift. In doing that I discovered an issue, for what ever reason I thought that the output flanges on a zf trans are interchangeable. But the seal behind the flange would not allow it. I ordered one that I thought was right but got a seal for a different box. Retired that idea and went for a adapter flange route. That is ordered from speeding and is on it's way.

After the smaller bits I thought and looked at the power steering. It seemed like the high pressure line to the rack has the same size fitting that the five cylinder pump has. So I had nothing to lose, heated up the weird 180 degree bend and took it back to 90 degrees'ish so it would fit to the pump decently. Great success, if it does not leak.

Other half of the day went to fabing up the downpipe. I am not really sure what I am going to do with the rest of the exhaust yet. Just made the downpipe to mount the o2 sensor for maybe an initial start?! Really happy with the result. Took a while, had some pieces already made before but those needed some clocking and cutting for it to fit right.

On Sunday I got a nice surprise. Hopped into the S60, started it up and it misfired like a mofo. Confused I quickly shut it off. Thought for a second and started it up again. Misfire gone. Okay, weird.
But I heard a strange whistling sound. Drove to my buddies house as he wanted me to take a look at the Range Rover. After that I got to the garage and found this.

Vacuum hose from the intake to the back of the engine was split completely. Replaced that.
But to fast forward to this morning, it still misfired like crap initially. No codes or nothing. Will have to look into it.

And yesterday first half of the day I did completely nothing... Other half of the day, cleaned the garage for a bit, to make it a little bit better.
After that decided, okay. I'll try to get the coolers mounted. But in my ordinary fashion I did not go the easy route.
So I made a whole new upper rad panel, just so that the radiator upper mounting tabs would be at the correct distance. Maybe quicker version would have been to lengthen the tabs, but when it was turbo b230, I did not like the solution and always thought that I should make a better looking panel to replace the ugly plastic + the longer radiator mounting tabs.

So here it is. Got some things done, quite a lot even I think. But there are still some things to do before I get to slide this thing
During these things I finally had a thought that if I see or remember something that I have to do then I should write it down immediately.

It's in Estonian, but you get the point.