745 into Pickup

[lookforjoe]

This was a good thought. I don't know what level of corrosion resistance this gives but it's probably better than bare metal.

In the collision repair world we use a weld-through panel bonding adhesive like 3m 8115 for corrosion protection around spot welds (and additional strength).

Make sure you finish up the repair with cavity wax, it'll wick into every little nook and cranny inside the rocker that paint/weld-thru doesn't.

Nice work

I used Lord Fusor for structural seams such as the roof seam - this just needed to seal the seam - I took a pic through one of the inner rocker openings, you can see that when spot welding it squeezes out & seals the pinch. I will also spray cavity wax in there to finish the job

 

[lookforjoe]

Got a pair of 2012 C30 seats cheap. These will replace the S2000 seats. Nothing wrong with the Honda seats, however I find these the most comfortable & they actually flip forward, unlike the weak flip of the Honda seats. I've ordered beige leather upholstery for them, from Ridies.com

Added another chassis brace to the C30 - this one ties the forward control arm mount points together

Added the R design upper brace recently

 

[lookforjoe]

Looking at houses around Ithaca, NY. Saw a bunch yesterday & today, one we thought was the most hopeful turned out to have too many structural issues. So far, the one that we like the most is a little on the outskirts of the distance from downtown that we wanted.

1860's, has enough rooms for us & my Mum, but would need some internal re-arranging to give her her own space, which has to be the ground floor. Garage is big enough for me to work with for starters. needs some work on the outside, but nothing crazy. Sits on 4 acres. Still have to look this one over inside, didn't have time for this one today.









small building on the left is a smokehouse.

 

[lookforjoe]

Worked on running conduit & 12/3 wiring for the receptacles. Dug a 18" deep 20' trench along the South side for it. Still have to dig a trench along the West side

 

[lookforjoe]

Dug the rest of the trench around the West side, and run the conduit. I had forgotten to order more 12/3 solid THHN, so I ran a snake so I can pull through the wire through tomorrow.





connected the first leg to the feed off the receptacle



1st post in place, I'll remove the cap to feed the second run through



Started packing the trench & grading the ground away from the patio - this area has always held water.

 

[lookforjoe]

So, of course there were problems. I should never have buried the conduit before I had the actual wires run through it. I had to dig up the West end & cut the conduit so I could feed the 12/3 through the bends. I ran fish tape from the other end, and then tied the 12/3 to it & pulled it back to the 1st post.











Tomorrow I have to install the 2nd post here, then I'll fill the trench

 

[lookforjoe]

Filled the trench & graded the ground. Wired the receptacles today

West side (end of run)



South side



With sliding cover down.

 

[lookforjoe]

Did the engine breather box/ oil filter housing and vent hoses on a friends 2013 C30 - 100K miles. The intake gasket has reed valves, and the runners have vent passages that unify the breather system, so I always remove & clean all that out as part of the operation.

 

[DET17]

What did you decide to do with the 1041 rear end in your truck conversion? Run it, or convert to 8.8 or ? Recall the discussion, don't remember your decision.

I'm hoping to 6 cylinder WB my 90 745.... planning to find an early 960 rear and swap it completely for taller highway gearing.

 

[lookforjoe]

What did you decide to do with the 1041 rear end in your truck conversion? Run it, or convert to 8.8 or ? Recall the discussion, don't remember your decision.

I'm hoping to 6 cylinder WB my 90 745.... planning to find an early 960 rear and swap it completely for taller highway gearing.

I still haven't located an Explorer 8.8. We are also planning on moving several hours drive upstate in the next year - looking for suitable homes that can accommodate us and my mother - so I'm not in any rush to collect heavy parts I'll only have to transport at the mo.
Basic plan is just to get the V8 drivetrain in before any move, then deal with the rear as needed. I want the option of being able to drive it hard (burnouts, etc), so I'm still assuming the 8.8 is in my future.

 

[NJGreenBudd]

Ithaca is beautiful, spent a lot of springs up there fishing and camping at Taughannock Falls and Lake Cayuga. That looked like a pretty cool setup with the detached garage.

I laughed when I read the post about the fish and the 12/3, you might have gotten 14/2 through those corners but I expected problems when I saw it, next post made me chuckle. Live and learn. Looks like the pad is coming along nicely, never ceased to impress me the quality of your work.

I'm looking for a lower gear ratio 8.8 but seems like 3.73 is about as low as they come with LSD in the Explorers, Im not 100% but I think I'm going to buy a set of extra 3.27 gears and swap them over for my 240 LS build but I'm a little confused cause I'm not sure what tires will be on it or how to calculate the proper ratio with the 4L80E. I want to do the axle swap as part of the build since we will be taking it to the track right away.

 

[lookforjoe]

In a bit of a funk the past couple weeks - missing teaching. Been chipping away at work on the house, and odds & ends on the cars.

Today I took care of the handbrake cables on the C30, and the worn AC clutch. Handbrakes was a little more complex than the instructions, as all the AWD components are in the way.

exhaust, AWD prop shaft carrier, heat shields removed to access

new cable set in place

reinstall all the panels, prop shaft carrier & exhaust, adjust cables at calipers. Then on to the AC. New magnet in place, getting ready to install the pulley & actuator plate.

 

[lookforjoe]

Working on installing the C30 seats. The rails are about 2" narrower than the 740 rails. Not enough to be able to fit brackets on the outside of each rail, and be able to get bolts through. I set the seat position based on the inboard rail, drilled a mount hole through the rail to secure the inner rear corner. After that I was able to square & level the seat, fabricate mount ears for the other three corners, attach the seat belt reel, and get the DS seat bolted in.

Tried to get the memory seat module to operate - it wants CAN I/O, which I can't provide

So, I stripped the seat down & hardwired the fore/aft motor to allow me to set the mount points

Rail offset to the inside allows me to fit mount brackets

Spacing on the inside, clears console

Using the 350Z seat rail mount remnants that I cut off when installing them in the 280Z

C channel for the forward outer, wanted a reasonable overlap section onto the rail for welding

Tab cut from the stock C30 rail mounts for the forward inner

Belt reel fitted with minor mods

Notch outer seat panel to clear belt reel

So the tricky part of this install is going to be the wiring. I have to figure out how to bypass the CAN controller aspect & power the switches / relays so that the stock switches will operate the seat. I don't really care about not having the various memory options.

Googling ways & means of either emulating(?) the CAN signals, or bypassing it all, I found this thread on Matthews Volvo Site. Pretty helpful, difference for me is the Seat module is more complex than that earlier one from an S60. Simply bypassing the ground relay is more complicated.

I used Google Lens to look up the relays on the board -

with that I drew out the relay schematic, and used my multimeter to determine the switch connections. I don't know which is (-) & which is (+) on the connected pathway illustrated at the bottom

Any suggestions welcomed!

 

[lookforjoe]

Wrapped this up (finally). I tried a number of ways to connect the center pins of SW4 to the fore/aft motor (A2), without much success. I found that spiking the center pin to the adjacent power pin would bring the circuit alive - but only long enough to move the motor briefly. I repeatedly spiked the connection, to see how long I could get it to hold function. Doing this ultimately killed whatever switches the power to the switch grid, which turned out to be what was needed, as with that I added a jumper from the switched power feed at the top of the card to the switch power grid & now all the switches work. I guess I basically lobotomized the board

 

[lookforjoe]

Worked on the passenger seat today.

Cut off factory mount ears



spacer for inner rear, to allow clearance for the fore/aft shaft hold down



removed the occupant sensor & pad



grid is reverse of drivers side





With the module powered, I momentarily shorted the for/aft pin to the adjacent power pin & let the smoke out . I discovered that was all that was necessary - no bridge wire was needed on this one, all switches operate as they should.





modding the seat belt reel mount locator



stripped the old upholstery



modded the outer cap/ switch retainer to clear the seat belt reel. Welded the three seat mount brackets I made in place to match DS layout

 

[302ftw?]

Killer work! Wiring drives me bonkers and I know I wouldn't have enough patience to replicate. Kudos to you!

 

[blkaplan]

props for figuring out the seat stuff... who would have known that intentionally breaking the thing would allow it to work.

 

[lookforjoe]

Killer work! Wiring drives me bonkers and I know I wouldn't have enough patience to replicate. Kudos to you!

Thank you.

props for figuring out the seat stuff... who would have known that intentionally breaking the thing would allow it to work.

It seems they just add layers of complexity with all the CANbus crap. I guess in this case one just has to kill enough of the brains to allow the basic switching to remain operative. I was assuming the ground side would be what needed attention - that's been my experience with other software controlled items like the f'ing fog lamps.

Tidying up the pass seat install - had to add spacers to lift the rails to allow the fore/aft drive to clear the floor seat tub. Moved the wiring harness to the top side of the cross plate to prevent potential snagging on the carpet.

Started on the upholstery install - the seat cushion side retainer wasn't sewn properly, so I had to stitch that up with strong thread

Fitted the seat back cover on the passenger seat back. The seat cushion is not installed here - just sitting on the frame. I went with light grey & oak, as I have grey elements in the interior, and will likely get more over time, the grey interiors were more popular than beige & hold up better.

 

[lookforjoe]

Passenger seat finished & installed. Still do have to heat & smooth the leather some more

The beige isn't the same as the Volvo beige, but the interior is faded in different ways. The alternative beige they had was too deep

After that I worked on the driver's seat rail spacers and the wiring cleanup

The bolster needed some repair where the cover was worn through

 

[corivus]

Your making me want to do this on the 740. I don't need more projects...