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745 into Pickup

Your making me want to do this on the 740. I don't need more projects...
They are more comfortable than 740 seats... :-)

Finished up the driver's seat & installed. Have to futz with the seat module some more - I clearly didn't fully lobotomize it like the passenger one.
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The covers look like they are loose on the bolsters, is that how it is, or is it just the pictures?

I think I saw someone using a steamer on job like this to take out the wrinkles and "shrink" the covers tight.
 
The covers look like they are loose on the bolsters, is that how it is, or is it just the pictures?

I think I saw someone using a steamer on job like this to take out the wrinkles and "shrink" the covers tight.
he said this earlier "Passenger seat finished & installed. Still do have to heat & smooth the leather some more" I think he means he's going to steam them to shrink to fit.

They are more comfortable than 740 seats... :-)

Finished up the driver's seat & installed. Have to futz with the seat module some more - I clearly didn't fully lobotomize it like the passenger one.
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Damnit stop tempting me... maybe once my electric ps fully installed.
 
The covers look like they are loose on the bolsters, is that how it is, or is it just the pictures?

I think I saw someone using a steamer on job like this to take out the wrinkles and "shrink" the covers tight.
They are listed for S40/V50, Ridies.com doesn't have a listing for C30 - I was under the impression that the only difference was the C30 back release that is not present on S/V P1s. They definitely don't fit as snug as the CanadaSeatSkins version I bought years ago for my C30, and the cut is different on the bolsters. That said, in the pic above I hadn't yet pulled the seat back tight though to the rear panel. There is still more loose leather at the base of the back bolsters though. I'll have to look into using a steamer, I'm not going to be happy with them having all the wrinkles.

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Worked on finishing the details on the seats. Driver's seat I had to remove again & modify the backrest cushion base foam in order for the cover to pull together underneath

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Forward lip has to fold over & tuck into the rear panel channel
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I punched the ends & used tie wraps to hold the ends together - otherwise the forward lip wants to pull out of the channel
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done
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Added a cut out switch to the DS module - it's still quirky though. I've ordered a used seat module so I can lobotomize it the same way as the passenger side - that one works perfectly. Pretty sure I damaged the driver's one with all the initial probing/testing beyond the point where it will be reliable.
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Base wiring tidied up
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Working on a friends 220K mile '93 945T - has oil leaks all over the place, so I'm doing the 3 front seals (and timing belt), oil pan gasket & oil pickup tube orings, PCV box, breather drain tube (requires pan off the properly place the tube clear of the crank), distributor shaft seal & outer orings, dipstick tube oring, While its apart, doing the ancillary mount bushings, drive belts, AC repair, heater hose & valve relocation (improperly set in the past), and sundry odds & ends that come up on these.

Breather box was previously resealed - very badly
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Ancillary bushings all look like these
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Drive belts all look like this
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Whomever did the last T/belt, dropped a cover bolt INSIDE the cover - amazing it didn't throw the belt
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I keep a spare front cover, so I can install the two lower seals off the car, then press them the final 1/4" with the Volvo tools after the cover is on.
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distributor leaking from the inside (after much cleaning)
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had to make a tool to get the pin out
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rebuilt with new shaft seal & orings
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Also the distributor was missing the condensate trap to keep moisture out of the rotor & cap contact pins
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Still much more to go. Subframe bolts were all seized - took quite some time to get them free without damage, Harmonic damper was rusted on to the crank snout, so I had to order a new one.
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What a job! Looks like another example of "driven to failure". Shame that while you are in there, you could/should upgrade that accessory bracket to the NEW improved 94/95 version, which rigidly mounts the AC compressor. Half of those stupid isolation bushes go away.... and no more squealing AC belt! I might have one of those brackets left in my old RB hoard......

As always, nice work and excellent example of proper custom tools and "best practice" of the OE seal on the crank.
 
I'll have to research that bracket - the owner might be interested in upgrading it DTR - he's not planning on ever getting rid of this wagon.

'93 945T: Cleaned up the crank, cam & idler snouts, installed the front cover gasket & cover w/seals, then put the timing covers, tensioners & belt back on.
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acid etched some rusty bits, and painted them
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Today I also worked on another friends 2016 V60 - was due for the timing belt service. I replace the idler, tensioner and water pump as a matter of course, and the serpentine belt & tensioner, since everything has over 110K at this point
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This was nested inside the timing cover
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The job isn't quite as bad as on a C30/S40/V50 - there is more space beneath the frame rail to access the damper & crank gear. AC belt is fkd up - no tensioner or adjuster- you have to just cut the old one off & work the new one on by stretching it over the AC clutch
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Water pump came out with gasket intact - couldn't believe my luck on that!
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New parts back in, timing confirmed after several rotations by hand
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