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'79 244 K-Jet start issues

volvro

New member
Joined
Feb 23, 2025
Hey all,

I've got a 1979 Volvo 244 DL running the k-jet injection system. Was initially non running, but both fuel pumps, filter, and fuel pressure regulator have been replaced. Now the car runs and drives well once I get it started. I think that's a good sign the injection system isn't totally bunked. The problem is actually getting it to start. I have to pump the gas and give the car lots of throttle while cranking to get it going. It'll start up perfectly if I turn the car off and immediately start it again, but if I let it sit, it will take even longer to start than the first time. Idle sounds high in park and neutral, can't really tell because this model has no tachometer. I know k-jet can get pricey if I start throwing replacement parts at it so I wanted to see if there were some areas to initially focus on. Other than that the car runs and looks nice. Just getting embarrassing failing to start the car in front of people haha.

Let me know your input!

Thanks.
 
The check valve at the fuel pump can cause this but you replaced the pumps already. Should have new check valves with the new pumps.
The fuel accumulator can cause this also and not sure if you changed that. It’s the spring canister after the main pump. I assume The regulator you’re referring to is the warm up a control pressure regulator?
What helped mine also was the little tiny oring that’s inside the fuel distributor where you adjust the shims for pressure. If that return oring is bad it will be hard to start as the fuel bypasses and goes back to the tank. If that oring is hard. It’s bad.

Other than that, your fuel distributor can be sticking so it’s not closing or opening until the engine starts and fuel flow lubricants it. It sat for a while? Then rust could have built up inside cause that on the center fuel control plunger.
Leaking cold start injector if you’re smelling lots of fuel while cranking.
Compression loss due to car sitting and rust pitting cylinder walls or lots of carbon built up causing the valves to not close all the way.
 
A hard cold start can be from the cold start valve not injecting fuel. You can test it by removing it and putting it in a jar. See if it drips when fuel pressure hits it and it should spray on cold engine cranking. Don't test with a warmed up engine because it's controlled by a thermal time switch that opens the circuit with a hot engine.
Other things to check at the rubber boot going to the throttle body. That can make air leaks. Make sure you look around for cracked vacuum hoses. Especially the ones for the charcoal canister. It is normal for about a 850-900 rpm neutral idle because you want about 750 when in drive maybe even a bit higher with a B21F.
 
Hey all,

I've got a 1979 Volvo 244 DL running the k-jet injection system. Was initially non running, but both fuel pumps, filter, and fuel pressure regulator have been replaced. Now the car runs and drives well once I get it started. I think that's a good sign the injection system isn't totally bunked. The problem is actually getting it to start. I have to pump the gas and give the car lots of throttle while cranking to get it going. It'll start up perfectly if I turn the car off and immediately start it again, but if I let it sit, it will take even longer to start than the first time. Idle sounds high in park and neutral, can't really tell because this model has no tachometer. I know k-jet can get pricey if I start throwing replacement parts at it so I wanted to see if there were some areas to initially focus on. Other than that the car runs and looks nice. Just getting embarrassing failing to start the car in front of people haha.

Let me know your input!

Thanks.
I have the same car, and what sounds like the same symptoms. In mine, the hard starts after sitting is only an annoyance so far, so I haven't pursued fixing it. Lately it may be weeks, even months between uses, but if only a day or two it cranks maybe 4 or 5 revs before it starts. Matters little whether I hold the throttle open, so I believe the accumulator may be leaky, since that is the oldest part among those that could cause low rest pressure. And yes, I went to drive a friend to get a part while working on his '01 modern volvo, and he wondered if the car would make it hearing me crank on it.

My advice is get the fuel pressure checked before throwing parts at it. There are some good posts on this forum about building a gauge setup. Or look for the kit. https://cleanflametrap.com/kjetGauge.htm
 
The cold start injector operates independently of the warm up regulator. It uses the starter trigger voltage to energize the injector and grounds the injector through the thermal time switch. The thermal time switch also receives the starter trigger signal to heat the internal bi-metal strip which will break the ground signal after 12 seconds max (depending on ambient temp). The bi-metal strip will also be warmed by the engine preventing cold start enrichment on a warm engine.
Screenshot_20250416_164835_Samsung Notes.jpg
 
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