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89’ 245 2.4 stalling issue

T

Tyezye

Member
Joined
May 5, 2024
Hi everyone!
I’ve purchased a 89’ Volvo 245 on eBay that was supposedly turnkey and have another post up in off topic about this issue but decided to start over and inquire for help on this one. It originally was misfiring terribly.


The car is idling rough and stalling when put into reverse or maybe I am just always taking it out of my driveway or a parking spot in reverse when the engine hasn’t warmed up entirely yet. Once warm it doesn’t do it again but still idles rough.

The car has a rebuilt engine (supposedly)
Engine came from a 93’ based on what I was told. EGR has been deleted. Smoke tested for vacuum leaks and have sealed everything.

Here are the items that have replaced so far:

New Injectors
New IAC
New MAF - Delphi
New breather box
New water pump
New flame trap kit
New spark plugs
New spark plug wires
New ECM 0280000951
New ECU 0227400169
All new vacuum lines and intake box
Timing is dead on

^ Clearly none of these things have helped all that much but the parts were so old that I am looking at most of this as routine maintenance.

Any ideas?
 
I'm still saying you should try a known good used Bosch 016 MAF. Doesn't matter if it's brand new, the aftermarket MAF/AMMs can come DOA. I don't trust any of the new ones - even the super expensive ones IPD and some dealers have are/can be junk right out of the box. It wouldn't surprise me if the car came with a good one and RBS swiped it and swapped it out for a shite one.
 
Tyezye said:
The Bosch model that the car came with runs really bad and throws a code.
Click to expand...
Just like the other post that was made earlier, new ones are known to be bad without throwing a code. Try to get a known good one from someone on here, or if anyone is around you to swap.

Tyezye said:
It does idle a little high but once put into gear it levels out.
Click to expand...
Does the TPS click? the car does not need to be running, put your ear to the throttle body and turn the throttle
 
Tyezye said:
The Bosch model that the car came with runs really bad and throws a code.
Click to expand...
That’s the problem with assumptions. You’re assuming that because it’s a brand new part that it works properly. The shop likely replaced a bad part with another brand new defective part. I don’t know of anyone personally that bought a new aftermarket AMM that worked correctly.
 
2manyturbos said:
That’s the problem with assumptions. You’re assuming that because it’s a brand new part that it works properly. The shop likely replaced a bad part with another brand new defective part. I don’t know of anyone personally that bought a new aftermarket AMM that worked correctly.
Click to expand...
I've got a couple of remanned ones from rockauto that are useable, but keep them as spares as I don't think that wont last
 
2manyturbos said:
That’s the problem with assumptions. You’re assuming that because it’s a brand new part that it works properly. The shop likely replaced a bad part with another brand new defective part. I don’t know of anyone personally that bought a new aftermarket AMM that worked correctly.
Click to expand...
I bought it off IPD like a dummy. It was my first goto replacement part.

Pietercc said:
Just like the other post that was made earlier, new ones are known to be bad without throwing a code. Try to get a known good one from someone on here, or if anyone is around you to swap.


Does the TPS click? the car does not need to be running, put your ear to the throttle body and turn the throttle
Click to expand...
TPS clicks
 
The LH2.4 ECU is supposed to increase the idle speed a little when shifting out of park. If you try to start it in reverse, or drive, with your foot on the brakes, does it still crank (it shouldn't)?

When warmed up at idle, you can try unplugging the injector connectors one-at-a-time and see if all 4 cylinders behave about the same. If you find one that doesn't cause much of a change, that's a good clue for poor injection and/or spark.

How's the paint and bodywork up close? The web pictures looked pretty nice.
How are the "few minor surface rust spots ... on the driver rocker, passenger rocker, hood and windshield"?
 
bobxyz said:
The LH2.4 ECU is supposed to increase the idle speed a little when shifting out of park. If you try to start it in reverse, or drive, with your foot on the brakes, does it still crank (it shouldn't)?

When warmed up at idle, you can try unplugging the injector connectors one-at-a-time and see if all 4 cylinders behave about the same. If you find one that doesn't cause much of a change, that's a good clue for poor injection and/or spark.

How's the paint and bodywork up close? The web pictures looked pretty nice.
How are the "few minor surface rust spots ... on the driver rocker, passenger rocker, hood and windshield"?
Click to expand...
Thank you for the things to check. Currently changing exhaust manifold and catalytic converter so I’ll check those this evening.
I will say that the car does feel muggy inside after a rainstorm which we rarely get here. I recently had to fix the driver door because the mechanism rusted out. I found the wires for the power locks have rusted out also so that doesn’t work. The rockers are pretty bad but I am unsure if they’re leaking water just yet. I am steadily restoring this car so it’s coming along pretty well but the rough idle is really getting old.

Took a lot of torching and lubrication to get the brakes done.
 
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