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89’ 245 2.4 stalling issue

You should run a compression test and also check the vacuum with the engine running at idle. When the OBD1 can't lead you to a problem it is back to the basics.
 
edit: oops, my mistake, as confirmed below, it's the cold start injector, which only fires at extremely low temperatures (~5degrees F) when cranking. It was eliminated in later versions of LH2.4.
 
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Cold start injector only fires below a certain temp, having it unplugged wouldn't be causing any issues you have now. The 556 ECU that came with your car originally used it. You probably have a different ECU that doesn't use the injector.
 
The injector will only fire below 5°F, and below 900rpms. If the cranking is worse with it connected (and it's obviously not anywhere near that temp) then there is a break in the wiring for the temp sensor OR the temp sensor is bad. Have you tested continuity for the temp sensor at the LH plug? That's the first thing I do when I've got an LH car that runs poorly. That would also point towards you still have the 556 ECU.

Also why does it need a cat and an exhaust manifold? Did it not have a cat?
 
OVERDRIVE said:
The injector will only fire below 5°F, and below 900rpms. If the cranking is worse with it connected (and it's obviously not anywhere near that temp) then there is a break in the wiring for the temp sensor OR the temp sensor is bad. Have you tested continuity for the temp sensor at the LH plug? That's the first thing I do when I've got an LH car that runs poorly. That would also point towards you still have the 556 ECU.

Also why does it need a cat and an exhaust manifold? Did it not have a cat?
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Based on the chart that I am reading that’s #2 and #5 on the plug? I have replaced the ecu with a 951.

Exhaust manifold and cat have leaks. Rusted and crumbling ^
 
Checking the coolant temp sensor resistance at the ECU and EZK plugs is an excellent idea. For the EZK, with engine off, unplug the EZK and measure pin #2 to ground. For the ECU, it's pin #13 to ground.

If you are gentle, you can measure by just touching the probe tip lightly to the connector pin. Do not shove the probe tip into the pin or else you'll damage it and have intermittent connection problems.

You can find a couple good greenbooks at ozvolvo.org\archive\ - look for "TP31397" (incomplete) for EZK-116 diagnostics and "TP31361" for LH2.4 ECU diagnostics.

If the temperature sensor resistance at the connectors is bad, it might be the sensor, or it might be the wiring.
 
bobxyz said:
Checking the coolant temp sensor resistance at the ECU and EZK plugs is an excellent idea. For the EZK, with engine off, unplug the EZK and measure pin #2 to ground. For the ECU, it's pin #13 to ground.

If you are gentle, you can measure by just touching the probe tip lightly to the connector pin. Do not shove the probe tip into the pin or else you'll damage it and have intermittent connection problems.

You can find a couple good greenbooks at ozvolvo.org\archive\ - look for "TP31397" (incomplete) for EZK-116 diagnostics and "TP31361" for LH2.4 ECU diagnostics.

If the temperature sensor resistance at the connectors is bad, it might be the sensor, or it might be the wiring.
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#18 looks damaged :| when I get home I’ll check with multimeter
 
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Tyezye said:
#18 looks damaged :| when I get home I’ll check with multimeter
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I have replaced the MAF again and currently getting codes: 3-2-2 on plug 2 and 2-1-4 on plug 6

Rough idle continues..just got the a/c charged and it’s stalling when I stop at the light.

Current setup now:
MAF: 0280212016
ECU: 0280000951
EZK: 0227400169

Still need to check resistance for temp sensor. Sorry just hadn’t gotten around to it as it spent the last two days at the shop. Even the mechanics there can’t figure it out.
 
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Well, I’m finally throwing in the towel so I will no longer be needing any help with it.

I have spent close to $10k on the car all together and it has become a financial burden unfortunately.

Thank you for all the help. It will be posted for sale here locally.
 
Tyezye said:
Yeah, it will be driven tomorrow to get to work and then maybe the dust will burn off or something. I don’t have much hope anymore
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The codes you are getting now make sense for rough idle and stalling. You may have a pin in your AMM connector that is pushed back into the connector or some similar problem. The intermittent signal from the CPS would definitely cause stalling and a rough idle. You are almost there. Brand new crank position sensors can be bad out of the box. What brand sensor is in your car? I only run Bougicord sensors.
 
@Tyezye please don't give up now, you've fixed up so much already and have become familiar with the car. Once sorted, the 240s are pretty nice to work on, and the paint/bodywork on yours makes it a keeper.

Can you describe the rough idle in more detail? Is it just a slight variation, or does it shake the whole engine, or what??? How does it change between cold startup and after warm up?
 
I have taken it back to the shop that worked on the A/C. They came highly rated from another Volvo owner I met in town. The car completely broke down this afternoon when my gf tried to come home for lunch. I rushed over to try to limp it to the shop but it’s now sputtering in park and dies as soon as you put it into gear. Giving it gas gets it going but it takes a solid one second per one mile per hour gain. Dogsh*t slow. Hopefully it comes back to me fixed as I am done working on it.
 
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