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92 740T will start fine once, then sputters out and will not restart and stay running

ZVOLV said:
Save the $$ on wasted parts for the wee little "baddescsionsmadedaily"???


I told you about $20 in tools and $5 can of starting fluid. I linked in my thread with a video on how to use starting fluid.

DOES IT RUN ON STARTING FLUID?!!!!
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maybe its the exhaust. swap that out next
 
baddecisionsmadedaily said:
Not sure what you mean by that, considering everything that I have replaced had some form of failure or issue. I will say I am unlucky in the fact that it hasn't gotten to the bottom of the overall problem, but I have taken care of quite a lot of things that were beaten and in need of repair. The car has over 260 thousand miles and little to no service history. I get it that most people would spend the time to do diag and all that, but I only have time to grab parts and install with the kid being just born. Not saying its the right way, but its the way that I am currently making due with.
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when your baby gets sick are you just going to give it medicine in hopes to cure baby or take baby to the doctor?
 
This is the fundamentals behind what you're trying to achieve:

Screenshot_20251113_075950_Chrome.jpg
From here: https://www.grc.nasa.gov/www/k-12/airplane/otto.html#:~:text=Stage 2 begins the compression,and the process repeats itself.


The two axis are pressure and volume.

The integrity of the volume of your engine is ideally going to be a constant. That is, you haven't had a cylinder leave the chat. Likewise, your ability to make pressure should remain constant - again, this assumes the integrity of the head, block and most importantly - the head gasket between them.

In the diagram above, the change in volume is relative to the change in volume of the fuel load (air + fuel). The pressure of that charge changes as the crank moves the piston in the bore and the ignition causes combustion.

The computer that is in the car from the factory uses the parameters programmed into it to monitor sensors to use a known volume to calculate how much fuel to give and at what time to fire the ignition in the diagram above.

If there are problems maintaining the integrity of the data that the computer requires to calculate the fuel load (VE) or the spark timing, then the entire process fails.

Some of those might include:

- An intake leak: This would allow unmetered air to be involved in the combustion event. Too much air means that the car is lean. Leaning out will result in excess heat if the car is running when this happens. Not enough air, the opposite is now true. The car will run rich -fouling the spark plugs and the catalytic converter.

- Incorrect timing: This could happen by mechanical or electrical fault. The timing belt maintains the relationship between the pistons and the valves. If this is out of sync, the intake and exhaust events will not occur during the planned crank angle window for the fuel load planned by the computer. It could also cause the spark to occur at the wrong time which could be catastrophic. Conversely, it may not occur at all or intermittently.

- Incorrect fuel delivery: If the computer can't enable the pump to provide fuel or if there is a wiring or plumbing issue, the fuel load planned by the computer will not be sufficient for the work to occur given the load it has observed using airflow and the engine speed.

You need to consider these things and use the suggestions in this thread to find the point in the process that is failing in your vehicle.

It isn't sorcery. It is a practical science that is relatively easy to master. You might even find a way to make the little one's life better if you can wrap your mind around it.

Finally, remember that while we are here to cheer you on and give you a hard time...

Ultimately, no-one is going to save you but you. You have to determine that today is the day this POS will run again. Then go out there and do it. And if you fail today, get up tomorrow and do it again.

Good luck! I hope that you make better decisions today!
 
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240 240 said:
when your baby gets sick are you just going to give it medicine in hopes to cure baby or take baby to the doctor?
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Already reached out to mechanics in the area and nobody has agreed to work on the vehicle. Trust me, I know I'm not going about it in the best way, I just do not have the time to spend being a doctor on this when I barely have enough time to turn a wrench. I would love nothing more than to pay somebody to fix my stupid problem, but that is not in the books right now so unfortunately I have to make due with what I have.
 
ZVOLV said:
Let's try this again...

DOES IT RUN ON BRAKE CLEANER?
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It kicks over on gas, just is not staying running. The rsr wiring was corroded so I retired that but still no real change. It will sometimes kick over but the moment i give it any throttle, it dies, and even when it is firing, it is sporadic.
 
Im getting super fed up with this shit. Car has been down for almost 2 months now and nothing is helping, and with having the kid my time to work on shit is out the door. Rsr wiring was junk so did that and no change. Fuel hose had a tear so replaced that and no change. Cap and rotor were waterlogged and cracked, no change. Spark plugs were fouled and covered in carbon, replaced and no change. New volvo rsr relay, no change. I really need to get this shit moving as my landlord is getting antsy about it sitting, and I would like to avoid having my car towed. Im sure its some stupid simple bullshit that I am just too scatterbrained to notice, but fuck man, I would love nothing else than to just pay someone to fix this fucking thing. I miss my car and I miss having time to really dig into it, but I am losing my mind on this and I can't keep trying to split focus between the car and the kid.
 
baddecisionsmadedaily said:
Im getting super fed up with this shit. Car has been down for almost 2 months now and nothing is helping, and with having the kid my time to work on shit is out the door. Rsr wiring was junk so did that and no change. Fuel hose had a tear so replaced that and no change. Cap and rotor were waterlogged and cracked, no change. Spark plugs were fouled and covered in carbon, replaced and no change. New volvo rsr relay, no change. I really need to get this shit moving as my landlord is getting antsy about it sitting, and I would like to avoid having my car towed. Im sure its some stupid simple bullshit that I am just too scatterbrained to notice, but fuck man, I would love nothing else than to just pay someone to fix this fucking thing. I miss my car and I miss having time to really dig into it, but I am losing my mind on this and I can't keep trying to split focus between the car and the kid.
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The problem is you

You have two choices; make time or pay someone

And if you make time listen to the suggestions on here instead of asking then ignoring then causing more issues
 
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Jack said:
The problem is you

You have two choices; make time or pay someone

And if you make time listen to the suggestions on here instead of asking then ignoring then causing more issues
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Everything that I have looked into has been from suggestions on here. Rsr wiring was suggested and found to be bad, so i replaced that and it didnt help. The fuel pressure regulator was suggested and I found that there were leaks on both sides of the regulator so I replaced that and no change. The dizzy was suggested and was found to be cracked and holding water, so it was replaced and no change. The injectors being checked was just a thing I wanted to do but they all fire and have been soaked in cleaner. The fuel hose was also a lucky find, but did not make any difference. The car is not throwing any codes through the pin plug. I do still need to check if starting fluid or anything will run it now, but before recently the vehicle would start and idle fine on gas, only dying once it was under load, so I don't know what much that would tell us.
 
Jack said:
Keep it simple

Fuel, spark, air

What’s there, what’s missing
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Getting fuel for sure. Going to pull coil wire from dizzy and see if ignition coil is firing consistently, but I know that coil forward the vehicle is new. I still need to hit the car with propane or something to fully check for air leaks, but when it kicks over I can't hear any vacuum leaks, nor can my sibling when listening under the hood. The fuel pump relay clicks on key turn every time, but I know that doesn't mean that the injector side of things is working in it.
 
pull each plug (individually) wire and check for spark
I don’t care if it’s new

Why see if it’s running on starting fluid if you “know” it’s getting fuel

You don’t really listen for vacuum leaks you look for them especially if engine is cranking


Does it run with the maf disconnected

Picture of the Engine bay … maybe we can spot something
 
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