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92 740T will start fine once, then sputters out and will not restart and stay running

Hey dude, I know of a shop that works on older Volvos , Alamao used to be Tabor Volvo but still has the sign, we used to take my 88' 245 there until I took over taking care of it (OG owners retired). You got to email them though, but they respond quick. Only suggesting it because it doesnt sound like you have a lot of time to tinker.

Tabor Volvo Service

www.taborvolvoservice.com www.taborvolvoservice.com
 
I used to take my old Volvos in and pay for diag and then do the work myself. It might make more sense than keep on firing the parts cannon.

I worked at a couple independent shops where we could just send stuff back with the parts driver if it didn't fix it. We did so much business with the supplier they wouldn't ask any questions. It created a bad habit.

I have also worked at dealerships where the parts department is 50 feet away and they have the part in stock. We all know the convenience of throwing a part at a problem instead of taking the time to learn how to diagnose the problem correctly. I have had to sit down with the manager plenty of times before and be like, yeah, that didn't fix it.
 
Added 2 videos to the Google drive file, had it running but when I hit throttle this time it started bogging and killed itself in the first video, and second is it trying to restart. Might be best to try and have somebody diag it, but at the same time, I feel like I have to be getting close to the answer. Thinking the smoke test will give good clues on it with how it's acting. Wouldn't put it past me to overlook something in a hurry
 
I was also gonna suggest checking cam timing.

I think 1992 "should" have the scrader valve for fuel pressure testing.

Has another MAF been tried? I read back thru the thread briefly. I didn't see a different MAF has been tried, but I did find my post where I said you could have contaminated your maf with a crappy cone filter.

So did you spend the 5 minutes getting o2 sensor voltage data once warm? It all still looks like you are running lean and it is falling on its face when you blip the throttle. That reeks of lean due to low fuel pressure or shit MAF.

I would be interested to see the MAF signal wire voltage too.
 
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ZVOLV said:
I was also gonna suggest checking cam timing.

I think 1992 "should" have the scrader valve for fuel pressure testing.

Has another MAF been tried? I read back thru the thread briefly. I didn't see a different MAF has been tried, but I did find my post where I said you could have contaminated your maf with a crappy cone filter.

So did you spend the 5 minutes getting o2 sensor voltage data once warm? It all still looks like you are running lean and it is falling on its face when you blip the throttle. That reeks of lean due to low fuel pressure or shit MAF.

I would be interested to see the MAF signal wire voltage too.
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It is a k&n, and I know they have been lacking lately in quality control. It's also wet filter vs dry, so could it be that the wet element shit the bed for the MAF? Still haven't grabbed a voltmeter yet, slowly getting to the point with kiddo that I can get out more so should be able to grab one soon.
 
The oil from K&N air filters is notorious for fouling MAF's. Well mostly after somebody has cleaned it and over oiled it.

$5 harbor freight meter is a good place to start. So cheap there really isn't a reason not to leave one in the car next to the $3 test lamp and $5 noid light.
 
Does 1992 have the Shrader valve on the fuel rail to check fuel pressure? The only gauge I have found that fits well is the one with the 90 degree fitting
 
My ‘92 had one but the car had been extensively modified so I don’t know if that was stock or not. There are sometimes valves between the in tank lift pump and the main fuel pump, but that will only tell you half the story.
 
Delayed update, checked pressure at rail and was reading in the 30s instead of the 40ish side it should have been so I pulled the in tank pump, and the fuel sock was ripped to shreds and had contaminated the pre pump. Got a new pre pump and sock, threw it all in and the battery is dead dead, haha. Going to get a new battery to throw in the car and hopefully I finally got to the bottom of this nightmare.
 
Was that engine running or just key on? Whatever the rating is for the FPR, that is at ZERO psi/vacuum. When the engine is running, the vacuum is pulling on the regulator and the fuel pressure will be less than whatever is stamped on the damn thing.
 
baddecisionsmadedaily said:
Just key on. Just key on. Read that standard pressure is 43.5, was seeing 30ish. Pulled tank and the sock had deteriorated and was more or less hanging by threads.
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That is pretty standard. Watch out for shitty aftermarket pumps. Also some of them had the polarity wrong and suck.

How/which fuel gauge did you get on there?
 
It sounds like you are making progress. Good!

Once you fix all the basic common points of failure on these cars, you will get many years without trouble. I think the only time I have had to use AAA in the last 10 years was when I ran outta gas or a tire blowout. I can usually catch things close to home before they become a problem.
 
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