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92 740T will start fine once, then sputters out and will not restart and stay running

Yeah, either super dead battery, or I could have blown off a vacuum line. It was super dark out this morning and was on my way to work so didn't take the time to check, but when I clock out and head home I will go over everything again and see what I can find. Just happy to finally get back up and running. Damn near shed a tear flying down 217 haha! It definitely made a big difference with the refurbed injectors and new ignition, before I was having a heavy wandering idle, but after the fixes, it holds right under 1k rather steadily. Feels good to figure it out.
 
I don't understand what changed, but I know that feeling.

Don't get pulled over. I fixed a boost leak one time and got all my power back and was doing some full throttle test runs on the freeway by the Mexican border and got pulled over. Cop had his hand on his gun. It turns out he was looking for somebody in a green car. Mine was dark blue. I got my ticket and my lecture about how he doesn't like picking up body parts on the freeway.

I used to think roadside "shrines" were a distraction, but it reminds me to stay safe. They are all over the place here in TX. In CA they seem to take them away off the freeways, but around here you see crosses all over the place with oil field workers' helmets on them. No guardrails or center divides out here. Just head-on passing around oil field semi trucks.

There is actually a cross right at the intersection leaving my house. People speed around the blind corner all day long. I almost got smoked yesterday by a guy doing about 70mph in the 40mph around the blind corner.
 
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You need to check the battery voltage before you start the car and then again once it is running and idling. If the voltage is lower once running you either have no power to the exciter circuit of the alternator or a bad alternator. The 1991-1994 940 instrument clusters are prone to cracked solder joints. Especially, the solder joints that the exciter circuit and fuel gage are on. The alternator will self excite at higher RPM which is why most people don't notice the problem unless the car is hard starting, or, driven in traffic at night quite a bit. Either will run the battery charge way down.
 
I guess it might help if the battery in the car was actually rated for it yeah? Keep reading that 600-750 CCA is what the car should be using. Checked the current battery and it is rated at 525. Going to get bigger battery and install, should make everything happy.
 
baddecisionsmadedaily said:
I guess it might help if the battery in the car was actually rated for it yeah? Keep reading that 600-750 CCA is what the car should be using. Checked the current battery and it is rated at 525. Going to get bigger battery and install, should make everything happy.
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Your Volvo runs off the alternator, not the battery. Check your charging system.
 
baddecisionsmadedaily said:
Got it up and running again, but now getting a 3-1-1 code. I know the speedometer doesn't work, but could that be giving me a bad time under load?
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No. You may just get a high idle after a freeway run.


WTF did you do to get it running the last time and this time? I don't see where you posted that you did any repair. It fixed itself?
 
ZVOLV said:
No. You may just get a high idle after a freeway run.


WTF did you do to get it running the last time and this time? I don't see where you posted that you did any repair. It fixed itself?
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Got home, tried to start it and fired right up. Was hesitant with gas at first but after idling for a little bit it cleared up and was able to move around. Last time it was just the oil change after the resistor pack. No clue as to what happened with it this time, but I am still going to get a bigger cca battery just to be safe.
 
baddecisionsmadedaily said:
Got home, tried to start it and fired right up. Was hesitant with gas at first but after idling for a little bit it cleared up and was able to move around. Last time it was just the oil change after the resistor pack. No clue as to what happened with it this time, but I am still going to get a bigger cca battery just to be safe.
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Just throwing this out there, but I resolved a persistent cold rough idle/misfire on my car after 2 years when I replaced the battery as well as the ground straps on the back of the engine. The battery was very low in the cold morning to the point of getting phantom electrical issues in the gauge cluster/seat belt chime for a few seconds and cranking slowly for just long enough to start. The ground straps on the back of the head were in awful condition, almost completely frayed away at the valve cover connection. I think these grounds are commonly ignored and I suspect I was getting injector/fuel mixture issues as a result. I would recommend checking those straps out. If they're original, the movement of the engine over time has probably worn them down significantly.

It took awhile to figure out because the issue went away with a little bit of throttle and it was fine to drive, so I had a hard time diagnosing components
 
NLRegina said:
Just throwing this out there, but I resolved a persistent cold rough idle/misfire on my car after 2 years when I replaced the battery as well as the ground straps on the back of the engine. The battery was very low in the cold morning to the point of getting phantom electrical issues in the gauge cluster/seat belt chime for a few seconds and cranking slowly for just long enough to start. The ground straps on the back of the head were in awful condition, almost completely frayed away at the valve cover connection. I think these grounds are commonly ignored and I suspect I was getting injector/fuel mixture issues as a result. I would recommend checking those straps out. If they're original, the movement of the engine over time has probably worn them down significantly.

It took awhile to figure out because the issue went away with a little bit of throttle and it was fine to drive, so I had a hard time diagnosing components
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Talking the braided ground wire to the back of the head? Recently checked and looked good at head, but I will look further in and see if anything is cut up. I know when I bought the car, it looked like the strap had been replaced, but that doesn't mean much from where I bought it.
 
baddecisionsmadedaily said:
Talking the braided ground wire to the back of the head? Recently checked and looked good at head, but I will look further in and see if anything is cut up. I know when I bought the car, it looked like the strap had been replaced, but that doesn't mean much from where I bought it.
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Yes, should be 2 of them going to each side of the valve cover
 
baddecisionsmadedaily said:
Got home, tried to start it and fired right up. Was hesitant with gas at first but after idling for a little bit it cleared up and was able to move around. Last time it was just the oil change after the resistor pack. No clue as to what happened with it this time, but I am still going to get a bigger cca battery just to be safe.
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I heard if you add a battery to your battery the car will be even faster.
 
Man this car really confuses me. Thought everything was good, went to start it after sitting for a few days, started up but died under light throttle at idle like it was doing at the beginning of all this. I know I have good fuel pressure, I know I have injector pulse, I know compression is solid, could it be power stage cutting out? It feels like it's getting intermittent misfire when I rev it up, almost like it's cutting out on decel. When I hold throttle more than a little, the engine catches and is able to rev up, but if I barely press the gas, it bogs it out and dies, and then won't restart. Assuming the no restart is because it flooded the cylinders, but why am I not getting combustion at low throttle? Throttle body is cleaned and working.
 
Just skimmed, was the fuel pressure tested while running or when it was running bad? Bad main pumps have been the most common intermediate running issues under load for me.
 
2manyturbos said:
Save me reading back through 8 pages. Has the CPS ever been replaced?
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Yes current list of replaced or refurbished parts is as follows
Cps
Engine coolant temp sensor
Rsr
Resistor pack
Maf
Vacuum lines
Fpr
Fuel lines
In tank pump
In tank filter
In line pump
In line filter
Injectors
Dizzy rotor
Dizzy cap
Spark plugs
Spark wires
Oil
Rsr wiring
Battery
Might be forgetting a few things but that is the main bunch of it
 
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