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93' 240 fluctuating idle

JORRARD

New member
Joined
Dec 29, 2023
Location
Wichita, KS USA
The idle on my 240 goes up and down until the idle drops enough that it dies, this only happens when the car is warmed up for some reason. I've already cleaned and tested the Idle air control, replaced the coolant temperature sensor, and tested the MAF. None of those seemed to be the issue. The car also has all new sparkplugs, distributor rotor and cap, spark plug wires, and Ignition control unit. I can't seem to find the issue.
 
The idle on my 240 goes up and down until the idle drops enough that it dies, this only happens when the car is warmed up for some reason. I've already cleaned and tested the Idle air control, replaced the coolant temperature sensor, and tested the MAF. None of those seemed to be the issue. The car also has all new sparkplugs, distributor rotor and cap, spark plug wires, and Ignition control unit. I can't seem to find the issue.
How did you test the AMM? There is no valid test anyone other than a AMM rebuilder can perform to make sure a 240 AMM is working properly.
 
For the AMM I tested it by unplugging it and seeing if there was a change in the idle.
Was there a change?

And can you see that both the cap and rotor are brass? if they have nickel contacts that may be an issue. I think new bosh may be nickel
 
For the AMM I tested it by unplugging it and seeing if there was a change in the idle.
That literally means nothing. I have about 10 AMMs that are defective that will pass that absolutely useless test. Be careful what you read on the internet. That so called test has been in circulation for many years and it is complete BS.
 
The check engine light is not on, and there are no codes.
And down the rabbit hole you go. A bad AMM will almost never trigger a code that means anything. If you break the hot wire it will fail the hot wire test. If you unplug it the code for a missing signal from the AMM will be triggered. Short of drowning the engine in fuel and triggering a rich mixture code there isn't anything helpful in Volvo's OBD1 code that will help you decide whether your AMM is working correctly.
 
And down the rabbit hole you go. A bad AMM will almost never trigger a code that means anything. If you break the hot wire it will fail the hot wire test. If you unplug it the code for a missing signal from the AMM will be triggered. Short of drowning the engine in fuel and triggering a rich mixture code there isn't anything helpful in Volvo's OBD1 code that will help you decide whether your AMM is working correctly.
What is the best way to test the AMM, or should I go and buy a new one?
 
What is the best way to test the AMM, or should I go and buy a new one?
The only valid test you can do is put the AMM on another 240 that is running properly and see if the symptoms follow it, and/or install a known good AMM from another 240 and see if suddenly all the problems with your 240 suddenly disappear. I always keep a known good AMM on hand as a test tool. There are so many different problems a failing AMM can cause it is a must for me to have a good one on hand. I would not buy a new AMM unless it was the only option. Many of the new AMM offerings are junk right out of the box. A surging idle is one of the symptoms of a bad AMM. I'm not saying your AMM is bad, just that what you describe is one of the many problems a bad AMM can cause. I don't want to see you chasing your tail.
 
What is the best way to test the AMM, or should I go and buy a new one?
Ask for a known good one here, there may be someone in your area with one that can help. Do not just buy a new one, as those are remanufactured, and are not actually known good. Lots of people have gotten new ones bad out of the box
 
Ask for a known good one here, there may be someone in your area with one that can help. Do not just buy a new one, as those are remanufactured, and are not actually known good. Lots of people have gotten new ones bad out of the box
Especially if you buy one of the new design Chinese manufactured AMMs. IPD sells them. Someone on here recently bought one from IPD that was junk right out of the box. What I was told is when they wanted to return it as a defective part IPD refused to accept the return claiming that since it was an electrical part that had been plugged in it could not be returned. AWESOME. How would a customer know the had bought a piece of defective junk by just looking at it? What a F'ing cop out. They bought a good used AMM from someone I know and are still motoring on. Two other customers of mine also bought the "new" design AMM and they were bad out of the box.
 
You've 'tested' the AMM, but have you cleaned it out yet?

I wouldn't rule it out until you've blasted all the possible soot and grease out of it with some electronics cleaner. A bad cone filter located next to a source of dirt and grime in my engine bay totally killed mine.
 
I will try to find someone in my area that would have a good AMM, if not should I go to a junkyard and look for one?
Junk yard AMMs are a crap shoot. Try to borrow one to start with. It sounds like you can still drive your car. If you determine you need a replacement, put up a wanted ad on here and someone should be able to sell you one that they have confirmed works properly.
 
You've 'tested' the AMM, but have you cleaned it out yet?

I wouldn't rule it out until you've blasted all the possible soot and grease out of it with some electronics cleaner. A bad cone filter located next to a source of dirt and grime in my engine bay totally killed mine.
I cleaned it out about a week ago when I was trying other things.
 
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