93 240 Pickup Project Ruby

[lookforjoe]

Waiting on handbrake parts and one rear caliper. I had freed both rears, however I noticed in pulling the calipers that both had torn inner boots. I can probably source boots, but since they were stuck anyway, I'm just going to replace both rear calipers. In the meantime, I pulled the seats & started on the upholstery replacement & foam repair

edge molding to hopefully slow down the foam damage moving forward

Reinforced backing to keep the foam together.

new seat heater grids

upper

seat pad upholstery - really good fit. Couple hog rings in the middle

Also treated her to an upgraded fusebox using ATC fuses instead of the old bullet style from Wagonmeister. Wasn't cheap, however it's really well made. Had 3 extra positions added beyond the stock 16 fuses

fuses face straight back, so easier to access than the original diagonally set design

 

[pinguin]

That wagonmeister fuse panel is really something. It's not cheap, but it solves one of the biggest problems with these cars, and solves it well. I'll be getting another one when I start digging into the 242.

 

[lookforjoe]

So, the 140/240 series Volvos use yet another terminal that I need to get spares of. They are used in the cabin & only come in un-insulated version. Figured out today that they are NOT Molex as I had assumed for some years, but actually AMP/TE .140" "Mate-N-Lok" series.

925661 & 925662. 925712 & 925713 are reputedly the same terminal (but cheaper/more readily available), but without the pre-crimped locating ring between the wire crimp & sheath crimp

More work on the back end. Fitted the earlier metal louvred exhaust cover

cleaned out the rear wells

minor surface rust (treated) on the left, where the spare wheel resides

Tail lamps & new gaskets installed, located my stash of NOS bulb sockets with perfect contacts, new 1156 & 1157 bulbs installed

Roof rack slats removed. May or may not remove the entire rack. It will all go away eventually anyway.

DS front fender & 1/4 body side trim blacked out to match the others

rear mudflaps & valance removed, 1/4 cleaned of tape residue. body plugs located & ordered in 16mm ID to fill the 2 large holes on each side used to anchor the late wrap around trim/valance I removed

Rear mudflaps will be the early rubber version, so this late bracket needs to be modified and/or removed to fit the early bracket

Used Rustoleum trim & bumper paint to refurbish the bleached grey lower side trim,. Ultimately I will likely remove it all, in keeping with the nose treatment since pre-86 did not have it

 

[krenekj]

Added 40A fuse at the battery for the distribution box

What fuse block did you use? I'm looking for a high-quality fuse box for my 93 to replace some fuses right on the battery terminal.

 

[lookforjoe]

What fuse block did you use? I'm looking for a high-quality fuse box for my 93 to replace some fuses right on the battery terminal.

It's an MTA product. Well made & very inexpensive. MTA 0300839 in case the link doesn't work. Only about $20(!).
Connector ID is the sole vendor as far as I can determine.
You will need to buy the crimp terminals and fuses, those don't come with. They are all listed on the item page so you can see what you need.

Also, I used a positive battery disconnect, bent at 90 degrees. That came off Amazon

 

[lookforjoe]

Replaced the clock with a large tach - installed the accessory 52mm clock. Took the cluster apart to install a temp compensator board bypass - now the coolant gauge works

Tach has a branch outlet to feed accessory gauge ground, lighting & constant if applicable (needed for the clock of course)

added trim rings to delineate the gauges

Went to install the Momo hub & realized I have to get a non-SRS horn ring/stalk holder assembly

 

[pinguin]

Is that branch outlet plug the same as an H4 bulb? I need to recreate one, and they look similar

 

[lookforjoe]

Is that branch outlet plug the same as an H4 bulb? I need to recreate one, and they look similar

No, I wish. It's much smaller. I had a pair from an old 240turbo cluster, so I made the branch harness from that

 

[lookforjoe]

Got an early horn ring/stalk hub

epoxied the insulator

cleaned & painted

Installed the wagonmeister snow caps

Ran the foglamp feed wire through the firewall conduit. swapped out the plain boot for one from a V70 - allows for multiple wire groups

other end

cleaned, painted, caulked, painted & undercoated the rear body panel . This car is not rusted out along the pinch weld, so I want to keep it in good shape

Finished the install of the handbrake shoes, rear rotors, calipers, pads. I had ordered new cables however these are in great shape. Also installed overload springs, poly bushed torque rods & the rear IPD sway bar

Finally, assembled the rear bumper & installed it, drilling new mount holes for the end straps in the 1/4 panels

 

[lookforjoe]

Finished the foglamp install - wired a harness to feed the switch, relay & output to lamps. I had an original front foglamp switch

Volvo (Bosch) 1504952 relay

Ground (SB) was previously for seat heaters, power (Y-SB) was SRS (switched)

Relay tucked behind knee bolster support bracket

May have to add some color inside the switch - the green is kinda washed out

Re-wired the cruise stalk (1363819) for the later module. Pins 3 & 4 on the late 3523536 stalk are reversed compared to -89 cruise module that my stalk is intended for

Pre-wired I/O connector for cruise install - I had to pull the cluster to look in there to find it

Module with sub harness 3523537

receiver on the module harness for the stalk

Pre-wired Vacuum pump harness needs repair

Still have to install the bobbin, vacuum pump & diaphragm

Going to put an original Volvo head unit back in

 

[lookforjoe]

Put the pass seat-back together, seat heater grid installed, lumbar support installed, new upholstery installed. Cut holes for the lumbar adjust and the headrest. Added seat height adjuster frame I took from the 83 245 parts car I got the nose panels from

 

[lookforjoe]

Worked on the front speakers (4" pioneers) today, which involved repairing the speaker brackets, as those retain the speaker cover, and since those are intact, I want to keep it original. Forgot to take pic of the repair & end result

After that, I worked on the rear mudflap install
I took a couple pics of my friends 81 245 rear flaps, to use as a placement guide for the brackets
Note the splitting of the rubber above the bolt. They ALWAYS tear eventually, so the late molded plastic ones are actually much more durable, but won't work for me with the old bumper install

I had to shave the rubber on both aftermarket flaps to get them to align with the rear tub, and drill. a new mount hole to align with the Volvo brackets

The original old style brackets were welded in place. I drilled & bolted them

To hopefully reduce the likelihood of the rubber tearing prematurely, I made stainless plates to sandwich the rubber, rather than have it hanging off the bolts as they were. Took some back & forth th get the bracket correctly situated to make sure the mudflap would be level when viewed from the rear.

I used M6 riv-nuts to make installing easier.

Welded the bracket bolts in place, or it would be quite fiddly to install

inside rear tub, M6 nuts

cut off the late flap brackets

In place

I'm happy with where I cut the profile of flap to fit the rear tub

Pretty level

After that I tack welded the fuel level assembly back on to the feed tube on this low mileage replacement sender. I need to replace mine as the fuel gauge does not work

 

[lookforjoe]

Speaker bracket repair. Glued together with styrene cement

Figured out where to install the remote entry module - stuffed behind the driver's side air vent, so the antenna goes up the A pillar trim, along with the system status LED

Removed the air duct work, as I also need to do the power brake booster, and this makes it easier to see what I'm getting to

While I'm in wiring mode I ran the seat heater harness, drilled the console for the switches, figured out the relay location

Relay plugs in here

Used the new terminals I bought to match the factory ones, constant & switched power to the seat heater relay

supplied by Fuses #7 (30), #13 (15)

Added two extra circuits while I was in here - they terminate on the left of the console, where the other connections are. R = Fuse#3 (ACC). Gry-R = Fuse #13 (15)

Take I

Take II

illumination check

tied to rear ashtray light

function check - I di don't mark which was left or right...

Next I'll do the fusebox upgrade

 

[pinguin]

What remote entry module are you using?
Are those the switches that come with the wagonmeister heaters, or something else?

 

[lookforjoe]

The remote entry is Avital 3103L. The earlier one went in the 740 pickup. I don't really care about the alarm feature, I just use it for the remote entry.

The seat heaters come from AliExpress. The complete kit was about $30. I bought a couple of them to have spare, in case the relays went bad etc. Now they are up to 50 bucks a set

 

[2 old for this]

I used Linkr LT in my Bertone.Cellphone startup.

 

[lookforjoe]

Little things today.
Made a bracket to mount the Cruise vacuum pump, no frame of reference, so I just made something that works OK & clears the hood
Goes here

Had to notch the hood seal to make sure no vibration transfer

Add quick connect fittings for the intake side connection , and throttle body EVAP connections while I'm there

Put the fancy Wagonmeister fusebox in

 

[nedc]

I admire your way of doing things- not just the 'right' way, but often better than right. Those quick disconnect fittings on the intake being a good example. Where did you source those?

 

[lookforjoe]

I admire your way of doing things- not just the 'right' way, but often better than right. Those quick disconnect fittings on the intake being a good example. Where did you source those?

Thank you. Those I used to buy from McMasterCarr, however they are readily available on Amazon, eBay, etc.
6mm or 1/4" tube end, 1/8" NPT threaded, except for the EVAP which is 1/4" NPT and I think 5/16" or 3/8" tube.

Installed the passenger seat

Worked on the brake booster job after that. 4 nuts inside, 2 holding the MC in the bay, and that's it. However, I did remove the cluster & air ducts to make it easier for me to see down in there.
Drivers side pretty easy access

Pass side of the booster, I went in through the cluster opening with 2 wobble extensions & the 13mm socket

MC unbolted from the booster

Booster removed. There is an harness they routed around the inside of the booster, then back over to the left inner strut. I need to move that, as it is in the way of the cruise diaphragm location

With the booster out, it was easier to install the cruise diaphragm which mounts down on the intake behind the TPS,bolts go in from underneath.

Harness relocated & re-wrapped. Also ran the vacuum tube that will feed the boost gauge, and the tubing for the cruise brake switch

Booster not going back yet, I found this on the back of the MC

So, I moved on to the water pump replacement. Fan blade out, shroud out, pump off

Vacillating on doing the timing belt while I'm here. Wasn't planning on doing more than the fan belts until I found the pump leaking. Timing belt looks good, no cracks...... however it's from 2008 and sat for 10+ years
Main coolant leak was from here - cylinder head pump seal seat

then the branch pipe seal

Impeller looks great but.... overall state of the pump is this

Pump in

Hopefully get it back together tomorrow, as long as the correct ABS MC (8251131) shows up on time from FCP

 

[lookforjoe]

Thermostat mount flange is surprisingly good shape

New T/stat, cleaned the housing

Only had a 740 upper rad hose, so I cut down either end to fit it

NOS lower rad hose 463306

Cuise bobbin - the LH version I had was from a 740 - on a 240 apparently the offset is different & I had to mod the one I had

First I tried to drill out the welds so I could just swap over the spindles, that didn't work out.

so, I cut off the mount ear & the offset tube from the lower attachment point (not shown)

All good now, cables set & adjusted to spec - put the brake booster back in

Looked at a 93 245 that a friends son has for sale - way too much rust to be worth what he hopes to see for it,
All the way across the back & up the D pillars

but it did have cruise so I got to see how the vacuum pump was (factory) installed