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93 240 Pickup Project Ruby

DET17 said:
Nice fan conversion.... that 960 fan just about swallows up that 2 series radiator. What temp set points does the BMW contacts close at, presumably low and high?

I ran some Conti belts for a while, and they were crap. I run now OE belts (if you can find them) and real GATES.
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I don't recall the values - I'll look it up. The low speed comes on right as the operating temp clicks a tick over normal, and shuts off after less than a minute.
Glad to hear I'm not the only one with Conti quality issues.

Finished the fan shroud today. Cut the original end cap down & rejoined it to make sure the shroud seals against the rad,
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added buffers to the angle brackets at the base, to keep the shroud tight against the rad
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Fan relay location
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Why do you need a BMW switch? How does the original Volvo electric fan works?

Sorry for my ignorance...
 
Bilbo19 said:
Why do you need a BMW switch? How does the original Volvo electric fan works?

Sorry for my ignorance...
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Good question!
The engine management on a 240, lh 2.4 in this case- does not have a provision to control an e-fan. Wiring diagrams below are for the 960, and then the 940 SE. The 960 uses input from the EMS, and the AC pressure switches to control the two speeds of the fan. The 940 SE uses the older style fan in front of the radiator and the radiator thermostat switch. Later versions of the lh24 used in the 900 series turbos, incorporates fan speed signals (grounds) to govern the two speeds of the fan.
Using an external (to the ECU) thermostat to control the two speeds, is the easiest solution for cars that do not have it integrated into the EMS- which is going to be the case for any car you would be adding this fan to.
The exception here would be if you were also converting the 240 to a turbo, and using the 940 turbo ecu's that have the fan speed controller.
Volvo never offered a switch of this type, so looking for an alternate manufacturer that used it was required.
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Worked on the 92 245 I welded the frame rail on. Something let loose in the rear end. I already knew the shocks were blown out, and the front strut mounts were shot, so I did those first

Front - Volvo tools used - I've had since early 80's
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Rear shocks - had to use the torch to get the rusted nuts off everything
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Test drove it - didn't anything until I went over a bump - nasty noise from the rear
Looking around
trailing arm bushings(!)
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But.... this is what was the issue - everything has so many layers of rust, I didn't even realize what had gone on here at first
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I bought a pair of control arms recently - I figured I would need them eventually
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Had to come up with a spring seat retainer cup
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Bit the bullet on RedBlockPowered chips for the swap. Stage 2 -
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I have the 025 3" MAF (thread with some discussion), 954 & gold EZK. Either 15g or 19T will go in. Stock turbo cam - have to look into these listed options
KL IC. Volvo green 42lb injectors, 3" - to 2.5" DP I will fab.

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Washer tank arrived, thank you @ 2manyturbos :)
Will be used when I do the +T install
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example install - Matt LeRoux's Black '93 245 LH2.4 B230FT
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Cleaning up a couple of TD04HL cartridges.
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What's critical is that the oil passage is clear - light visible com ing through
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Get yourself a U-sonic parts cleaner if you don't already have one. Such a joy to pull out those sparkling Swedish parts before reassembly.

Lots of used medical grade cleaners on eBay; a lot of bang for the buck.
 
DET17 said:
Get yourself a U-sonic parts cleaner if you don't already have one. Such a joy to pull out those sparkling Swedish parts before reassembly.

Lots of used medical grade cleaners on eBay; a lot of bang for the buck.
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I don't - I'll have to look at that. My go to is a bucket of gasoline 🤪
 
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