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'95 960 goes T5

The engine management of choice is Maxxecu with its own relay box. Also moved the battery to the spare wheel well. And I need a battery shut-off switch as well... ok-ok but where do I put all this stuff??
The first idea was to bend up some alu plates and hide things (mostly) to the glovebox. Pass side airbag was faulty anyway so it gave space for mounting plates. Before you say that the cut off switch should be easily reachable by the driver when strapped in... yeah. I know... anyway... there were many iterations of this, but ultimately I ditched it.
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So I bought a 3d printer.
Designed a 1din mount that fits under the radio and houses the ECU
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These pieces were riveted onto the radio cage, threaded inserts to mount stuff
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This is the result
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There is going to be a faceplate covering the whole thing
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So with that, the ECU was mounted, and the next task was the relay box and cutoff switch.
I printed a plate that mounts to the airbag mounting holes has a housing for the cutoff switch and holds the relay box. (small vid how it goes together)
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The lid will be secured with a hinge and magnets. Have a plan, not done, yet.
 
I'll be running drive-by-wire throttle which meant I needed to mount a v70 pedal. Of course, I had to make it complicated...
Designed a mount that allows adjustment to the pedal to achive maximum heel-n-toe action :D
Sooo unnecessary.. but the pedal can be pivoted up or down and moved from side to side. Feels good. This is laser cut metal, not 3D printed.
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Next on the list was to mount an oil cooler and the intercooler
I decided to mount an oil filter relocation kit... I'm not 100% satisfied with this. Will see how it performs.
Designed a mount for the remote oil filter housing
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Used rubber AN10 lines, PTFE just wouldn't bend enough
This where the water cooled oil sandwich plate was originally. Now.. this is my issue. These 2 fittings are extremely close to being the lowest point of the car. I'm itching to rework this bit, but for now, it has to stay and I'll be extremely careful..
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Welded up some square stock to mount up to existing holes on the rad support / slam panel, whatever it is called.
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Fabbed up the cold side IC piping (3") with IAT sensor and a BOV
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Hot side is still in progress...
 
Engine mounts!
Stock hydro mounts were shot. I also had the brilliant idea of chassis mounting the shifter. This meant that the engine shouldn't move around much to avoid stress on the shifter mechanism. So I bought some universal Strongflex mounts... these are basically hard mounting the engine to the subframe, don't be fooled by the red bits, they allow ZERO movement... not so great. It would shake my teeth out.
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Friend of mine suggested to use Silver project mounts, that's what he uses on his V8 turbo and its great.
So alongside the mounts, I bought a 3D scanner as well... again, overcomplicating. It's a Creality Lizard, backed it in Kickstarter. Good for smaller stuff... anyway. Scanned the OEM mounts and designed new ones to fit the silver project mounts, which were designed for a e30. Also, it was kind of a necessity, too. The new exhaust manifold baaaarely fit, had to grind the OEM mount for clearance. And the OEM mounts (parts that are mounted to the block) break really easy..
Scan of the OEM mounts
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The new design
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And the final product
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Next was the lengthy process of the exhaust manifold. For a while, I tried to make one on my own, but realized it was not going to happen, instead, I paid (a lot) for a guy who does this for a living. Took him a while, but after all I'm happy with the product. Although 1-2 two months later "The kangaroos team" announced their cast manifold for the fraction of what I paid... oh well... mine is more baller looking I guess...

Anyway, turbo is a BorgWarner S200SX-E with a 0.83 housing. Should be good to 650hp, which is NOT my goal on a bone stock T6 :D Intentionally kept the hot side small for response over top-end... but running into a stock rod problem where I don't want to pump too much air into the cylinders down low... we will see how long the engine will live :D
Part #: 12769095003
Comp. Wheel Inducer Dia. (mm) 57.15
Comp. Wheel Outer Dia. (mm) 76.20

Its a twin scroll, so decided to have dual wastegate.. oh boy. I should've gone with a merged 60mm WG. Packaging is TIGHT now. 2x 38mm or 44mm, don't remember now TIAL copy gates rebuilt with genuine TIAL internals. They are plumbed back to the downpipe.

Not pictured are a set of flow paired siemens deka 870cc injectors. FPR is a aeromotive copy rebuild with genuine aeromtive internals. Fuel pump is a genuine TI Automotive (walbro) 450LPH. Fuel lines are stock (for now), but replaced the filter - fuel rail section with AN6 PTFE line.
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Heat management is going to be a b#tch...
 
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Update time.
Decided to go with the Alfa 159 brake calipers, so one more set of calipers to the collection...
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Finished the intercooler piping
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Built a 3" SS exhaust with two mufflers
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The rent prices went up so much that it was no longer "financially acceptable" to have a place like this for a hobby, so we had to give it up. Found a new place but it's a LOT smaller, around 25 square meters. Which is barely bigger than the car :( ... anyway. At least this gave me a strict deadline to finish the car. Which I did!
Then disaster struck, multiple disasters actually.
Started up the car with the exhaust manifold in place and noticed there was a huge puddle of oil under the car after just a few seconds of running.
It seemed like the oil pan was not sealed correctly. Dropped the subframe, removed the pan, replaced some O-rings, and resealed the pan. Started up, still the same, oil flowing out. WTF? Checked on the oil pressure, was around 8 bar ~116psi ON IDLE. Ouch.
opening the oil filler cap you would expect oil splashing around on a running engine. Nope, not here, barely any oil was there.
Not too uncommon for whiteblock oil pumps to get gummed up when in storage for a long time, and I bought this engine 6-7 years ago.
This happened about a week before the deadline for the move. Kind of panicked I bought an engine that was not too long ago in a car, running.
It arrived like this. Thats way too much work to make it work... so I have now a spare engine..
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Bought some liqui molly engine flush which solved the oil pressure issue, fingers crossed the engine not hurt due to running without proper lubrication, especially the head. What a relief, right?
Nope.
Something was weird, it sounded like it has a big leak... I mean open manifold, but still, sounded weird. And since there is nothing else in the exhaust, but the manifold at the moment, it should be loose bolts, right?
Nope.
See something interesting here? The soot around the exhaust ports? All 6 of them?
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Yes, the flange was welded on upside-down. Don't mind the exhaust wrap, this was my first try...
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God bless volvo engineers :D
Soo, that was a bummer. There was no way I could drive the car out of the gate under its own power.
A few months passed by, manifold was re-welded, fixed a few other things, and this is where I'm now:
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Drove it after 4 years. Was great. Sounds great. Not tuned, yet, so took it easy.
2 things that need immediate fixing before dyno tune
  • Oil is still leaking, but much less than before. Not sure if the oil pump gasket is shot due to the high oil pressure or messed up the oil pan seal again, which I doubt...
  • Driveshaft bearing/carrier is dead, makes a really .... interesting sound.

 
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