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Adjustable camgears for whiteblocks.

I thought they were adjustable from the factory.

They are already adjustable. +/- 8 degrees IIRC. You just have to print out a gauge to mark them, or use a protractor and mark them yourself. I think each tooth was 8.57 degrees. ;-)

But...your link just sends me to a blank page on their site...I don't see any gears??
 
They are already adjustable. +/- 8 degrees IIRC. You just have to print out a gauge to mark them, or use a protractor and mark them yourself. I think each tooth was 8.57 degrees. ;-)

But...your link just sends me to a blank page on their site...I don't see any gears??

I think someone on VS sells a kit to mark the factory gears, it was pretty cheap and looked pretty decent.
 
QBM no longer exists as such. You can print this & glue it to some stiff card

Camgeartool.jpg


Just make sure to punch out holes accurately. Prybar as lever between loosened bolts.
 
Has anyone ever tried advancing the timing on a white block? And if so what results? I know redblocks take pretty good to some timing advance

The stock cam gears are slotted. You can advance or retard both cams. Typically turbos run more advance, NA more retard.

Not much noticeable difference in my experience. Stock Turbo setting is typically 4-5? EXH adv & 0? INT. Moving the cam timing up just shifts the power band downstream.
 
Thread bump. Does anyone have the qbm user's guide for the adjustment tool? I used to have it and remember it having some recommended settings for various engines. It appears the website is down and I can no longer download the pdf. I want to time my s90, but can't remember what it said for NA engines.
 
so i have a B5254S. (N/A 5cyl. LH 3.2, ithink lol) what kinda gain could i expect from tweaking cams? and does that head have non-interfering valve clearance?
 
This is not rocket science. Make a timing pointer with a strip of sheetmetal, a drill, some tin snips, and a punch. it's like 3 cents worth of sheetmetal.

Additionally, it really doesn't matter if the marks are exactly 1 or 2 degrees apart or just an arbitrary small distance. The marks are more a point of reference so you can see what results you get at what "setting" - the actual degrees doesn't matter a whole heck of a lot.
 
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