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All you need to know about the M90

  • Thread starter Thread starter frpe82
  • Start date Start date
Does anybody know if the 850R flywheel will work with the Motronic 1.8 sensor in my '91 960?

I did read that the M90 swap would work with any 5/6 cylinder whiteblock, but I just want some clarity.

I have a donor '95 960 with an M90 and the 850R Clutch Kit on its way so its just the flywheel that I need to source now!! :)
 
Are there any photos of what this welding of the third gear synchro in an M90 s all about on here still? In the first part of this thread the photos are no longer there. I can't get my head around what this mod is exactly, I suspect the term synchro ring is perhaps ambiguous? Thanks
 
I searched a bit through this thread and couldn't find a specific answer and now time is of the essence. I have my m90 mounted into my 93 945t, I have an M47 front half driveshaft since it mounts to the m90. I want to confirm the m47 driveshaft will properly fit into the back half of the auto driveshaft; splines, carrier location, etc.

My intent is to have the m47 shaft lengthened to fit the m90
 
gilber33 said:
I searched a bit through this thread and couldn't find a specific answer and now time is of the essence.

My intent is to have the m47 shaft lengthened to fit the m90
Click to expand...

I have the front half specific M90 prop shaft.... PM me if you want OAL dims, etc. The donor was of course a 9 series in the UK.... should be exactly what you need.
 
gilber33 said:
I searched a bit through this thread and couldn't find a specific answer and now time is of the essence. I have my m90 mounted into my 93 945t, I have an M47 front half driveshaft since it mounts to the m90. I want to confirm the m47 driveshaft will properly fit into the back half of the auto driveshaft; splines, carrier location, etc.

My intent is to have the m47 shaft lengthened to fit the m90
Click to expand...

This might work? Cheaper than getting my shaft lengthened for my 240 M90 swap (around here anyway), might work for a 9 series?

http://www.retroturbo.com/?product=vrs-m90-box-to-m47-driveshaft-link-for-volvo-200-series
 
Just to update. Around me there was one place who could do it, and it was going to run 300 plus because they would need to ship it elsewhere to have it balanced. Instead of hassling with that I bought a complete m90 driveshaft from ebay Germany for 300 shipped.
 
Can someone help with a couple of M90 questions please?

I have a B5254T3 engine, and an M90 gearbox.

First question... do I need a spigot bearing in the end of the crank when I mate the two together? There's nothing there at the moment, but other non-Volvo engines I've worked on needed one.

jul%2028%20-%207.jpg


Also, the engine came with a box of stuff which included a rusty flywheel. It fits onto the engine OK, so I've had it zinc plated and fitted it to the engine. I'm not sure what type it is, so I'm not sure which clutch I should buy.

jul%2022%20-%204.jpg


jul%2028%20-%209.jpg


Any advice welcome, thanks!
 
Hi TB!

I just installed an M90 in my 1993 945T and I can't get the clutch to disengage. What's the best way to adjust the engagement point of the clutch?

In 1st gear with the rear end off the ground, the wheels spin the same even if the clutch pedal is fully depressed.

The clutch setup is off another TBer's 945T, with a flat flywheel, 850 clutch disc, and a pressure plate - though I couldn't say which one (I imagine it came with the flat flywheel). Since its last installation, the clutch disc was replaced (damaged in shipping) and the flywheel was refaced.

The clutch fork sticks out of the bellhousing perpendicular to the input shaft, and the pivot ball is already spaced on 4 washers. The slave cylinder rod is ~4 inches long. With the slave installed, the throwout bearing rests against the pressure plate. With the clutch pedal fully depressed, the slave moves the clutch fork ~1cm.

The hydraulic system was bled by pressing the pedal & bleeding the slave. I tried a reverse pressure bleed but it didn't go anywhere.

The master cylinder rod that attaches to the clutch pedal will spin, but that doesn't appear to adjust the rod length.

Where should I start adjusting? I can post a video of the clutch actuating if it would help with diagnosis!

Thank you!
 
I would really really really bleed the clutch. I did a Mini Cooper transmission recently and it called for a special tool to compress the slave cylinder during bleeding and I was, like, " I don't need that ****!" And I was wrong. Couldn't get the cclutch to relase. Wouldn't even go into gear. I made a special tool, rebleed, and got it to work.


I doubt you could even smash a dog dish pressure plate against a flat wheel, but maybe.

Plate could also have bent or worn fingers. A fresh one should have been installed.


I forget exact spec for clutch pedal throw, but 1 cm may not be enough.
 
Just wondering if I can pick your collective brains? :)

So, I'm building a 240 with a T6 and whiteblock M90.

What would the best clutch set up be for 370-400bhp and 460ishNm?

850t5 240mm solid flywheel with shorter bolts.
850r clutch and a either a 850r pressure plate or Sachs 707 (is this a direct bolt on fit?).
Maintain the original external slave cylinder, fork and bearing or go to a concentric slave?

Is there a better set-up that doesn't cost the earth?

Any recommendations for UK suppliers?

I'm waiting to hear back from TTV.

Cheers for your help. :)
 
Mule said:
Just wondering if I can pick your collective brains? :)

So, I'm building a 240 with a T6 and whiteblock M90.

What would the best clutch set up be for 370-400bhp and 460ishNm?

850t5 240mm solid flywheel with shorter bolts.
850r clutch and a either a 850r pressure plate or Sachs 707 (is this a direct bolt on fit?).
Maintain the original external slave cylinder, fork and bearing or go to a concentric slave?

Is there a better set-up that doesn't cost the earth?

Any recommendations for UK suppliers?

I'm waiting to hear back from TTV.

Cheers for your help. :)
Click to expand...

Tilton or Quarter Master concentric release for sure, forks are like carburettors, history. Much better pedal feel, effort and reliability. Avoid ceramettalic clutch plates for a road driven car if you can find an organic plate and cover to handle the torque. Use a sprung centre plate. On a budget look at using a Saab or Ford concentric release, but you may spend the savings getting stuff made to fit them onto the bellhousing unless you have machining facilities FOC.
 
Chris Wilson said:
Tilton or Quarter Master concentric release for sure, forks are like carburettors, history. Much better pedal feel, effort and reliability. Avoid ceramettalic clutch plates for a road driven car if you can find an organic plate and cover to handle the torque. Use a sprung centre plate. On a budget look at using a Saab or Ford concentric release, but you may spend the savings getting stuff made to fit them onto the bellhousing unless you have machining facilities FOC.
Click to expand...

Cheers for the information.

Concentric master cylinder it is then. I'll have a look at the ones you recommend but maybe I can go Volvo 850?

Just thought I would clarify. I don't mind the prices of Volvo and Sachs new, so don't mind spending a few ???. I'm not in the position to spend on a custom clutch I don't think.

I think the 850R organic plate will be fine. It's more the pressure plate really and what's best.
 
Last edited:
Hi! Where on M90 I can find identification plate? I found number 6942485 on back side, it enough for detect modification M90?
 
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