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Aluminum 3 Row Radiator

CaliMeatWagon

CaliMeatWagon

Cause of Head Scratching
Joined
Jun 29, 2011
Location
Stockton, California
I need to replace my radiator on my 91 745Ti as the all metal one I bought on here is already failing. The end cap solder started leaking and I had to get it fixed, and when the shop was cleaning it they were able to easily blow out some of the vanes.
Ideally I would like to go for an all aluminum 3 row radiator,
I found this one on Ebay and it looks to be what I'm looking for. It is about 3/8 narrower in the core than my current all metal one.
The core dimensions for it are 17 3/4"×16"× 1 5/8", it's advertised as 3 row, it looks like it has all of the correct connections for an auto transmission and for the temp sensor, and it's only $190.

Just curious if anybody has any experience with this company, or if they see a warning in the listing I didn't catch, or if they have a better alternative.
https://ebay.io/m/Lv2NBC
https://ebay.io/m/Lv2NBC
 
Looks like the ones sold on Ali Express/Temu etc...

No personal experience as I got the "Tropic" rad from speeding parts. Very happy with that.
 
It looks like one i bought from ebay, but i’ll have to dig a bit to find it.
The only bad thing was it was banged up by the time i got it, so they refunded $60.
 
I went with a couple of those ebay/amazon ones on the Dodge, had to return both due to either completely fubar'd cores or failed welds. Ended up with a Griffin. Keep in mind, some of the 2-core's actually flow more than a 3 as they have larger cores. That Griffin is 2 1" wide cores, vs the 3 1/2" wide cores, with the same fin density.

Take a look at KL Racing as well. Seems like they had decent radiators without the do88 pricing. I've been looking to go down the 92+ setup at some point since mine will get hot if I lean on it too hard with the AC on during the summer. I cannot run the AC coming over the pass if it's over 90, even with the fan on high.
 
gsellstr said:
I went with a couple of those ebay/amazon ones on the Dodge, had to return both due to either completely fubar'd cores or failed welds. Ended up with a Griffin. Keep in mind, some of the 2-core's actually flow more than a 3 as they have larger cores. That Griffin is 2 1" wide cores, vs the 3 1/2" wide cores, with the same fin density.

Take a look at KL Racing as well. Seems like they had decent radiators without the do88 pricing. I've been looking to go down the 92+ setup at some point since mine will get hot if I lean on it too hard with the AC on during the summer. I cannot run the AC coming over the pass if it's over 90, even with the fan on high.
Click to expand...

Do you remember how much the Griffin solution cost you?

@AnthonyHardy2 keeps pushing me to go down that path as well, but I just bought do88 intake/ intercooler hoses and plan on running the NPR intercooler.
 
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if you use an independent trans cooler then your options would open up to use basically anything that would fit.

I would be worried about internal welds leaking into the trans cooler on those china radiators
 
The griffin setup I'm referring to was on the Dodge, so not really applicable on that front, other than tech wise.

I'm with Jeff, I don't run the cooler in the radiator, but rather a 12x12 bar/plate cooler. I have enough issues with coolant temp, don't need MORE heat in there. lol
 
CaliMeatWagon said:
@AnthonyHardy2 keeps pushing me to go down that path as well, but I just bought do88 intake/ intercooler hoses and plan on running the NPR intercooler.
Click to expand...
Running the biggest radiator you can fit makes the most sense when you're going to be making at least double stock HP and driving the car hard at high ambient temps. A large surface area radiator will always cool better than a small thick one given the same core volume.

Volvo even did all the cooling system engineering for you and you just need to figure out how to put a good intercooler in front of it.
 
dbarton said:
I'd like to here more on this.
Click to expand...
As the tube size increases the cross sectional area increases quadratically (assuming a circle for simplicity). A lower proportion of the coolant is actually in contact with the surface of the tube transferring energy to the air and fins. The volume of coolant flowing through increases, but the actual efficiency of the heat transfer doesn't get better.

I'm just guessing here.
 
I contacted the seller for more info and they're out of stock so that radiator is definitely out of the question even if there wasn't other concerns.

I need to replace my current radiator because the all metal one failed at the and tanks and the fins are somehow falling out. I got a cheap Nissen one for now.

But I want an upgraded one because I'm currently at 200 horsepower and will be over when I get the new engine in. And I'm driving it for 10 to 12 hours a day up and down steep mountain roads, sometimes at low speeds but higher RPMs, in 90-100 plus degree weather.

An example delivery would be spending 20 minutes in 1st and 2nd gear going up a barely s single lane, barely paved, switch back full road with about a 10% grade, while loaded with 12 big bags of mulch and a dozen pavers while it's 100° out.
 
spock345 said:
As the tube size increases the cross sectional area increases quadratically (assuming a circle for simplicity). A lower proportion of the coolant is actually in contact with the surface of the tube transferring energy to the air and fins. The volume of coolant flowing through increases, but the actual efficiency of the heat transfer doesn't get better.

I'm just guessing here.
Click to expand...
Good guess. That is precisely what is going on.
 
I can't wrap my head around this just yet. If you have 3x 3/8" round tubes, squishing them down to oval shouldn't change the surface area in contact with coolant that much. If you have 2x 3/4" tubes, wouldn't that be more surface area in contact with coolant, allowing for more heat transfer? This of course assumes the material, fin density and tube spacing is comparable.
 
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