Meatball
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2004
- Location
- Living in my 245
We're really off into uncharted waters here Bob.
Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here
Thank you for being a part of our community!

I think you have some of the scope probes set to INVerted, which makes your waveforms look different than previously.I have no idea why I get such different results each time I capture. I mean, the PICO is obviously a better scope. Hands down. But even using the PICO, I get errata in my signals. The signals don't line up, etc. I'm pretty sure that it is because of the fact that I'm driving the cam sensors and the transducer through a bench top power supply. I've got it set at 5V and 4A exactly. Maybe I need to ground it to the block? Also, I suppose putting the lead acid battery on my charger would be a good idea too.

That pattern is very similar to a B4204 MY2000-2004 cam signal. Took me a while to understand that camshaft is rotating at half speed...
Yes, it is easy forget when running a camless four-strokeIt's always 720* for each cam sequence.
Yes, it is easy forget when running a camless four-stroke
Normal valves operated by hydraulic cylinders.Rotary or direct valve control?


[I also found a more detailed description of the various Volvo engines from sweedspeed, versus the standard wikipedia writeup:
https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/volvo-petrol-engine-variants.684005/ ]
Unlike the 3.2-litre naturally aspirated SI6 engine, however, the turbocharged SI6 engine omitted the:
Variable Intake System (VIS); and,
Cam Profile Switching (CPS) system for variable intake valve lift.
B6304T4 engine (2010 update)...
In May 2010, Volvo announced that it had upgraded its T6 engine...
A low-friction accessory drive belt tensioner;
Engine management software that was optimised for fuel economy;
An aluminium water pump housing.
If you try the EcuMasters crank/cam/vvt diags and wizards, please post a couple pictures showing how that feature works.Thanks Jordan! These "new" Volvo engines sure are complicated compared to the old redblocks, but they do have some fascinating technology to squeeze out more performance while still within the emissions and reliability requirements.
Either version of the SI6, NA or Turbo, sure seems like an admirable challenge to get working from scratch with an aftermarket ECU and no example tunes to start with.

Two roads diverged in a yellow wood,
And sorry I could not travel both
And be one traveler, long I stood
And looked down one as far as I could
To where it bent in the undergrowth;
Then took the other, as just as fair,
And having perhaps the better claim,
Because it was grassy and wanted wear;
Though as for that the passing there
Had worn them really about the same,
And both that morning equally lay
In leaves no step had trodden black.
Oh, I kept the first for another day!
Yet knowing how way leads on to way,
I doubted if I should ever come back.
I shall be telling this with a sigh
Somewhere ages and ages hence:
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.
- Robert Frost
SI6
Turbo
Intake PN 30750001
Exhaust PN 30750002
Non turbo (S and S5 engines)
Intake PN 30731249
exhaust PN 30731248
Non turbo (S2 and S4 engines)
intake PN 30759892
Exhaust PN 30731248
I absolutely would NOT trust the VIDA parts diagrams for any actual information. They will show generic or wrong photo's all of the time.
View attachment 35416
I actually got a timing light. I gave my old one away about two years ago with my white 245.
This is what I have done for most of the day. Well, this and messing around with the dashboard. Getting a place for power, making a mounting fixture for the Raspberry Pi, etc. This is V1 of my crankshaft nose adapter that I hope will fit under the seal for the front of the engine. There is a spot in the middle left during manufacturing that is only rubber. I presume it is there to assist with removal. You normally only ever remove the seal to fit the crankshaft tool for rotating the engine. That tool is part of the timing chain kit. Anyway, the next step will be to print it and sit it under the seal. Then find some way to add degree indicators to the seal face for references. I might wind up having to recreate the seal to add the timing marks. We will see.
It was more work than should be necessary, I'm sure. It is definitely a challenge to go down a road that barely even exists, lol.
Like I was telling my dad earlier, I'd like to have a work with Frost...
I'm sure you're already aware of this. When mechanically setting the base timing of the engine with the special tools, you are NOT setting things to TDC. The pistons will be down the bores. I couldn't tell you any accurate readings.