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anybody mini tub or frame section the rear?

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I was mocking up my 9 inch tonight and with everything out, it looks like I can cut an inch out pretty easy of the rear frame rail for tire room. That gets it to the shock mount bolt I think. If I relocate the shock mount to the inside of the rail I could do several inches I think. The frame section must be 4 to 6 inches wide. I ve seen camaros done down to the sliver of the inside rail.....

Anybody cut away? I d like to see whats inside before I cut.
 
Bumping this up. Unfortunately the link no longer works. Anyone have into on relocating the rear shock to the inside of the frame rail?

I’m trying to mount some Mustang brakes on my 8.8” rear end and they stick way inside with the e-brake bracket. It then interferes with the shock. so I’m either going to move the shock, or machine the brake mounting plate so the caliper is positioned at the 12 o-clock position.

Before diving in, I’d love to hear if someone has already gone down the path of moving the shock and can share pics, suggestions, feedback, etc.
 
Don’t move it inboard at the top unless you move it to the rear, angled out to the axle. Otherwise you will have very little damping in any single wheel or roll situation.
 
here’s the thread linked above

D

Thread 'fitting 26"x10"-15" slicks volvo 240'

Hello!

As title says im going to fit some slicks on my volvo 240 in the rear. im just asking if anyone that have done it can tell if it needs any modification done to the inner body fender or if its enough to just stretch the outer fender and cut off that rack all the rust starts at?

what specs for rims? how wide and what offset you usually go with?

Very thankful for any help!

Best regards, David!
 
mikep said:
Don’t move it inboard at the top unless you move it to the rear, angled out to the axle. Otherwise you will have very little damping in any single wheel or roll situation.
Click to expand...

Help me understand. I think I’m missing something.
Are you saying that there would be an impact to the geometry just by moving it to the inner side of the frame rail? Even if it uses the same lower bolt (through the sway bar) and the same upper bolt (but on the inside).
From the side, it’s the same geometry. From the rear, it’s inboard and therefore has slightly less leverage so it’s require a slightly stiffer shock. Right?

Do you think the difference will be more that what can be compensated by clicking the shock one adjustment tighter?
 
Docsmitty said:
here’s the thread linked above

D

Thread 'fitting 26"x10"-15" slicks volvo 240'

Hello!

As title says im going to fit some slicks on my volvo 240 in the rear. im just asking if anyone that have done it can tell if it needs any modification done to the inner body fender or if its enough to just stretch the outer fender and cut off that rack all the rust starts at?

what specs for rims? how wide and what offset you usually go with?

Very thankful for any help!

Best regards, David!
Click to expand...
Thanks man!
 
toms_elleck said:
Help me understand. I think I’m missing something.
Are you saying that there would be an impact to the geometry just by moving it to the inner side of the frame rail? Even if it uses the same lower bolt (through the sway bar) and the same upper bolt (but on the inside).
From the side, it’s the same geometry. From the rear, it’s inboard and therefore has slightly less leverage so it’s require a slightly stiffer shock. Right?

Do you think the difference will be more that what can be compensated by clicking the shock one adjustment tighter?
Click to expand...
Ahead of the axle is a bad place to start with.
Trying to keep the lower shock mount outboard will probably make it bind in the lower arm. If you manage it with rod ends: In vert, both wheels, you lose effectiveness big time in terms of damping because of the angle.
One wheel moving, same. In roll, not so much. So there’s that.
If you move the lower mounting point inboard you lose (motion ratio)^2 big time for single wheel damping, even more so in roll.
 
mikep said:
Ahead of the axle is a bad place to start with.
Trying to keep the lower shock mount outboard will probably make it bind in the lower arm. If you manage it with rod ends: In vert, both wheels, you lose effectiveness big time in terms of damping because of the angle.
One wheel moving, same. In roll, not so much. So there’s that.
If you move the lower mounting point inboard you lose (motion ratio)^2 big time for single wheel damping, even more so in roll.
Click to expand...

I’m keeping the mounting points in front of the axle as factory. Same mounting points, just moved inwards. That should theoretically keep the force ratios the same, or technically really close to it. Right?

Wait a minute… I’m not trying to keep the lower mounting point outward. I’m taking about putting both mounting points inward. The lower mount will be inboard of the sway bar, using the same bolt location. I’ll get a longer grade 8 bolt, flip it around so the head is outside and the nut is inboard, make a spacer for inside the trailing arm,and slide the shock in place on the inboard side.

For the upper, I’ll drill a hole in the frame rail on the inboard side and do the same- Run a long bolt from the outside to the inside where it will stick out, tighten it down, slide the shock in place and tighten down a nut.

The result should be a totally vertical shock, inboard of the trailing arm rather than mounted inside the trailing arm. I’ll shim everything so it ends up vertical.

Should work, right? I can’t see a reason why not. Am I missing something?
 
The bolt will no longer be in double-shear, it will have a bending moment/force. The vertical damping will be the same if the car or axle move perfectly vertical. No roll or articulation. (Edit: NOT IN roll or single wheel hop)
 
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mikep said:
The bolt will no longer be in double-shear, it will have a bending moment/force. The vertical damping will be the same if the car or axle move perfectly vertical. No roll or articulation.
Click to expand...
Single shear shocks are super common in the majority of cars. And the upper mount is already single shear. With a class 8 hardware including bolts and washers/shims in place, I’m not really worried about it being single shear. My question is more about geometry.
 
Last edited:
D

Thread 'fitting 26"x10"-15" slicks volvo 240'

Hello!

As title says im going to fit some slicks on my volvo 240 in the rear. im just asking if anyone that have done it can tell if it needs any modification done to the inner body fender or if its enough to just stretch the outer fender and cut off that rack all the rust starts at?

what specs for rims? how wide and what offset you usually go with?

Very thankful for any help!

Best regards, David!
 
pinguin said:
D

Thread 'fitting 26"x10"-15" slicks volvo 240'

Hello!

As title says im going to fit some slicks on my volvo 240 in the rear. im just asking if anyone that have done it can tell if it needs any modification done to the inner body fender or if its enough to just stretch the outer fender and cut off that rack all the rust starts at?

what specs for rims? how wide and what offset you usually go with?

Very thankful for any help!

Best regards, David!
Click to expand...
Thanks dude!
 
Even though it's more expensive than reusing your shocks I think you'd be best off combining the shock and spring at the stock spring location with something like this and a modified trailing arm.

When BNE used to sell Koni rear coilover kits for 240s I think they were based off the Koni 30 series circle track shocks and you can get most of the stuff to make a coilover conversion for those from Summit or from Koni directly.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kon-30-5325
 
toms_elleck said:
Single shear shocks are super common in the majority of cars. And the upper mount is already single shear. With a class 8 hardware including bolts and washers/shims in place, I’m not really worried about it being single shear. My question is more about geometry.
Click to expand...
In single shear they usually have a taper with a big shoulder. Do what you want, you asked so i covered the bases.
The geometry will suck in roll.
 
AnthonyHardy2 said:
Even though it's more expensive than reusing your shocks I think you'd be best off combining the shock and spring at the stock spring location with something like this and a modified trailing arm.

When BNE used to sell Koni rear coilover kits for 240s I think they were based off the Koni 30 series circle track shocks and you can get most of the stuff to make a coilover conversion for those from Summit or from Koni directly.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kon-30-5325
Click to expand...
That’s really helpful, thanks.

I have about 10 years of abuse on my Bilstein HDs, which feel a bit tired lately. I was already considering to koni race shocks. Seems like the perfect time to bite the bullet and convert to a true coil over.
 
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