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Anyone try the STS Machining Lift Kit?

culberro said:
I haven't had to use any adjustable links with a slight (1-1.5in) lift when everything is in OK shape. Usually lowering the car creates more driveline issues. Biggest off-road type tires I've ran are 195/70r15 rally tires. These clear a stock height car without issue.
MRF ZDM3

What tires are you looking at running? The tire size you posted doesn't bring up a lot of options but 205/60R16 does:
- Falken Wildpeak Trail. Awesome tire (I'm on my 2nd set on the awd daily) and they should fit withouut issue:

- Vredestein Grip Classic. It's a good bit taller, but it's a classic off-road style tire :love1:
Click to expand...
The Falkens are my go-to. Run a set on the lady’s crosstrek and had a set on my lifted outback XT.
 
I run Yokohama Geolanders 235/75/15, 30" diameter. Yes I had to open up the wheel wells, got fender flares to finish it off (my wife found them on the internet). I dropped the front mounts for the rear trailing arms 3" , that gave me another 1&1/2" rear lift, it also centered the wheel,
also dropped the panhard mount also to get the bar level again. Had to reset the pinion angle, adj torque arms.
These were mods that I did to improve the BDW Kit. Going on 4 years now, no problems
 
283SD said:
I run Yokohama Geolanders 235/75/15, 30" diameter. Yes I had to open up the wheel wells, got fender flares to finish it off (my wife found them on the internet). I dropped the front mounts for the rear trailing arms 3" , that gave me another 1&1/2" rear lift, it also centered the wheel,
also dropped the panhard mount also to get the bar level again. Had to reset the pinion angle, adj torque arms.
These were mods that I did to improve the BDW Kit. Going on 4 years now, no problems
Click to expand...
K, cool. They aren’t talking about the kit which isn’t available anymore.
 
I just ordered the STS kit for my 245, was going to use Diesel Springs for the front and already have overload springs in the rear, but i don't think that will cut it with the 215/65R16 Geolanders on Hydras I intend on using. I have an IPD Adjustable Panhard rod and torque rods also going in.
 
guys I got my STS kit last month for my 93 estate and just starting to install it, after my mechanic friend
install the front top plate, he found that at full droop, the top of the lower control arm is touching the bolts around the knuckle ball joint. Looks like if the car is turning and hitting a speed bump they will be hitting each other.

Also it's almost impossible to attach the tie-rod end and looks like its at a strange angle.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated!

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goroplayground said:
guys I got my STS kit last month for my 93 estate and just starting to install it, after my mechanic friend
install the front top plate, he found that at full droop, the top of the lower control arm is touching the bolts around the knuckle ball joint. Looks like if the car is turning and hitting a speed bump they will be hitting each other.

Also it's almost impossible to attach the tie-rod end and looks like its at a strange angle.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...

I don't think you will have any issues when in use. Our rally cars do the same thing due to their excessive droop travel, they will actually bottom out some ball joints! Of note, the first batch of STS top mounts had the left and right swapped. This resulted in the incorrect camber correction and positive camber at ride height. The strut top mounts should offset the top of the strut towards the engine bay slightly for proper alignment with the lift.

The swap bar end links are a pain, the way volvo designed the the sway bar makes them a real PITA to work around at times.
 
badvlvo said:
Assuming the rear shocks are longer installed and with a longer stroke, that looks like a good place to start.

Control arm angle isn't a problem at this height, a basic alignment will solve lots of problems.

Always considering replacing the Cayenne with the right 245, but the right 245 has gotten much harder to find. Once I do, it will likely be this lift with lower gears and LSD in the rear, and spherical bearings everywhere possible to allow it to articulate without bind.
Click to expand...
There's multiple "right 245" for sale right now in classifieds. stop giving excuses to not get another 240
 
I attempted to install the STS 1.5-inch lift yesterday. The instructions are fairly sparse, and this is really my first experience doing suspension work.

In the rear, with the increased shock length, the shock travel appears to exceed the travel of the springs, even with the spacers installed. At full droop, the springs come off the upper perch. The increased articulation also puts noticeable strain on the brake lines.

Are these conditions expected, and do I simply need to compensate for them, or have I missed something during the installation?

I also have a question about the front lift spacers. Is the installation simply a matter of dropping the strut, placing the spacer on top, and bolting everything back up to the strut tower?

After doing that, the top of the strut now sits about 1.5 inches below its original location. There was also no need to use a spring compressor, despite what I had read elsewhere.

I just wanted to make sure I’m proceeding correctly and haven’t overlooked anything.
 
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