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B230FT My First Rebuild


New member
Feb 28, 2005
First off, i have not taken Rearly as many pictures as i planned. and i have No idea what i'm doing, so thanks to all of you that have kicked me in the right direction

Now, this is a 95 940T engine. (so i have been told)
I found it online and had it shipped in,
Well the delivery company was suppose to call me prior to dropping it off at the local loading dock. Lucky i had talked to the loading dock folks because i got a call while i was at work saying you have 5 min to get here or your engine is going back on the truck. i call them back 10 min later... the owners son, was kind enough to sign for it.

they Say the engine iad 166K miles on it....

It arived with the intake the injectors turbo ect. but when i was cranking it over by hand it was not easy, so i pulled the plugs. it was still tough... and when i did it make a nasty little Tap like the sound of sheet metal.

curious, i pulled the valve cover off, and then the intake and exause manifolds (Lucky nothing broke)

manifold intake gasket was nasty

After a bit of Dremmel time. it's a Little better.

I made the intakes a wee bit bigger.

then i used some finer pollish crap to kinda clean the heads up a bit.

now looking into the cylinders the two end cylinders had a little rust in them. so they will be going into the machine shop shortly to get bored out the the slightest little bit. not you can still see the original machine marks in the cylinder walls.

< Photos soon >

So. it Should run nice when it's all done, i gotta look cool to right?
Well it wont. but i did pull the down pipe and cat off and polished and paint stripped the THICK road drime off.

I Talked my Wife into helping a little.

we took turns...
This lasted for a couple hours...

...she's so creative...

so... next is the tranny, new clutch all ready to go.

Getting the U Joints out is Not an Easy task,, i pulled the pins and tryed to hammer them threw... i tryed an Air Chizle, hardly a scratch. although cement in the driveway says it's working...
so, after i finaly managed to get the bolts out of the part that plugs into the rear end

then i painfully lowered the tranny down, onto my face.

to get the U joint free i used one of my impact sockets so the sledge would not hit any thing but the u joint caps place every thing on the cement floor and spent about 10 min pretending i was chopping wood.
on a safety note. do not do this in a room with windows, or breakable objects. that socket can realy fly!
so, now i still have the front half of the drive line connect to the tranny Via the rubber boot thing. but the rest of the drive line i wraped in a kitchen towel and put in a small bench vice and used a wire brush and alot of gas as well as a file to take off any burs.


then out with the paint, i painted the cat and the down pipe with high temp paint, although i think the down pipe will burn the paint because the highest temp blue paint i could find was 500F

while all this was going on, my boxes of parts were rolling in, the very last box a "head set" head gasket exaust and valve stem gaskets ECT was the last box to arrive.. and it arrived totaly crushed.
i dident bother to open it, i took it back to UPS and opened it infront of them.
Head gasket any one?



Okay well thats all for todays installment of WTF will happen next!
please tune in later for the latest news

I have been told i will be getting a refund in ~8 days.
Although i did have a misunderstanding with UPS and the same local office fixed it and i'm Very pleased with one of the people that work there.
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yeah 13mm Rods, and oil squirters. I was thinking of useing the Garret that's currently in the car, i can eather go with a garrett or a mitsu it came with the mitsu.

I Called and the head work is not done.
the head is getting checked out. new seals new gaskets ECT. and a 3 angle valve job. that should be finished wednesday... but it's okay....
Last night i pulled the rest of the crap off the block, and pulled the oil Pump


the tapping i heard and thought it was coming from the heads (but it also sounded like it could be from the bottom)
was the oil pump i found this out when i took the pump out and heard it.
Ok now there is the plastic hose that from from the crank case vent box (where the flame trap would be)
what's that hose called and where do i get a new one?

and the psudo flame trap vent box

Now for the Ugly!!!

this is the #1 Cylinder? closest to the firewall is #1 right?

as you see, it's not in as great of shape as the #4? (close to the timeing belt)
it's in better shape, but it rained one night and the tarp blew off and it rusted.


and now for the ever famous and saught after OIL SQUIRTERS! Arn't they a beautiful cruddy brown!


Stay tuned to this thread for more exciteing updates!
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That's the drain tube for the oil separator box. It leads down into the oil pan. I believe you can order a new one from www.fcpgroton.com. Whenever you change your oil trap, be sure NOT TO DISTURB THIS HOSE!!!! YOU NEED TO PULL THE OIL PAN TO GET THE HOSE BACK IN!!!! Because you're doing a rebuild, it doesn't really matter, but just for future reference.
The tube just ends up getting hard and brittle. I ordered a replacement tube and trimmed it down. I could have also just used a o-ring. The tube is pointless in my opinion so I only used enough of it to have it make the seal to the block.
you can also get a tube from the volvo stealership, shouldnt be too much, you could clean up those bores with a light hone with a hand drill honer, (take the squirters out first)

Ps, the engine is non interferance, IE even if the cam belt broke at 5000 rpm the engine would be fine.
how do i tell what the stock piston size is? i have another set that Think are just a Little bigger.
and they have #'s on them, but any body know the stock size, that way i can figure out what i need if i can use the new ones?

im shot sure if i should have the michene shop tell me if i need no bearings? but i have no idea how to tell shoot i'm not shure what to look for.
and thanks for the advice on the drain hose. I'll be ordering one ASAP.

here are a couple of Pic's of the car, she has some battle scars, but no body work has been done.


so far, it's been backed over by an 05 Neon, the Neon was Parked on the hood, and the back bumper was ~12 inches from the windshiled (i was stopped and she was flyin in reverse)

the damage to the front spoiler was from a VW Bug. my car was parked in a yard and the bug backed into me. it pushed his engine into the back seat and totaled the bug.
it broke my fog lite bracket and cracked my spoiler. no other scratches.


the dent in the door was from a snowmobile with pipe bumpers and a throttle was was frozen wide open (yes, i was driveing) Drivers Door


The Wheels, are Solaris 16's. they are from an S40 I belive.

the Spacers are Anodized 25 mm front and 32mm rears I bought then from Dale (245gti)


The Rotors are Zimmermin X-Drilled the Pads are Ceramic, I Dont Rember the brand, i want to say thay are Green Some thing.... BAD Brake dust!! No Squeeks and agresive in a good way!

My Baby!
see the letters stammped on you pistons, C and D, those correspond to the stock sizing of the cyl bores to match them

C 96.00-96.01mm
D 96.01-96.02mm
E 96.02-96.03mm
G 96.04-96.05mm
1st OS 96.30mm
2nd OS 96.60mm
Great Thank you.
Currently mine are; Starting with #1 C/D/C/D
are they surposed to be Diff sizes?
or, is that just to alow for inprefections in the casting/manucatoring of the block?
thats exactly why they have them. when the bore and hone the block they measure the bores and choose the correct piston for the the clearance needed, usually you'll see mostly C's and D's as there closest to what it should be, and volvo were pretty good at doing there job
My Current new pistons are 96.61's so i'm thinking, the cylinders should be fine...
Is Mahle a good brand?
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Blueprint and balance

do you think it would be worth having the engine blueprinted and balanced? honistly, i'm not Real clear on the details of this. so if some one wants to fill me in, also, how much dose that normaly cost?
do you think it would be worth having the engine blueprinted and balanced?

For performance & a smoother revving engine- I'd say its worth it, if you can find a competent machine shop that won't charge an arm & a leg. You can balance the pistons & rods yourself if you have a small scale- you weigh all 4 pistons seperately, set aside the lightest one & remove material from inside the other 3 untill they all weigh the same- repeat the process for the rods.The crankshaft has to be balanced by machine, you can also get your flywheel & pressure plate balanced together- the sky's the limit on engine builds