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B230FT My First Rebuild

if you can afford it, take along all the bottom parts, rods, crank, pplate and flywheel. while they have it in the shop ask them to check the wear on the crank bearings, its a good idea to have them grind it down to the first undersize so when you fit new (undersize) bearings it be like a new fit.

I hear that the pistons are normally ok for balance, but you can check them too.
Help!!! i need the engine specs

The Shop Called today because there book dosent go up to a 95 940T engine
any body know where i can find the green books for this particular engine i thought all the b230FT's were the same but he wants piston clearances and valve clearances, and Every thing! can any one hook me up FAST?

Another thing, they said i'll need new "aux" shaft bearings
aswell as main and rod bearings, WTF is the "aux shaft"

Thanks, Gary
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Go to a volvo dealership and ask real nice and they may hook you up... I know I had one hook me up. BTW, how much has the rebuild cost you so far... I'm thinking of doing something similar, but want to know how much to set aside first!... thanks
my "local" dealer is some thing like 100+ miles each way

I'd be More than happy to give you an itemised cost, as soon as i get all the recipts togather :)

No luck so far Bunch of jerks Except one!
and they are going to get back to me...

Any Body know if the Green book specs for a 7XX b230ft are the same for a 9XX both are b230ft
But the 95 has squirters and 13 MM rods ECT
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Hi Wolfie

That looks like a complete engine rebuilt job --. done One myself only lately.
I hope someone will copy out or tape out all the specs from the green book.
consider getting one of these engine overhaul kits --
I found KG trimning in Sweden spot on, -- they may not be the cheapest, but fast and A1 material.
If you'r really stuck send me a PM and I will type out the specs --
The auxiliary shaft is to drive the oil pump and in the case of a block mounted dizzy, that too. It's the pully on the right hand side and up from the crank, if you look from the front.

Heres the haynes manual specs for Volvo 940 1990-1996.

Need The Green Book if Any body can hook me up Please

Need The Green Book if Any body can hook me up Please
i just Read the loast Post, Thanks!
Just typed it out -- makes for better readability:

Engine Specifications B 230 Ft

Cylinder head
Warp-limit acceptable for use:
Lengthwise: 0.50 mm
Across: 0.25 mm
Warp limit acceptable for refinishing;
Lengthwise: 1,00 mm
Across ; 0.50 mm
New: 146,1 mm
Minimum after refinishing: 145.6 mm

Inlet Valves
Head diameter: 44mm
Stem diameter:
New: 7,955 to 7,970 mm
Wear limit: 7,935 mm
Valve head angle: 44deg 30?

Exhaust valves
Head diameter: 35 mm
Stem diameter
New: 7,945 ? 7,965 mm
Wear limit: 7,925 mm

Valve seats inserts:
Diameter (standard)
Inlet: 46 mm
Exhaust: 38 mm
Oversizes available: +0,25 and +0,50 mm
Valve seat angle: 45 deg

Valve guides
Length: 52 mm
Internal diameter: 8,000 ? 8, 022 mm
Height above cylinder head:
Inlet: 15,4 to 15,6 mm
Exhaust: 17,9 - 18,1 mm
Stem to guide clearance
New: ( inlet) 0,030 ? 0,060 mm
New ( exhaust ): 0,060 ? 0,090 mm
Wear limit (inlet and exhaust) 0,15 mm
Fit in head: interference
External oversizes available 3

Valve springs
Diameter: 25.9 mm
Free length: 45,5 mm
Length under load:
280 to 320 N 38,00mm
702 ? 782 N 27,5 mm

Cylinder bores
Standard size:
C: 96,00 ? 96,01 mm
D: 96,01 ? 96,02 mm
E: 96,02 ? 96,03 mm
G: 96,04 ? 96,05 mm
First oversize: 96,30 mm
Second oversize: 96,60 mm
Wear limit: 0,1 mm

Height: 64,7 mm
Weight variation in same engine: 16 gram max.
Running clearance in bore 0,01 ? 0,03 mm

Piston rings
Clearance in groove
Top compression: 0,060 ? 0,092 mm
Second compression: 0,040 ? 0,072 mm
Oil control: 0,030 ? 0,065 mm
End gap:
Compression rings: 0,30 ? 0,55 mm
Oil ring: 0,30 ? 0,60 mm

Gudgeons pins
Diameter standard: 23,00 mm
Oversize available: + 0,05 mm
Fit in rod: light thumb pressure
Fit in piston: firm thumb pressure

Auxiliary shaft
Bearing journal diameter
Front: 46,975 ? 47,000 mm
Centre: 43,025 ? 43,050 mm
Rear: 42,925 ? 42,950 mm
Bearing running clearance: 0,020 ? 0,075 mm
End float: 0,20 mm ? 0,46 mm

Run out: max. 0,04 mm
End float: 0,080 ? 0,270 mm
Main bearing journal diameter:
Standard: 63,00 mm
First undersize: 62,75 mm
Second undersize: 62,50 mm
Main bearing running clearance: 0,024 ? 0,072 mm
Main bearing out of round: 0,006 mm max.
Main bearing taper: 0,006 mm max.
Connecting rod bearing journal diameter:
Standard: 49,00 mm
First undersize: 48,75 mm
Second undersize: 48,50 mm
Connecting rod bearing running clearance: 0,023 ? 0,067 mm
Connecting rod bearing out of round: 0,1mm max.
Connecting rod taper: 0,01 mm max.

Connecting rods
Length between centres: 152 mm
Endfloat in crankshaft: 0,25 ? 0,45 mm
Weight variation in same engine: 20 gram max.
Shoot, you dident need to do that! thank you :)
So, it's been a while sence i'v updated this... well to be fair, i had the shop boreing out the cylinders for the biggest oversize pistons. if i recall correctly they were .60's Well... i get a call from the shop... they are asking me if the pistons are returnable... i responded with "not so much...Why..." well what happened is on the No1 Cylinder (by the waterpump)
they had went a bit to far, and hit the oil squirter... and this had cause there stuff to go off, and kinda made the cylinder wall... oval down there... so they were going to bore it out a bit more. and wanted to know if i wanted to get Biger oversize pistons, or if they should sleave it... well more pistons ... not an option.. and i wasent keen on sleaveing it. but i decided to go with that option. what do you guys thing?? any stories/facts/data to back it up.. because at this point i have half a mind to go back and pay them for the great work on the head, but get some money back for the job on the block. i probably overpayed, but i payed $600 for that engine + shipping it had low miles. but i was just trying to be cautious by rebuilding it. so, now i'm kinda ticked off. I Will have pictors here shortly. so last night i have things home and i'm trying to slip the pistion in the cylinder and i have no idea how, but i seem to have broken one of the rings. $h!t... the rings on the rest of the cylinders are Mahle. so where can i get rings for just 1 piston that's a .60 same brand? if that's not an option.. well i realy dont want to spend another $100 on a new set.
No, i wasent, that was my bad for being a Putz! i understand that, i just dont like it, it was late, and i was just goofin around... i learned not to do that any more...

QUESTION, has any one got an extra Oil squirter layin around? one of mine is bent up and all sorts of retarted looking.

Please stay tuned for more exciteing action! ;)
Hi Wolfie

If they messed up the bore, you can realistically forget the block. Sleeving it is not a real option -- there is not much space.

Who ever did the bore did two things wrong (IMO): they did not remove the squirters before starting, and they did not bore and hone to the actual piston. (which in the case of Mahle is exactly 96.600 mm measured in the middle).
We centered my block via the crank bearing journals, just to make sure, that the machine sits exactly flush 90 deg. to the crank when boring, and cannot move anyway sidewise We honed the same way.
the whole operation took about 8 hours, my machine man being an enthusiast.
A set of second size piston rings is cheap in FCP - Groton.

Best, Hans
I'm Verry not happy with what happened. but i may end up useing it any way, just because i'm moveing in a few months, and if my car isent running, there's no way to move, and no way to move it.. i have half a mind to go get my money back, still the block dident come cheap. or easy... so yeah, i think i will be getting my money back. any body have a rebuild manual... or some thing that shows all the specs?
Just typed it out -- makes for better readability:

Or, you know, a decent scan :-P

<img height="1610px" src="http://gaz.inferiorhumanorgans.com/greenbook/album/TP30871_1/p004/full.png" />

<img height="1626px" src="http://gaz.inferiorhumanorgans.com/greenbook/album/TP30871_1/p005/full.png" />

<img height="1604px" src="http://gaz.inferiorhumanorgans.com/greenbook/album/TP30871_1/p006/full.png" />

<img height="1616px" src="http://gaz.inferiorhumanorgans.com/greenbook/album/TP30871_1/p007/full.png" />

<img height="1614px" src="http://gaz.inferiorhumanorgans.com/greenbook/album/TP30871_1/p008/full.png" />

<img height="1614px" src="http://gaz.inferiorhumanorgans.com/greenbook/album/TP30871_1/p009/full.png" />

<img height="1595px" src="http://gaz.inferiorhumanorgans.com/greenbook/album/TP30871_1/p040/full.png" />
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Holy Cr@p Batman! now i'm feeling a bit like i got in over my head! Well, i'm goin, so um any body want to hold my hand threw this??

Hans, Where's a good place to pick up thoes rings? if you could give me a website, that would be Great!

As for every one else watching... any of you have an extra squirter you could donate? there's No way i'm putting this one back in... thow they were kind enough to file the end off so oil can flow threw it. it's aimed in the Wrong direction, and it's all goofy, i'll post pic's of it here soon.

I'm Still not shure if i'm going to keep this block or not, what's the concensus?
now for the fun stuff... while i was at the shop talking about the sleeve, he was like. that sleave has more knickle in it than the block.. so it's stronger... i dont know why i thought it was funny...

Okay, here are the bearings i'm looking at getting. http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/...egory=main_bearing&part_name=main_bearing_set

Are there Any other bearings i will need???
Any thing for the bar that has the gear on it? told you i'm new...
any body have experance with the brands? i personaly have got some scantech stuff (plastic) and i was NOT impressed...

******************On the image above it says Do NOT grind the valves*************
Why? Because i had a 3 angle cut on them.... am i Screwed???

Oh Fair warning. When i'm done, Shortly after, i will be hauling a trailer, and ALL my Stuff ~ 4,000 miles From Oklahoma to Alaska... it's gonna be done rite the first time. if not well then i'm gonna get killed because were selling my wife's 07 cobalt as soon as mine is finished... and it wont pull any thing bigger than a skate board with a fat kid on it...
Coating o the valves is only so deep, they don't want it machined away. The three angle valve job is, in theory, just the valve seat, the round portion of the head where the valve face seals to the head.
It's OK to have them done, but I don't know that I'd have gone 3 angle on a turbo motor due to reduced heat transfer from valve to head, but it's not critical. Hopefully the valves were just lapped in the fresh seats by hand.

See if http://www.fcpgroton.com/ has the rings. Might call em if not listed.

On the block, personally, I wouldn't use it. I'd buy one cheap as you can and tell the machine shop look, do it again, do it right, and I'm not paying twice. Don't be a dick but explain you bought a low mile motor and paid a premium, and now you don't know what you have, as they very obviously didn't know what the hell they were doing. The alternative, and what I favor, is pony up and buy a verifiable low mile motor, and just replace rings and bearings, maybe pistons if they are worn, but the whole idea of a low mile motor is not to have to get machine work done, to prevent monkeys screwing something up like this. You can still find redblocks with under 100K if you hunt.
Re: sleeving: I don't know one way or another of any specific issues with redblocks and sleeves, but they have been considered at least as good as the stock bore for a long time. Hell many motors are sleeved from the start. But there again, it comes to installer competence.