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B230FT on a Haltech Elite 550

R

restomog

New member
Joined
Jan 3, 2026
Hello all and thank you for all the resources. I've searched and I can see that people are running Haltechs but havent seen a whole lot of configuration info. We are running a B230FT in an 88 245 that was LH2.2. Right now we have the LH2.2 block mounted distributor, LH2.4 crank position sensor with 60-2 flexplate, GM IAT and coolant temp sensors, Haltech built in MAP, Haltech wideband, and Volvo 850 blue injectors. For the ignition we are using the factory coil with a GM 4 pin ignition module. I've verified spark and injector pulse just on cylinder 1.

I've used the trigger system for the Audi 1.8t as a base because it uses a 60-2 and 4 tooth home similar to what we have but something still seems off. The car will cough and sputter but wont stay running. I saw in one of the few other Haltech threads to run TDC angle at 87° but this doesnt seem to have a meaningful difference.
 
Are you planning on going to any kind of sequential anything? Spark or fuel?

If the trigger wheel inside the distributor still has four teeth then the ecu has no way of knowing what cylinder its on. If you are going to use batch fire (what you're doing now) you don't really need the sensor in the distributor. I would disable ot as an input for the time deing and just use the crank trigger to run the car.

I feel like you just need to get TDC lined up between the #1 piston, the crank trigger, and the ECU. Don't trust the timing marks on the crank pulley. They can be off sometimes. Find TDC of the compression stroke, then run a tooth logger on the ecu while you turn it over.
 
We'd like to run sequential fueling ideally but its not a deal breaker to batch fire the injectors again. We are still using the distributor for ignition so I dont think there is any changing sequential or batch there lol. The wheel in the distributor is still the same, I was trying to understand how to modify it if needed but cant seem to find a guide that I understand. When I set the engine and distributor up I started with it at TDC on cylinder 1 specifically.
 
Currently have Trigger set to Reluctor, falling edge, no filter no ground reference.
Home set to Hall Effect, rising edge, no filter, pull up enable, minimum rpm 600, synchronization mode Always.
Ignition set to Distributor, falling edge, dwell mode Constant Charge.
Injectors set to Bosch 0280155868 382cc/m, sequential, per cylinder, timed on start of injection, single stage.
 
I put a noid light on each injector pigtail, getting a single pulse on crank then nothing. From what I can find this is a trigger issue, in oscilloscope I can see the trigger (crank) fine but don't see anything from home (cam).
 
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Playing with rising or falling edge has gotten me a clear working home signal, the engine will run for a second but still stalls pretty quick even with some throttle.
 
If I understand correctly, you're setup for a 60-2 crank wheel with a VR (Reluctor) sensor and have an UNMODIFIED LH2.2 distributor for the cam/home sensor, setup as a Hall sensor with a pull up enabled within the ECU. The 4 teeth on the LH2.2 distributor are all identical. To use it for a home sensor, you'll need to cut off 3 of the 4 teeth. There may be a preferred remaining tooth for Haltech, IDK.

To start with, can you setup the Haltech for crank sensor only and distributor ignition? This implies that it will be using batch fire injection. Once you get this running, you can go modify the distributor and change to full sequential.
 
Switched to Generic - Missing tooth - No home, 60-2, 87° tdc angle. Injectors set to batch fire with 2 pulses per cycle. It now fires strong and will run for longer with some throttle but won't stay idling.
 
If you're using the factory LH2.4 2-wire idle air valve, they're a little weird. There's a spring-loaded shutter that rotates within the valve. When un-powered, it's slightly opened. This is a limp-home position. As it's energized more and more, i.e. as the PWM duty cycle is increased from 0% to 100%, the valve first closes, then starts to open again, then goes through the normal range to fully open. For aftermarket ECUs, this means that you need to set the minimum IAC duty cycle to something like 20% or 30% (@HiSPL may know exactly for microsquirt) so that the valve stays within the normal, non-limp, range.
 
We are using the factory bosch 2 wire iac, set to 100hz. I dont actually see a place to set minimum in the haltech yet, but even holding the throttle open it doesnt want to stay running. I'm going to look over the fuel tables now and see if its enriching a bunch on start and then pulling it out, probably wouldnt hurt to get the exhaust made and wideband actually installed at this point lol.
 
So there's still some stuff to play with but last night it started running on throttle which was great but it was long enough to see it had stopped building oil pressure so now Im going to pull the pan and re-replace the o rings for the tube. Talking to someone else with a similar setup they cut three of the tabs off the wheel in their distributor to get everything running sequential.
 
Sounds like you're making good progress. :)

Before pulling the engine to get to the oil pump, I'd try a manual oil pressure gauge to confirm the actual pressure. The original pressure sensors tend to stick, and eventually fail, after 25+ years. If you replace the tube gaskets, do a trial fitting without the gaskets first, and mark the tube insertion depths with a sharpie to help ensure it's correct when the gaskets are included.
 
bobxyz said:
Sounds like you're making good progress. :)

Before pulling the engine to get to the oil pump, I'd try a manual oil pressure gauge to confirm the actual pressure. The original pressure sensors tend to stick, and eventually fail, after 25+ years. If you replace the tube gaskets, do a trial fitting without the gaskets first, and mark the tube insertion depths with a sharpie to help ensure it's correct when the gaskets are included.
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I really wish that was all it was, we pulled the sender and just jumped the starter last night and didnt get any oil out. The car is currently on a two post lift so hopefully I can just use a stand to hold the engine up high enough after undoing the mounts to be able to roll the pan out.
 
Oil pump fixed, of course now that we have oil pressure the leaks have started and wont stop.
 
I supported the engine from the top, put the car up on a 2 post lift, and unbolted the subframe and pulled it down far enough to give the clearance to roll the pan out.
 
If you lift the engine 2-3 inches from above it gives you enough room to sneak the oil pan out.

You’ve got to turn the pan 90 degrees to get it out, but it works.

Use a top-beam type engine support or you can diy it with some 4x4 lumber
 
Engine fired up and running pretty good, ran into an issue with our used aw71 binding up due to seized clutches so we have another one ready to go in now.

For anyone looking at doing the 2.2 distributor/2.4 crank position sensor; cut three of the tabs off the trigger wheel in the distributor, we left the tab under the rotor trailing it, and set the home(cam) trigger in the ecu to hall effect rising edge. The crank sensor is set to reluctor and rising edge also. 86-87 degrees tdc offset.
 
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