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b23f+t 350 whp build

10k+ isn't so bad, i thought i would get like 25k answer haha although at the time that is out of my means. At this point with all the feedback i've been given and the overwhelming majority advising me against it i'm just going to go the normal tb way. Think ill suck up the whole interference thing and go 16v and do the stroker thing cosby posted with a turbo and shoot for 300-350 whp. Seem like that should keep me within my range and give me something fun while i learn more on what i really want to do. Hell for that case i can just rebuild the stock b230 when i pull it and years down the road toss it back in when its done so i'll still have stock motor just heavily modded (was gonna use it for a stupid ridiculous sandrail :lol:).

What are hbeams? a quick google returns high beams and im pretty sure your not referring to those... I forget what decking is but i believe that was on my original list from 3 years ago o_O Has anyone tried sleeving these with good results so i can chuck more boost at it since i'm going this route now??

So where to go from here? at the very least i want my mods attuned to each other not just frankensteined together. What options do i have to reach my goal and more specifically which ones work excellent together? I should probably add i'm not looking to R&D since im going this route, i want tried and proven methods so im not mucking about underwater so to speak as i learn wth im doing
 
wow stig! i get a machine shop hookup so i dont think mine would still be high but still dang that alone will break my 1 year budget and i still got the rest of the car resto to do!


Let me mull it over travis, i still gotta return the knockoffs to get my 100$ back and then figure out what size i'll actually need. if they'll cut it and are in good shape/clean i'll probably do that when i get the refund
 
What's with this n/a foolishness? There is no potential/point in 8v n/a. Begin with the END in mind and don't waste your time with stop gap solutions.

Edit: wow, there were like 5 responses between then I started typing and when this showed up.
 
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Sharingan 19 said:
What's with this n/a foolishness? There is no potential/point in 8v n/a. Begin with the END in mind and don't waste your time with stop gap solutions.

Edit: wow, there were like 5 responses between then I started typing and when this showed up.
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Foolishness? I'm talking turbo stroker now haha not n/a, just using n/a as reference for base hp b4 turbo

Yeah same thing happened to me :lol: got drug into a meeting while typing up my post
 
SO... now that i think i seem to have hashed out what i need for my goals, what do people think about a 8v squirter with stock high comp rods/pistons, whatever that brand new turbo is i got @ 1 bar (will post better pics tonight), 63lb injectors, tlao 3" header and DP, tlao manifold, 3" tb, ms ems with coilover pack, better knock sensor, E-fan, rsi stage 2 cam, deck the block, rework the head?
 
You need to figure out how big your turbo is first. Also, going high compression you'll probably want to use e85, and real injectors.
 
Yeah am posting pics shortly when I'm home, hopefully someone can identify it.

My restore includes 2 gas tanks, 1 for premium for dd with boost lowered, 1 with e85 for everything else

Real injectors? I'm assuming u mean NOT Chinese knockoffs like the mistake I already made? Not gonna do that again lol
 
940wagon said:
You want a reliable daily driver that makes 350whp, via a 30 year old volvo motor that you won't have to worry about for ten years?
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I have been @ 301whp+ since 2009, since maybe 2011 I have been @ 350whp+. Sure for a year it sat down waiting for the 200r4 swap but since then it has been always rock solid until I do something stupid.

Figes car has been fairly reliable as long as he doesn't cause his own issues and his is 350whp.

350whp and reliable on these stock redblocks is really not nearly as hard as most people make it out to be. Fige did it on MS with a smaller turbo with a manual, myself I have done it with LH and a large turbo and auto.

Sure my motor burns 1+qrt in 5000 miles and makes all kinds of weird fluids come out of the catch can, but otherwise it starts every day and makes it to work and back and let me beat on it once a month @ the 1/4 mile track along with tons of 25psi runs down the highway in 100+deg weather.

Sure right now it doesn't run because of a cracked header but that is 100% my fault for not bracing the external, either way I have done well over 20k miles on that header until that part failed, otherwise stock short block has easy 100k+ miles over 300whp.
 
What kinda turbo is fige running? And what kinda turbo are you running? I was thinking small for faster boost, not sure i understand that all still tho. BTW What would u charge for a good set of headers for a <del>mitsu</del> undecided turbo, a 3" down pipe and a nice intake manifold for a 3" throttle body?
EDIT: that is if you wouldn't mind xD i'd pitch in too if i learn TIG welding this sunday and im any good! (apparently pretty damn good at MIG so far)

Can someone tell me if there is any way to adjust compression with my high comp pistons or if should just look at going low comp pistons instead? Also why it is advantageous to go lower compression when chucking boost at it?

@onetrillionrpm my turbo is a ebay t3/t4 gonna sell it with my 90+ manifold for what i bought it for to a buddy

Edit: also any feedback on injectors? wil 63lbs suffice or should i look at 75+ lbs? TEACH ME MOAR NOM NOM NOM :lol:
 
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hdBattousai said:
Can someone tell me if there is any way to adjust compression with my high comp pistons or if should just look at going low comp pistons instead? Also why it is advantageous to go lower compression when chucking boost at it?
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There are two ways to adjust the static compression ratio. You can adjust the head combustion chamber volume, or the piston (or both of course). CR can also be minorly adjusted by going to a thicker head gasket.

Volvo chose to largely have the combustion chamber volume the same and change CR by adjusting piston design. Turbo motors got dishes. The (relatively these days) rare flat top pistons in the hi comp B23 motors are flat tops.

B23 and B230 pistons are different and do not interchange. If you want to lower the CR for the B23, you are pushed into a thicker HG for a minor adjustment, milling the pistons or custom units for a major adjustment.

When supercharging a motor, it is common to run a lower CR in order to allow use of lower octane. If you have high CR with a supercharger (a turbo is an exhaust driven supercharger) the motor becomes very sensitive to octane. If you run low octane and too much boost, you will have pre-ignition. Essentially the diesel effect whereby the fuel air mixture auto ignites due to the heat of compression. It usually does that somewhere on the compression stroke. This is extremely bad for the motor.

You CAN run high compression with a turbo, you just have to run premium and if you go over a few lbs boost, you will have to run race gas. The combination of high compression and a low pressure turbo would be a blast to drive.
 
Awesome quillc! Thank you very much for that good piece of info!

So if i understand correctly increasing the combustion chamber volume will decrease cr? Increasing headgasket size will increase combustion chamber volume right?

b23 and b230 pistons dont interchange because of different bore size right?

VERY good to know! don't wanna go boom haha, that would also be considered a detonation right? or is that only when the gas doesn't ignite evenly and ignites a second time?

Also i only do roughly 10k miles a year and meticulous standard maintenance, I try to stay off the roads cuz ppl dont know how to drive so ontop of thelos statement i don't think that is crazy to expect 10+ years outta it
 
If it were my car, and what I plan to do for my car, is work the head to lower static CR a bit and bump up the flow a bit; two birds with one stone. Gets you a step closer to your power goals and helps you out with detonation at the power levels you're after.
 
Yes but i'm not sure i understand how to do that. IF i understood quillc correctly the headwork involved would be to remove material and increase the combustion chamber volume in order to lower the cr?

That would also inturn mean decking the block so the pistons protrude a lil would be increasing cr correct?
 
hdBattousai said:
So if i understand correctly increasing the combustion chamber volume will decrease cr?
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yes.
hdBattousai said:
Increasing headgasket size will increase combustion chamber volume right?
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HG thickness, yes. Cometic HGs are nice and come in multiple thicknesses
hdBattousai said:
b23 and b230 pistons dont interchange because of different bore size right?
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Nope, they are both 96MM. Just totally different engines. Some peripherals interchange, but really nothing else.
hdBattousai said:
VERY good to know! don't wanna go boom haha, that would also be considered a detonation right? or is that only when the gas doesn't ignite evenly and ignites a second time?
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Anytime it goes boom is bad (maybe other than a loud stereo).
hdBattousai said:
Also i only do roughly 10k miles a year and meticulous standard maintenance, I try to stay off the roads cuz ppl dont know how to drive so ontop of thelos statement i don't think that is crazy to expect 10+ years outta it
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If you spend the money for a top quality rebuild, 10+ years is reasonable. Depends upon your useage and expectations as always.
 
Onetrillionrpm said:
How do you know your 63# injectors will be big enough for x turbo at 1bar?
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My Siemens deka 63lbs injectors are running about 86% dutycycle on my b21 at 2bar (don't remember how many psi that translates to). Holset hy35 turbo. For 350whp I'd get something bigger. 63's are good for about 400 at the crank, if I remember correctly
 
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