B6284T into a 240. Looking for information pls :)

[SlowBrick]

For the longest time since buying the motor in 2015 Ive wanted to build a T6 240. I have the 240, I have the T6 and now I finally have the time and motivation.

Over the past 5 years I have been collecting random parts and think I have enough now to actually start the build. Im embarrassed to admit this has taken 5 years

My goals for the car is a reliable 300whp with room to grow in the future should I get better at handling the power. From my reading I shouldnt be expecting reliability out of a T6 past 350 on stock rods?

The motor I have was pulled from a 2001 S80 that had 100000 kms on the clock and was involved in a wreck and totaled. The motor ran nice in the car before it was wrecked and the service history was completely up to date. I have a T5 transmission of unknown origin from a GM car here called the Commodore. I havent checked yet to see if its a WC so thats still a question mark. I have an early revision of the Deeworks whiteblock to T5 trans adapter and had planned on using the T5 trans in the first iteration of the swap with a plan to maybe move to a CD009 in the event I break the T5 or decide to turn the wick up in the future.

I have a set of I think Homer mounts that I was kindly gifted by Lord Tentacle.

My main question that I have with the engine is given the modest goals of 300 - 350 whp should I worry about the rods? Part of me wants to just install it and get it running and deal with them later if I need to and another part of me wants to just open it and get them done. Another factor is that I dont think I could keep a T5 trans reliable at much above 350whp anyway.

This will be a street car that might see the track for club days but wont be a racecar. I am pretty much set on the T6 and really just want a nice reliable 300 - 350whp.

Whiteblock swap people what do you think?

 

[fatcatbestcat]

A stock T-5 will probably hold that much power for a given time, but they're a bit unpredictable. I blew mine up in a 305 Monza around the 300 hp mark, but I've seen people with turbo 5.0L mustangs make 500+ and not blow it up. Worst-case, if you blow up your T5, you could just pony up for a T56 or something like that.

Someone else has done this on these forums, I'd ask him for advice as far as the swap is concerned. Here's the build thread.
(http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=310055)

 

[SlowBrick]

Thanks for that link. I knew of the Bondo wagon and the Lankuu builds but didnt know of that one you linked. I have WC T5 behind a B23ET and quite like the way it shifts with the MGW shifter so apart from the power limits of the box have no real reason to not use it.

I figured that with 205 wide tyres on 16 wheels that it shouldnt hook up hard enough to break the trans and should break loose instead.

 

[TurboDutch]

T6 originally from factory puts out some 275 hp right?
So 300 should be easy does it.

Rods are indeed made of french bread, same as T5 rods.
But a T5 also holds quite oke as long as you build boost a bit gentle. Not all torque from nothing and most power over 3600 rpm something they hold quite good.

Only yeah... If you have a good pre-ignition once you will send a rod.

 

[DET17]

Have you communicated directly with Lankku? He is currently the MAN with respect to the in-line whiteblock.

 

[SlowBrick]

T6 originally from factory puts out some 275 hp right?
So 300 should be easy does it.

Rods are indeed made of french bread, same as T5 rods.
But a T5 also holds quite oke as long as you build boost a bit gentle. Not all torque from nothing and most power over 3600 rpm something they hold quite good.

Only yeah... If you have a good pre-ignition once you will send a rod.

I have heard about low RPM high boost failures in Whiteblocks. I imagine alot of this can be solved by ensuring to have sufficient RPM before pressing the pedal all the way to build full boost. I am planning on using an aftermarket ems so I imagine i could control the boost curve to hopefully prevent low rpm boosting.

Would you say its still worthwhile replacing the rods just to be sure? I could even eat the old ones with butter and a coffee

 

[SlowBrick]

Have you communicated directly with Lankku? He is currently the MAN with respect to the in-line whiteblock.

No I haven't communicated with him yet as I'm still in the brainstorming stage and dont have any real progress to discuss yet. The car still needs alot of other work but I wanted to start collecting information so that when I start I have some sort of idea of what I should be doing.

 

[TurboDutch]

I have heard about low RPM high boost failures in Whiteblocks. I imagine alot of this can be solved by ensuring to have sufficient RPM before pressing the pedal all the way to build full boost. I am planning on using an aftermarket ems so I imagine i could control the boost curve to hopefully prevent low rpm boosting.

Would you say its still worthwhile replacing the rods just to be sure? I could even eat the old ones with butter and a coffee

Lol!

It would make things more reliable yes if you would replace the rods.
I've put a T6 in my 164 and 262c of a friend we are both using skinny rods still...
But this is because we like to see it happen first before we are spending money on the T6.

So everyone probably has it's own idea about that.

As far as I understood the maxpeedingrods of T5 engine will work, they are rather cheapie you only need 6 pcs.
Also use proper rod bearings, better to put sputtered top and bottom instead of only on top position like originally is the case.
Or use other racing bearings ofcourse.

Also the T6es tend to have trouble with cooling the last cilinders so I would install a lower temp thermostat and adjust fan settings in ECU accordingly.
Having said that, while you have the motor open to change them rods I'd say also shim the spaces beteen liners. They do the same in T5's as well and Frod 2.5 Turbo.

If you want to go more hp you might consider have it machined to closed deck or to put them bushings in to prevent liners from cracking.

But ofcourse all above depends on budget and HP NEEEEDsssss.

I'm planning to run M4.4 of a V70's classic series modified to run T6 but no outcome till now, still working on it.

My friend with 262C will run KDFI 1.4 as engine management it's cheap and good!

Also BMW M52 cheap exh manifolds will fit the ports line up exactly only you'll need to change flange or modify because them holes don't line up.

 

[Lankku]

Too much low end torque isn't too good for stock rods. But how much is too much? I think there are 300-310hp tunes for a stock T6. That's as far as stock injectors go with gas.

Installed a ~550hp capable Schwitzer to my old 965(facelifted -93) last year. Just a stock -98 B6304 with shims between cylinders. Drove it for a while with E85 and low boost and sold it to a friend. He swapped in a MSII ecu and I think dynoed around 380hp last winter. Has driven it since with that power level and it has kept together. He did swap in a different turbo which spools ~500rpm lower but is capable much more horsepower.

Also use proper rod bearings, better to put sputtered top and bottom instead of only on top position like originally is the case.
Or use other racing bearings ofcourse.

No need for sputter bearings. And if old ones look good just throw them in. If they look worn, etc. throw them in the thrash. I've used old RWD and T6 bearings and new regular Glycos. Never an issue. As long as lubrication works the bearings look like new even with 350-400k km.

 

[TurboDutch]

Yeah I bought a single set of glycos for turbo engine so I re-used the upper shells and put them in bottom, then used the new upper shells new.
The sets you usually buy for turbo-ed engines are sputtered in top and regular bearing in bottom.

 

[TurboDutch]

Yeah I bought a single set of glycos for turbo engine so I re-used the upper shells and put them in bottom, then used the new upper shells new.
The sets you usually buy for turbo-ed engines are sputtered in top and regular bearing in bottom.