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Back with another redblock

Slowly cracking away at this car, works been kinda busy so not much...

Got the valve stem seals replaced, did a shim job on the valves, and gave it all new aftermarket hushers. No change on smoking behavior.

At this point I was leaning towards turbo. I pulled the downpipe off and saw oil glistening behind the turbine wheel. Looks like a rebuild is in the cards.

I also reached out to who I bought my custom driveshaft and crossmember from. He said he had used a V8 foxbody t5. I went ahead and ordered a fox body input shaft, so I will essentially be making mine dimensionally the same as the V8 unit. I was afraid using a different input shaft, and therefore a different adapter plate (V6 bne version vs V8 version) that the driveshaft and crossmember wouldn't all line up.

New input shaft came in, I installed the input bearing to the shaft, and it's been sitting on a shelf since lol.

I've also been experiencing a rich misfire at boost onset. Not as extreme if I slowly roll into the throttle vs stabbing it. Redblockpowered custom chips have been ordered, but sadly have to wait on a daughterboard for my EZK, so I'm unsure when that will happen
 
Still slowly getting it done. Work had me 20 minutes away from Gpop Shop, so I stopped in for a rebuild kit. Nice people for sure! We chatted cars for a bit, and they even removed that SOB snap ring that holds the chra in the compressor housing for me for free. I've got my turbo completely disassembled at this point, and will probably be buying a cheap ultrasonic cleaner to run everything thru. I also took the opportunity to measure my turbo wheels and get some more info on them.

The compressor wheel is a billet wheel, with a slightly smaller exducer than a stock 19t (56.4mm vs 58mm) the inducer is the same. Also the blades have a 6 degree cutback, a feature that was advertised to help eliminate a boost spike as the boost came on. The turbine is a 9 blade unit that I will have to measure again, but it should be a stock sized td04hl unit

I haven't been too ecstatic about my wastegate actuator either. I found one I had laying around for an hx35 holset turbo. I checked with my hand pump and it opens at 15psi. I am strongly considering using this actuator and just making up a bracket to mount it. My compressor housing has threaded holes around the inside circumference, so I'm sure I can make something work. Be interesting to try it out anyway.

I am also taking this chance to return to using the stock Volvo drain line for the oil. I've been using one that I cut and spliced in a section of rubber hose. I didn't want to bother with clocking the turbo exactly right before, but I will take the time to do just that this go around
 
https://imgur.com/a/eBs70Ni

Got the turbo rebuild done. I will be sure to prime this one before running it. Also got the CHRA clocked so I can use the stock drain line. I'm sure my was fine, but I know the stock one will be better. I had to massage the oil feed line to clear my wastegate bracket. It is big and bulky admittedly.

I've got the downpipe removed, and a hole drilled in for my wideband bung. Just have to find a coworker with a few spare minutes to weld it up for me. Once that's all done and put back together I just have to feed the wiring from inside the car to the engine bay and I'll have a wideband finally.

Redblockpowered has been swamped. I haven't received my chips yet, but am not rushing him over it either. Since I will have my wideband gauge I will probably swap the 012 and 900cc's for my 016 and 440cc's and monitor everything. As it sits right now, anything over 10psi and I was getting a rich misfire. Yes, that is an assumption, but I would bet a chunk of change that is exactly what I am experiencing
 
https://imgur.com/a/xGClySd

Cold start video just because. Sounds really good, but lh2.4 and ipd cam shouldn't look like that. Rich e85 cold start is what I blame lol. This was before tearing the turbo down. It is slightly bogging at the end when I am revving it. I didn't want to try and pass off that lovely idle as normal and wanted to show it's just needing to warm up some
 
Got my bung welded in my downpipe today and got it in place but not bolted up. Hooked up my stainless coolant lines loosely, my banjo fittings were a little crooked so I broke them free, tightened the banjo bolts, and just have to re tighten the fitting and ensure they are straight, and hook them up to the soft coolant lines. Wastegate is reattached, as is my intake and intercooler pipe. Hopefully tomorrow my brother comes thru with a hole saw bit so I can make a pass thru for my wideband wiring. Once that's done I'll bolt up the downpipe. After that it should be just priming the turbo with oil, and fire it up! This should definitely eliminate my smoking which I'm excited about. I've skipped a few cruise nights lately due to how much smoke there was. Overall I'm happy with the progress. Once this is all lined out I either am going to tackle getting my GTA wheels redrilled, or continue acquiring parts for the t5 swap. I am probably going to do 2 wheels at a time, so might due 2 now, gather t5 parts, do the 2 other wheels, and then get the remaining parts. Slowly getting this car where I want it to be lol
 
Well no more smoke screens! Got it all back together and let it idle up to temp. No leaks on my first try either!

Ignore the wideband wiring going over the fender, I've got to pull out of the garage to be able to fit in the passenger footwell lol.

Second picture shows the placement of the sensor in the downpipe. Not quite as far down as AEM recommends (36") but for ease of access, good sensor angle, and overall clearance, ill take my chances having it closer to the turbo.

I am running my afr gauge on the gasoline setting. I don't have the faceplates that came with it that has a readout for Lamda (not the digital readout, the actual gauge readout part). From my understanding, I should see a reading of 14.5-15.0 at idle, roughly 13.2 at light load, and 11.4-12 at WOT. That will just be the readout on the gauge, while E85 Lamda at those readings would be 1.00-1.05 at idle, .90 atlight load, and .78-.82 at WOT
 
Went for a test drive and my suspicions were correct. Slowly rolling into the throttle I can watch the afr slowly drop, and when just getting on it it immediately drops. The lowest my gauge will show is 10.0, and that's what I am seeing under boost, excessively rich condition. Hopefully the new chips will sort it all out,but I am still waiting a reply
 
Hopefully your chips bring you to 11~12 at WOT. Good luck, and don't be surprised if it takes several chip revisions to get things right.
 
Yeah as it is right now, I'm sure it's running richer than that even. It will start missing badly under heavy boost.

My current chips are very very early TLAO chips, and I'm not sure what they were made for originally, but I am well beyond their capabilities
 
Lookin good. The aem seems like a good choice.

Ive been running a glowshift wb for a bit and no complaints on function.
Its installed next to a glowshift boost, got them as a package deal a while back. The boost gauge's red backlight doesnt quite match the wb red, and neither has an option for a soft white light. Would love to find something thats a near match to oe, vdo cockpit style maybe. New headlights AND my aux gauges are too bright lol
/Threadjack
 
Crustacean Wagon said:
Lookin good. The aem seems like a good choice.

Ive been running a glowshift wb for a bit and no complaints on function.
Its installed next to a glowshift boost, got them as a package deal a while back. The boost gauge's red backlight doesnt quite match the wb red, and neither has an option for a soft white light. Would love to find something thats a near match to oe, vdo cockpit style maybe. New headlights AND my aux gauges are too bright lol
/Threadjack
Click to expand...
It's the only AEM product I've ever bought. I purchased it about 10 years ago and had it installed in a manual s70 t5. I've just had it rolling around, not protected or installed at all for majority of those 10 years. No issues out of it at this point, so next time I'm needing something that they offer, I will consider going AEM. Though admittedly after COVID, there quality probably has gone done, such as everything else in the world has.

Personally, I don't have that much of an eye for detail lol. Im unsure on how well my wideband and boost gauge match color wise. I'd love to see your setup though, post up some pics!
 
I like the placement, so easy to see. I've got my boost controller/gauge right on top of the steering column, and my wideband in the left air vent. I've already noticed my eyes all over the damn place while driving lol.

Im no electrician,but I wonder if you could wire some sort of adjustable dimmer into the bottom gauge to bring it down to match the other one?
 
Steering wheel minorly blocks the wb but not too bad, and even better since i swapped the stock couch for a seat from a 95ish celica. Its been time to make a project thread

I attempted a disassembly on the wb the other day to see about swapping the lighting but didnt end up getting too far after peeling it apart.
 
Well since it was running super rich, I decided to do some parts swapping. The 016 AMM and green injectors (s60r injectors, not green tops) got swapped back in. I unhooked the battery while I did this. Upon first startup it was really rich. Within 5 minutes of idling it had lined itself out and I was seeing good AFR.

Took it for a drive and realized I need to play with my wastegate bracket. Id adjusted the turbo on reassembly, so my wastegate adjustment was consequently changed. I will try playing with it some once the car cools off. The wastegate misalignment caused my turbo to lag much worse, as well as my boost was slower to build and softer feeling. However, it did eventually reach 14psi, and I did not notice any lean conditions. It was actually in the mid 10s afr, and each time I did a pull it would get slightly leaner (closer to where it should be, not overly lean)

Once I get the wastegate situated I will have to do more testing/"tuning"
 
Ok, took the wastegate arm off, and it was definitely too long. I adjusted it so the nub was about halfway showing thru the hole in the wastegate arm. Took it for a quick spin, made some adjustments on my boost controller, and now we're hitting 17-18psi, and still no lean conditions! It is still relearning so I won't call it a success just yet, but I was seeing between 11-12 afr at full boost. So happy to have my car running good and not smoking anymore
 
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