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"Barn Find" 1980 242, Turbo 5.3 L33, 8.8, Haltech

Just beautiful, love that coolant overflow tank too.

What's the benefit of 16v? More juice for more spark or more reliability? Never heard of a 16v charging system.
 
brendon_ak said:
Just beautiful, love that coolant overflow tank too.

What's the benefit of 16v? More juice for more spark or more reliability? Never heard of a 16v charging system.
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As your voltage increases, your amperage decreases for the same power. You can run higher load fuel pumps and accessories with the same gauge wires. The starter is faster, and it puts less strain on the electrical system overall.
 
mopar318 said:
As your voltage increases, your amperage decreases for the same power. You can run higher load fuel pumps and accessories with the same gauge wires. The starter is faster, and it puts less strain on the electrical system overall.
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Huh, didn't know that was a thing, thanks for the breakdown! Is it common for LS swaps or is it a more widespread thing?
 
brendon_ak said:
Huh, didn't know that was a thing, thanks for the breakdown! Is it common for LS swaps or is it a more widespread thing?
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I thought it was mostly for circle track racing, but I could be wrong. Unless your loads are designed for 16v, they will draw more current at a higher voltage. From what I understand it was for carbureted roundy round cars with distributor ignition.
 
I have found that the cheap 3 inch pulley on ebay solves the alternator issues. for some reason my 4.8 doesnt have the voltage dip at high rpm while my 6.0's do have the issue while all having the same alternator.
 
Not much to update. I put in a Tick Performance Slave cylinder for my TKX. I had to cut sluts in the bellhousing to run some hard lines through to the slave cylinder. The TKX doesn't have mid plate, so you typically have to install the bellhousing on the trans and then run the lines. It's pretty difficult to install a big bellhousing trans in a 240 with the bellhousing installed, so this allows me to remove just the trans.

I so ready for good weather to drive this thing again.

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Nice work getting those detailed pics! I'm sure that car is a handful when you release the ponies to run.

Do you have a plan for air filtration in front of the compressor inlet? I think the Buchka brothers used a 3D scanner to develop a nice air box utilizing that space atop the inner fender / pass. headlight. Apologies if you already detailed this, but I cannot recall seeing that area.

Very impressive build..... there is little doubt that the LS with boost is the ultimate power provider for fit the iconic 240 chassis.
 
DET17 said:
Nice work getting those detailed pics! I'm sure that car is a handful when you release the ponies to run.

Do you have a plan for air filtration in front of the compressor inlet? I think the Buchka brothers used a 3D scanner to develop a nice air box utilizing that space atop the inner fender / pass. headlight. Apologies if you already detailed this, but I cannot recall seeing that area.

Very impressive build..... there is little doubt that the LS with boost is the ultimate power provider for fit the iconic 240 chassis.
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I plan on keeping the turbo-guard as is. I put 2,000+ miles on it last year and didn't see any ill effects. Even the intake air temp sensor is perfectly clean.
 
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The car has been running good so far this year, but I am not entirely satisfied with the manual/turbo LS combo for a street/strip car. I looked at several options and have decided to do a 8HP70 swap. The reason is a 4L80 can get pretty expensive to build and the 8HP70 can be found from $500-$1000 with low miles. The 8HP also likes to party from the factory while the 4L80 can be pretty sloppy.

ZF_Stufenautomatgetriebe_8HP70.jpg


I will probably start it this winter, but will start gathering parts and knowledge.

I will adapt the LS to a ZF 8HP70 from a Dodge Challenger/Charger/300C. I will be going with the adapter plate from Adamat in from Poland.


www.turbolamik.us

TCU TurboLamik FULL KIT

TCU TurboLamik FULL KIT
www.turbolamik.us www.turbolamik.us

For shifters, Ill plan on using paddles from DomiWorks and keeping my clutch pedal to add a clutch position sensor for various functions.

www.turbolamik.us

UNIVERSAL PADDLE SHIFTERS DCT/8HP/PDK

UNIVERSAL PADDLE SHIFTERS DCT/8HP/PDK
www.turbolamik.us www.turbolamik.us

This system should integrate well with my Haltech Nexus.

As far as size goes, the image outlines show the 8HP and the 4L80 to be nearly identical in the tunnel clearance area. I am sure I will have to do some hammering, but nothing too out of the ordinary.

Dr-EFI-Dodge8HP70-008.jpg
 
Awesome, Give the cantcu a look. My friend has a turbolamik and he is not impressed with it. Maxxecu also has a nice controller, im sure you could easily get the haltech to talk to any of those.
 
cosbySweater said:
Awesome, Give the cantcu a look. My friend has a turbolamik and he is not impressed with it. Maxxecu also has a nice controller, im sure you could easily get the haltech to talk to any of those.
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I have been looking at the Turbolamik and the CanTCU. It does seem like a lot of improvement's were made recently to the Turbolamik. From what I've been seeing the Turbolamik is more Race-Car-Esque which is my style anyway.
 
icdpride said:
Dang what seats are those they look awesome.

Also love the color about to paint my wagon and trying to figure out what white to paint it. Would you say in person this color is more cream or brighter white?
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Seats are Recaro LSB that I reupholstered along with the factory back seats.

Paint is Wimbledon White. It's a factory ford color and its more of a beige white.
 
I looked through your posts about the seats, but couldn't find the answer. Did you cut the metal headrest retaining sleeves from a pair of volvo seats and weld them to the recaro backs before reupholstering? Or did the Volvo headrest posts happen to line up with the Recaro seats?
 
I decided to axe the 8HP swap for now. I don't want to beat up the tunnel on this nice car.

I instead opted for a Tilton Twin disc. Changing a clutch and measuring for slave clearance is extremely difficult with it in the car, so I opted to remove it this time. It took less than an hour to get everything disconnected and pull out.

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Hot side looking really nice still.

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New flywheel installed with the included ARP hardware, loctite, and 10 ugga duggas.

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Bellhousing clearance was about .012" out. I used .007" offset dowels and get it in spec. I don't think this was causing any issues before, but it should be good now.

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Tick Slave cylinder measured up and shimmed. I came out with around .13" bearing clearance, which is within the .1"-.15" spec.

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Twin Disc installed and starting to marry the two again. I am 150% glad I pulled the whole combo. Slipping the trans on a twin disc is not easy.

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All ready to slide back in.

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t8fanning said:
I'm kinda surprised it's easier to put in with the engine and transmission mated. Nice work!
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I've always thought pulling them together on a 240 was super easy with the front end pulled off. I drop the crossmember slightly for oil pan clearance and it slides right in. Intake has a single connector for the injectors and two AN fuel feeds. Turbo stuff is all v-band. I set it up to be easily serviced and I am glad I did.

Unlike a t56, the bell housing can’t be installed first. That prevent you from installing the transmission/bellhousing together on a 240 with limited tunnel/firewall space to pull the trans back far enough.

Pair that with getting the bearing height set up correctly, and the bellhousing measured for concentricity, pulling was the way to go.
 
I have been slow to get this back together.

Engine/Trans back in. It went crazy fast this time. Drop the subframe down about 1/2" and the whole deal slides in without issues. Went back to the smaller clutch master and added a clutch switch for 2 step and NLS.

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