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"Barn Find" 1980 242, Turbo 5.3 L33, 8.8, Haltech

mopar318 said:
I was running the stock 165-amp alternator, and it was working fine until I did some 7,000 rpm pulls. It started squeaking really bad. It was also giving eratic voltage from 13.5 to 14.5 up and down. I pulled off the alternator and took it apart. The shaft was bent by .10" overall.

I grabbed a 335-1068 AC Delco 105 amp from Amazon for $87. Pinned the connector to match the old alternator and we are back in action. Put about 100 miles on it on Sunday with the new alternator to make sure it can keep up with the fans and electronics. It's holding a steady 14.3-14.4 and 14.1v with the fans running, with a set point of 14.4. It's also 16v compatible, if I ever want to go with a 16v system.

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Have you looked into your alternator rpm at those 7,000rpm shifts? I wonder if one of these might help.

motionraceworks.com

LS 3" OD Billet Overdrive Alternator Pulley 6 Rib 10-10042

Motion Raceworks LS 3" OD Overdrive Alternator Pulley Factory alternators can be very dependable and easy to find, which is why most of the aftermarket industry builds front drive bracketry kits around these pieces. Designed to be used with LS style 6 rib LS Factory style alternators. Simply...
motionraceworks.com motionraceworks.com
 
I got a set of 235/60/15 Hoosier DR2's and 15x8 wheels. It is sitting pretty good, but I need to do a little bit of fender massaging or go 1" higher in the rear. I'd rather not boomer stance it, but I can always adjust up and down if I have a track day planned. My normal wheel/tire setup is a 17x8.5 with a 245/40/17 Toyo R1R.

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mopar318 said:
I picked up my new 242 over the weekend. This was for sale on craigslist for a while at $1500. It had really crappy pictures and looked like a rust bucket. A week ago, I saw it on craigslist again at a much lower price. I went and looked at it not expecting much, but was surprised on how nice it was for the year.

The under body was extremely clean. There is a rust issue on the drivers side quarter panel, but should be an easy fix. There are various spots where with some surface rust. If you know the salt belt, its like a 10 year old car. I came home, looked over all of the photos I took and made an offer on it.:)

The car has not ran in 10 years. I got it off the trailer, and the first thing I did is clean it inside and out. I put a battery in it, and gave it some cranks. It fires, but won't run. Fuel pressure is at 5 psi before the filter. All injectors are getting fuel, and I have good spark. I think it either needs a secondary fuel pump or a Can you send me a photo under the hood?
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Can you send me a photo under the hood?
 
I had to do something I have been dreading about...pulling the rear quarter panel. Since I have new (well new 8 years ago or so), I was as careful as possible but still had a few casualties. Nothing that can't be touched up, and it is way better than if I had some tire/fender contact. I already had the lips cut and tacked together, so I just cut the tacks and started pushing out the rear gradually. I will go in a clean up the inner Sheetmetal later.

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I made it to the track on Saturday. It was a roll racing only event. I made 8 runs and my best was 130.05 MPH. All of my runs were consistent around 128-129 mph. I was spinning at the start of the "race" but I kept forgetting to lower my tire pressure. I was at 30psi and realized later only the center half of the tire was actually making contact. I probably could have gotten a few more mph out of this setup.

Next up is fuel system upgrades. I am going to go with a Radium surge tank with twin 450's, fed by the in tank pump. I get fuel cut when near 1/2 tank due to fuel sloshing in the factory tank.

I am running 93 octane. I was commanding 11psi and it is peaking 15ish. I tried commanding 13psi but it spiked to 18.5psi and my timing tables dip timing. I need to try duty cycle boost control instead of target boost.


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You might consider the Deatschwerks DW810 fuel pump. It's smaller with less current draw and shouldn't have any problem with your fuel demands.
 
t8fanning said:
You might consider the Deatschwerks DW810 fuel pump. It's smaller with less current draw and shouldn't have any problem with your fuel demands.
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I've looked at those. I am trying take care of two issues. Making sure I have enough fuel and making sure I don't get fuel starvation. The problem is worse in autocross hard cornering and braking. Anything under 3/4 tank in a slalom and it loses fuel pressure momentarily. I have a 255 for a lift pump and two 450's already on hand as well.

The more I think about it, I think this one is actually the go to.

www.radiumauto.com

MPFST-R, Multi-Pump Fuel Surge Tank, Regulated

A fuel surge tank (FST) is designed to prevent fuel starvation on vehicles with inadequate fuel tank baffling. Fuel is supplied to the surge tank by a lift pump, which in most cases is the OEM in-tank fuel pump. The volume of fuel inside the surge tank acts as a buffer to always keep the FST...
www.radiumauto.com www.radiumauto.com

I can eliminate my return line and regulator in the engine bay. (Repurpose that to another project I have going)
 
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