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Bleeding Air

Khrrck said:
It will come out as the pump runs. Don't even need to let it sit if there's enough fluid in there.
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Does the ambient temperature affect the level of the fluid. let's say it's 102 and the car has been sitting all night. Do I start the car, wait four minutes, use the hot side of the dipstick or start the car, wait four minutes, and use the cold side?
 
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1990Volvo740GLNonTurbo said:
Does the ambient temperature affect the level of the fluid. let's say it's 102 and the car has been sitting all night. Do I start the car use the hot side of the dipstick or start the car, wait four minutes, and use the cold side?
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Wait for the thermostat on the dash to reach normal full operating temp to use the warm side of the dipstick. The temperature of the transmission fluid will approach that of the radiator coolant temperature, so for a fully warmed (hot) engine that's closer to 180-200 degF (depending on thermostat) as opposed to a 102 degF ambient temperature. Remember to pause it through all the gears before measuring it with the engine still running to get an accurate reading. If the dipstick is difficult to read, try rotating it 180 degrees. The transmission cooler fills from the bottom up, so any air will quickly find its way to the top of the system for a proper measurement.

If you ever overfill it, disconnect the transmission fluid return line from the top of the rad and have an assistant start the engine for a brief moment while you hold a container under the fitting held at an angle. A short length of vinyl tubing slipped over the threads can be useful for doing it without an assistant. A whole lot easier, less messy and more accurate than removing the pan plug to drain a little off then trying to thread it back in while fluid is running down your hand. The brass fitting in the plastic side tank is fairly solid, but be sure to use a counterhold wrench when trying to crack open the fitting. Precede that with a few goes of penetrating oil if needed. Squeezing slightly offset handles between two hands is usually what's needed to crack it while minimizing the stress on the plastic. A flare wrench is recommended to avoid damaging the brass collar, but as long as an open end wrench fits snugly and is held perpendicular then you should be okay.
 
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945T said:
Wait for the thermostat on the dash to reach normal full operating temp to use the warm side of the dipstick. The temperature of the transmission fluid will approach that of the radiator coolant temperature, so for a fully warmed (hot) engine that's closer to 180-200 degF (depending on thermostat) as opposed to a 102 degF ambient temperature. Remember to pause it through all the gears before measuring it with the engine still running to get an accurate reading. If the dipstick is difficult to read, try rotating it 180 degrees. The transmission cooler fills from the bottom up, so any air will quickly find its way to the top of the system for a proper measurement.

If you ever overfill it, disconnect the transmission fluid return line from the top of the rad and have an assistant start the engine for a brief moment while you hold a container under the fitting held at an angle. A short length of vinyl tubing slipped over the threads can be useful for doing it without an assistant. A whole lot easier, less messy and more accurate than removing the pan plug to drain a little off then trying to thread it back in while fluid is running down your hand. The brass fitting in the plastic side tank is fairly solid, but be sure to use a counterhold wrench when trying to crack open the fitting. Precede that with a few goes of penetrating oil if needed. Squeezing slightly offset handles between two hands is usually what's needed to crack it while minimizing the stress on the plastic. A flare wrench is recommended to avoid damaging the brass collar, but as long as an open end wrench fits snugly and is held perpendicular then you should be okay.
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I was reading elsewhere that the rectangular notch on the dipstick has a purpose, what is it?
 
Use the hot side after driving for ~20 to 30 minutes. I would recommend warming up via idle and trying to match the fluid level to the cold side. From there it should be fine to drive it for awhile to get it truly hot. Just make sure you measure it while it's running, and be sure to shift through each gear for a few seconds and wait 2 minutes after that before measuring for the most accuracy.
 
1990Volvo740GLNonTurbo said:
I was reading elsewhere that the rectangular notch on the dipstick has a purpose, what is it?
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I always thought the notch near the plastic tip was just a flex point, but now you've made me look it up. It's apparently a transmission fluid level indicator for a stone cold engine that hasn't been running and the fluid has had a chance to drip down for a few hours. When re-filling a trans that's the approximate fluid level you should aim for before starting and running. You're supposed to wipe the dipstick clean and re-insert it before reading the level. I'd never read that before in all my years of owning and maintaining bricks. It's not in the Volvo AW Service Manual. The reference I found was in the 700/900 FAQ. You learn something every day!
 
945T said:
I always thought the notch near the plastic tip was just a flex point, but now you've made me look it up. It's apparently a transmission fluid level indicator for a stone cold engine that hasn't been running and the fluid has had a chance to drip down for a few hours. When re-filling a trans that's the approximate fluid level you should aim for before starting and running. You're supposed to wipe the dipstick clean and re-insert it before reading the level. I'd never read that before in all my years of owning and maintaining bricks. It's not in the Volvo AW Service Manual. The reference I found was in the 700/900 FAQ. You learn something every day!
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I believe that information is in my TSB manual for 240. Pre delivery checks section if I recall correctly.
 
945T said:
I always thought the notch near the plastic tip was just a flex point, but now you've made me look it up. It's apparently a transmission fluid level indicator for a stone cold engine that hasn't been running and the fluid has had a chance to drip down for a few hours. When re-filling a trans that's the approximate fluid level you should aim for before starting and running. You're supposed to wipe the dipstick clean and re-insert it before reading the level. I'd never read that before in all my years of owning and maintaining bricks. It's not in the Volvo AW Service Manual. The reference I found was in the 700/900 FAQ. You learn something every day!
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So the filling can be done cold and not started in the morning using the notch as a reference.
 
945T said:
I always thought the notch near the plastic tip was just a flex point, but now you've made me look it up. It's apparently a transmission fluid level indicator for a stone cold engine that hasn't been running and the fluid has had a chance to drip down for a few hours. When re-filling a trans that's the approximate fluid level you should aim for before starting and running. You're supposed to wipe the dipstick clean and re-insert it before reading the level. I'd never read that before in all my years of owning and maintaining bricks. It's not in the Volvo AW Service Manual. The reference I found was in the 700/900 FAQ. You learn something every day!
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This is helpful information especially since it comes from a 700 series source.
After reading Max's post, I'm concerned about my dipstick not being the right one.
 
OntarioMax said:
What is the proper length for the dipstick. My 240 came without one and I salvaged one from a 740 without thinking it makes a difference
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Good question. You do need to be careful with the dipstick length in 240s as two different lengths were used. Some of the early 240 dipstick tubes and dipsticks can be 4-1/2" longer than the later 240 and the 700/900 ones. The changeover year in the 240s appears to be 1988.

You need to measure the dipstick tube to be sure, but you can tell if you need the longer or shorter one from how high the top of the trans fill dipstick tube is compared to the top of the engine oil dipstick tube. If they're about the same height then it's the longer dipstick. If the top of the trans dipstick tube is about 4"-5" lower then it's the shorter one. Volvo lists the dipstick tubes and dipsticks as one part so it's not clear from the parts catalog that there are different dipsticks.

I just checked. For the longer dispstick from an early 240 with AW70 the Volvo p/n on it is 3549339. Overall length is 28", 22-1/2" from collar to tip, 19-1/2" from collar to hot Max mark. The corresponding dipstick tube is 1220067. Fitment is listed as auto trans only and 240/260 1979-1987

For the shorter dipstick from a 940 with AW71 the p/n is 1220695. Overall length is 23-1/2", 18" from collar to tip, 15-1/4" to hot Max. I'm guessing that should match the one you have from a 740. The corresponding dipstick tube is 1220295 (supercedes 1220151). Fitment is listed as all years, all transmissions auto and manual, 240/260/700/900, 1979-1995.

There are corresponding aftermarket ones that may be a slightly different overall length from the Volvo ones, but the Max mark should be at the same height. There are also other Volvo ones from different models of varying lengths.

BTW, the hot side says 90C/190F (so thermostat temperature as I previously guessed), cold side says 40C/105F (so a running engine that's just starting to get warm).

In both lengths of dipsticks there's a notch near the top like the notch near the tip. So another mystery that begs to be solved. If you insert the dipstick with the upper notch aligned to the top of the tube using your thumb nail in the notch to stop it going lower then the tip of the plastic part now corresponds to the hot Max mark. For a running, hot engine that serves as your over-full mark if the plastic part comes back out with fluid on it other than at the very tip and your top-up mark if it comes out completely dry.
 
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How about the male fitting that extends from the Coolant radiator top, the fluid exit? Where can I get a replacement, it looks like it unbolts from the radiator. mine it stripping.
Or, how about me hack sawing 1/2 inch of the tip.? About 3/4 " was never used, or reached for fastening. Would that work?
 
OntarioMax said:
How about the male fitting that extends from the Coolant radiator top, the fluid exit? Where can I get a replacement, it looks like it unbolts from the radiator. mine it stripping.
Or, how about me hack sawing 1/2 inch of the tip.? About 3/4 " was never used, or reached for fastening. Would that work?
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I don't believe the trans fluid line brass fittings on the rad are replaceable. From what I recall they're a press fit, not a threaded fit. They're attached to a small metal plate on the inside of the tank. It might vary by manufacturer exactly how they're made. If they're a threaded fit then you may be able to remove and replace it with one from a similar rad. If it's just the threads damaged then you may be able to carefully cut the damaged end off, but it may be tricky to round the end to properly seal with the flared tube. It's not under much pressure, so anything oil proof would work to seal it. Teflon tape could be used, but it may be tricky to get a good seal. You don't want any bits of tape or goop going down into the trans. .
 
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The transmission cooler is a separate heat exchanger inside the end tank. I don't think the fitting is replaceable. You can try to repair the threads with a thread chaser. It should be 1/2" - 20.
images
 
I don't know what size he has but I think Max has something similar to this.
Mine seems to unscrew from the radiator and the cutting he mentioned looks like it could work depending upon the length of his radiator nipple.
My fitting is all the way on but there are threads, unused to spare.
 

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This is what I meant.
Lopping off a piece and then beveling the tip.
If I can do that it should work. the threads that far back have never ever been reached and so are good.
Is there anything special about the tip except or the bevel
 

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