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Brakes build pressure, junction box dripping 1988- 240

What material should these be made from? I'm finishing up my model to recreate the 91 model year junction box, just need to know what material to order. Then hopefully I can offer them to TB for cheaper than the MTC box.
 
Do you have access to an XRF gun? I think they were made of brass but I can't be sure. I just know they were heavy like brass.
3540084-1991-240.jpg
 
Electrolysis might be an issue with stainless. Traditionally, brake junctions are made of softer metals like brass or aluminum.
 
Jegs makes them from brass then chrome plates them to make 'em look fancy. No word on what alloy.

This random brass company uses leaded brass alloys.


As long as you can get a good surface finish and it doesn't corrode in outdoors conditions I think you should be okay.
 
The sensor delete brake junction block even if you can get it is still not Ideal if your brakes fail you will have only half your brakes diagonally, as opposed to just the front or rear. like most cars. I replaced my octopus block as well before and it leaked internally pretty much immediately. Volvo had a cool Idea and it worked well but you just can't get a good replacement anymore IMO. Your better off just getting 4 of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/391976993244 T in at each front corner, then one T for the front brakes for the master cylinder, and one for the rear brakes. you will need these nuts as well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN39CYG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8
 
The sensor delete brake junction block even if you can get it is still not Ideal if your brakes fail you will have only half your brakes diagonally, as opposed to just the front or rear. like most cars.
That's not correct. The 240 layout has each circuit feeding both front calipers and one rear caliper. So if you lose pressure in one side of the system, you still can use 3 of the 4 calipers.

I'd much rather have that setup than have a chance of losing all front braking.
 
That's not correct. The 240 layout has each circuit feeding both front calipers and one rear caliper. So if you lose pressure in one side of the system, you still can use 3 of the 4 calipers.

I'd much rather have that setup than have a chance of losing all front braking.
I was wrong but, ehhhh its not really 3 out of 4 brakes, your getting half the caliper working so its flexing it and still not going to be braking properly, not to mention your gonna be diving to the right or left under braking ask me how I know :rolleyes:. I'm not sure if everyone else does it the way I mentioned above because its simpler, less soft lines/hard lines and you don't need 4 piston calipers or..... its just a better way of doing things who knows. Personally I'd rather be braking in a straight line even if it is a bit sketch if its just the rear brakes.
 
What material should these be made from? I'm finishing up my model to recreate the 91 model year junction box, just need to know what material to order. Then hopefully I can offer them to TB for cheaper than the MTC box.

Is this for real? I can be a tester for you, if this comes to fruition. ;)
 
UhI was wrong but, ehhhh its not really 3 out of 4 brakes, your getting half the caliper working so its flexing it and still not going to be braking properly, not to mention your gonna be diving to the right or left under braking ask me how I know :rolleyes:. I'm not sure if everyone else does it the way I mentioned above because its simpler, less soft lines/hard lines and you don't need 4 piston calipers or..... its just a better way of doing things who knows. Personally I'd rather be braking in a straight line even if it is a bit sketch if its just the rear brakes.
The step bore master cylinder was developed by Volvo for the 240. Although the dual diagonal system was introduced in '66 for the '67 model year on the 140 series Volvo deemed the extended pedal travel with a failed circuit unacceptable. The step bore master works so well that you may not notice that a circuit has failed. Chalk up another one for safety and the clever engineers at Volvo.
 
If you’re looking for brake T’s, it’s hard to beat the empi/vw m10 bubble flare tee with the mounting hole. Easy-peasy as it’s the same thread and flare type as OE volvo.

You’ll need 4 if removing the junction block on a non-abs car, two for the junction block and one for each side on the front.


Non bezos link:
 

Spotted this on ebay, if the threads are correct you could likely use two of those to replicate the 91 junction, just need to find one from a cheaper seller.
 

Spotted this on ebay, if the threads are correct you could likely use two of those to replicate the 91 junction, just need to find one from a cheaper seller.
Im hoping to sell the 91 remake for 70-80 bucks, this also needs to be made for the right flair IIRC
 

Spotted this on ebay, if the threads are correct you could likely use two of those to replicate the 91 junction, just need to find one from a cheaper seller.
Something for a domestic car is not going to have the same threads or flare type to use with a 240. Although the brake pipe size is probably the same.
 
I was wrong but, ehhhh its not really 3 out of 4 brakes, your getting half the caliper working so its flexing it and still not going to be braking properly, not to mention your gonna be diving to the right or left under braking ask me how I know :rolleyes:. I'm not sure if everyone else does it the way I mentioned above because its simpler, less soft lines/hard lines and you don't need 4 piston calipers or..... its just a better way of doing things who knows. Personally I'd rather be braking in a straight line even if it is a bit sketch if its just the rear brakes.
It is counterintuitive, however, if you had just the rear brakes the car would be very dangerous under braking. Just the rear brakes will make the car want to swap ends. Just the front brakes will make the car stop in a straight line because the rear tires are rolling maintaining directional control.
 
take the junction block out and gut it. install 2 1/8npt pipe plugs in the center. reassemble and enjoy

I considered this. Would this convert the system to a single circuit?

I've already plugged the sensor port. Been trying to figure what to do for sealing the center section to maintain 2 separate circuits.


[SIZE=3]Pietercc[/SIZE]

It is, I will try to finalize things this weekend and get a handful made before davis

Awesome!
 
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