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Broken pin in lock?

5

504

below the surface
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Location
New Orleans
1986 245

My front driver side lock has become more and more difficult to operate over a period of several months.

I have to jiggle the key into different positions in the lock to get it to move. Once I can get the key to begin turning, it turns easily.

I noticed that the key was worn. So I obtained the key code from the Volvo dealer and had a local locksmith cut some new keys from the code. This helped with one of the other locks (storage compartment) but had no effect on the front driver side lock. Over time, it has only gotten more difficult to get it to work.

Of course, I have sprayed in copious amounts of lubricant. This had no effect.

The locksmith that cut the new keys suggested that a pin in the lock might be broken.

Can anyone confirm if this diagnosis is correct?

Besides replacing the lock, is there any hope for fixing the lock?

If so, what are the recommended repair procedures?

How difficult is it to replace the lock? If that is the recommended course of action, anyone who has a good working lock, please message me.
 
VP Auto offers locks with keys.

Lock kits 240/260

VP Autoparts USA offers high quality car parts for renovation & overhaul of classic Volvo's like Volvo PV 444, 544, Volvo 121, Volvo P1800, Volvo 140/164 & Volvo 240. We also renovate Volvo carburettors and produce new interior for classic Volvos.
vp-autoparts.com vp-autoparts.com

Automotive locks will normally use single piece wafers instead of the two piece pin found in most house locks, I don't think the lock would turn at all if a wafer broke, I think it's just worn out. Make sure to use a dry lubricant in the lock like graphite otherwise lubricants like grease or wd40 will attract dirt and wear the lock out, have you also lubricated the linkage in the door? The driver side lock on my 242 is normally difficult to turn and takes a jiggle but the passenger side feels like a brand new lock.
 
504 said:
My front driver side lock has become more and more difficult to operate over a period of several months.

I noticed that the key was worn.
Click to expand...
As Radtap mentioned, these locks use flat wafers.
Instead of pushing a round pin up using just one side of the key, the wafers have a rectangular opening that the key goes through, so the key will work either way.

Over time, not only does the key wear down and not lift the wafers far enough to get them into the "unlock" position, the wafers' holes can also get a notch worn into them from that nasty little mini hacksaw you keep ramming in and out. That can make the worn wafers not lift far enough even with a new key.

If you want to save that particular lock, for nostalgia or "originality", you'll need to have it "re-keyed" with new wafers to match your "new" old key.


waferworn.jpg
 
I have ordered a new lock from VP Autoparts to get the door working once again.

But after I have it, how do I go about getting the old lock re-keyed with new wafers?

Is there a source for wafers? Or someone who can repair the lock?
 
For those suffering a lock problem, here are the results.

I ordered a replacement lock from VP Autoparts. It's pretty easy to install. VP sent a couple links which were very helpful.

Removing and installing the lock

More on removing and installing the lock

The old lock came out and the new lock went in pretty easily. But then the real fun began: the insulation on the wiring harness to the power lock actuators had disintegrated.

Fixing the power lock actuator wiring harness

I rebuilt the harness and the power locks now pop up and down like they should.

Another minor thing with the VP replacement lock. The lock appears to be an exact match, but the key is not. It looks like a regular Volvo key, but it's got a plastic casing on the end that bulks it up. I removed the plastic and it turns out it's a weird shape key. Had to drill a hole to get it on my key ring.

Then I went to my locksmith and had a copy made on the X140 blank, which matches the Volvo shape.

I checked with my locksmith about rebuilding the original lock, but they didn't have the wafers needed.
 
I bet there's some sort of wafer kit which can be ordered... if you can figure out what it's called. It seems unlikely that these would be the only locks to use those wafers or that everyone who ever needs one just files them out of sheet stock.
 
Neiman lock cylinders like in a 240 were used in Porsche Mercedes, etc, The parts would be out there if you had European contacts for locksmith parts. I can understand a US locksmith not having the path to get parts for Volvo locks. :( HiPerfauto told me he can redo locks for my Amazon. So he may have contacts for a 240 lock cylinder repair.
 
504 said:
For those suffering a lock problem, here are the results.

I ordered a replacement lock from VP Autoparts. It's pretty easy to install. VP sent a couple links which were very helpful.

Removing and installing the lock

More on removing and installing the lock

The old lock came out and the new lock went in pretty easily. But then the real fun began: the insulation on the wiring harness to the power lock actuators had disintegrated.

Fixing the power lock actuator wiring harness

I rebuilt the harness and the power locks now pop up and down like they should.

Another minor thing with the VP replacement lock. The lock appears to be an exact match, but the key is not. It looks like a regular Volvo key, but it's got a plastic casing on the end that bulks it up. I removed the plastic and it turns out it's a weird shape key. Had to drill a hole to get it on my key ring.

Then I went to my locksmith and had a copy made on the X140 blank, which matches the Volvo shape.

I checked with my locksmith about rebuilding the original lock, but they didn't have the wafers needed.
Click to expand...
The large squared off rubber casing meants that the key is a 740 style key. Volvo doesn't make the rounded 240 master key anymore. The valet key is still available, but won't operate your glovebox lock even if it's keyed to match the car's code. So, you have the option of the 700 series key or to get a generic key, which is what I suspect you had previously, since all Neiman/Ymos Volvo keys have that weird "mickey mouse ears" flange when the rubber part is removed.
 
Yes, my locksmith just used the generic X140 blank. (They previously used the same blank to cut new keys per my code.) While I have to use two keys at the moment, at least they match.
 
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