Building the 242 Turbo Volvo should have....

[lookforjoe]

Just read through the thread this evening. Great work & result!
Curious as to why you ended up deleting the eFan & going back to a fan clutch setup?

 

[wcirco]

Just read through the thread this evening. Great work & result!
Curious as to why you ended up deleting the eFan & going back to a fan clutch setup?

A few different reasons. For one, the VW radiator temp switch does not work very well. Even with the lower temp version the fan would not kick on until 210-215 degrees at the cylinder head. I could now wire in the ecu fan control to fix this though.
The second reason was the electrical load. I currently have an 80A denso, with all of the accessories on and the fan running on high (AC on) it could not keep up with the demand. There is not much room to fit a bigger higher output alternator.
Lastly, the AC performance is much better with the clutch fan. It just moves a lot more air.

 

[wcirco]

I have been driving the car for the past few days, I'm happy to report the steering and suspension is now dialed. One quirk about this car that I have been ignoring until now is how lazy the turbo spools. It will not make any real boost until about 3500 rpm. Being this car has a stock Garrett T3, it should be making boost 1000 -1200 rpm sooner. This is most noticeable at part throttle with high loads. The boost gauge will sit at 2-3 psi, you can keep easing into the throttle and it doesn't change, then all of a sudden WHAM it makes full boost. Its a hard shock on the driveline and will blow the tires loose unexpectedly in the rain. From the drivers seat this feels like the CBV is hanging open then slamming shut. I had tried swapping CBVs a few months back with no real improvement to this. I had a turbosmart plumback originally, I'm currently using a Kyser brand CBV for a Porsche 911 turbo. Has anyone encountered this before?

 

[DET17]

I have been driving the car for the past few days, I'm happy to report the steering and suspension is now dialed. One quirk about this car that I have been ignoring until now is how lazy the turbo spools. It will not make any real boost until about 3500 rpm. Being this car has a stock Garrett T3, it should be making boost 1000 -1200 rpm sooner. This is most noticeable at part throttle with high loads. The boost gauge will sit at 2-3 psi, you can keep easing into the throttle and it doesn't change, then all of a sudden WHAM it makes full boost. Its a hard shock on the driveline and will blow the tires loose unexpectedly in the rain. From the drivers seat this feels like the CBV is hanging open then slamming shut. I had tried swapping CBVs a few months back with no real improvement to this. I had a turbosmart plumback originally, I'm currently using a Kyser brand CBV for a Porsche 911 turbo. Has anyone encountered this before?

My original Garrett T3 was slow to make boost, then hit hard (after you were behind the other fellow). By comparison, the Mitsu 19t I ended up with would boost near immediately. When I sold the Garrett, it clearly needed a rebuild of the CHRA. What is the condition of yours? Also what size turbine housing do you have? From memory I had the 0.48 A/R.... not the big 0.63.

 

[wcirco]

My original Garrett T3 was slow to make boost, then hit hard (after you were behind the other fellow). By comparison, the Mitsu 19t I ended up with would boost near immediately. When I sold the Garrett, it clearly needed a rebuild of the CHRA. What is the condition of yours? Also what size turbine housing do you have? From memory I had the 0.48 A/R.... not the big 0.63.

They are slower than the TD04s for sure, but something is definitely wrong here. When this engine was in the 760 it wasn't nearly as lazy as it is now. I have owned several 700 series turbo cars and none of them have been this lazy. It acts like a giant boost leak that suddenly seals.

As far as I'm aware its never been rebuilt. Its a true early T3 without water cooling and the .48 ar turbine housing. Shaft has no noticeable play but oil consumption is not great. 1 quart every 5-700 miles currently. I was planning to yank it for an overhaul over the winter.

 

[dl242gt]

My original T3 with the .63 housing wouldn't do anything till 3k rpms. Then you got full boost. So, in an effort to improve things. I put the Sierra Cosworth .48 T3 housing on. Now it will give you a bit of boost about 2400 or so. Then when it gets to 3k it goes to full boost so it's a lot better but still laggy compared to a Mitsu turbo.

 

[wcirco]

Well the last 24 hours have yielded some interesting developments. I swore I had hooked up the check engine light to the EZK but in fact I had not. There were two codes in it, 1-4-3 and 1-4-4. Resetting the ecu and swapping the knock sensor, it ran better for a short time. The 1-4-4 code came back and the car became lazy once again. I checked the load signal by back probing pin 8 on the EZK, the signal looked good and consistent. I swapped the LH box with another along with the fuel pump relay. At first the car ran great, then flooring it resulted in a big hiccup and it was back to being very lazy. This time it had a 1-4-2 code. Threewagons suggested leaving the battery unhooked overnight, with nothing to loose I gave it try. Sure enough I drove the car this morning and it was perfectly fine. No codes. I'm going to swap back in the chipped LH box and see what happens.

 

[Sharpie_Eastern]

Hey, not sure if you have seen my post before but if not, you can actually build your own junction block using off the shelf parts from GKTech. This is what I'm currently running in my 240 and it's been working great so far.

DIY 240 Junction Block | 1991 Style

For you e-fan cooling fan troubles: I've ran into the same issue with other temp sensor triggering way to high of a point for the 240 with a turbo. I'm using pretty much the same setup as you with a 940 fan and Volvo fan controller. My solution was to run a 160F on/145F off switched wired into my e-fan controller. This keeps my temperature right in the middle. The fan turns on slightly above half and brings it back down to AT or just why of the middle on the gauge. I installed this switch into the unused port on my radiator, it an M22x1.5 to 1/8npt adapter to install it into the radiator.

These are the two parts I used:
Temp Switch
M22x1.5 to 1/8 NPT

As far as the voltage issue tho, I'm actually dealing with the same thing for my e-fan