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CD009 Swap Guide 7/900 Edition.

volvosruinedmylife said:
Generic oil? I hope you know that you are not supposed to run the factory oil that it comes filled with from the factory. That oil is strictly for storage and transport. I filed mine with redline as suggested by z1 and pretty much everywhere. I wonder if the factory oil might be better. It's like my suncros work to well.
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I think I was running Valvoline in the correct weight or whatever was on the parts store shelf.
 
JohnMc said:
You can tell easily from pics because they're made for a concentric style clutch slave, not the external slave and clutch fork like the CD00 transmissions. I think they came in later (or all?) 370Z's and the G37's as well.

In typical 'FS' pics, if there's not a clear tag, it's pretty much impossible to tell an early CD00 from a late one. And to a tiny (probably non-existent at this point) the JK's were sort of hidden from the growing CD00 transmission demand as people started to use them for swaps.
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Paid $800 like 3 years ago for mine from a used car parts yard. It's from a 2009 G37. I just called to get the price for another one as I'd like to have a spare at hand. Lowest price is $1800 CAD for one from a 2010 370z. Another yard quoted me $2700 CAD for one from a 2009 370z. Cleanest one from the first yard I called is from a 2016 370z, 16k km for $2200 CAD. So bottom line, prices have gone up quite a bit in the last 3 years for these transmissions.
 
poulrais said:
Paid $800 like 3 years ago for mine from a used car parts yard. It's from a 2009 G37. I just called to get the price for another one as I'd like to have a spare at hand. Lowest price is $1800 CAD for one from a 2010 370z. Another yard quoted me $2700 CAD for one from a 2009 370z. Cleanest one from the first yard I called is from a 2016 370z, 16k km for $2200 CAD. So bottom line, prices have gone up quite a bit in the last 3 years for these transmissions.
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Yep, drift tax, and even the old nuclear car guys use them now. That's why I bought w brand new one. I actually had a used one but ended up selling it. I would like to find another for my 744 but only I'd I can find a cheap one.
 
FWIW, when I drove the 370Z in Grand Am, we had to do a LOT of expensive work to make that gearbox hold 465ish HP for 2.5 hours. Power holding was fine, but it built heat like crazy as the stint wore on and would cause all sorts of problems. We ended up with giant coolers for the box and the diff, and micropolishing/REM coating everything inside, and it still wasn't very fast-shifting by the end, although it was reliable.

My money is probably going to that new TKO box when the T5 gives up.
 
msweeney said:
FWIW, when I drove the 370Z in Grand Am, we had to do a LOT of expensive work to make that gearbox hold 465ish HP for 2.5 hours. Power holding was fine, but it built heat like crazy as the stint wore on and would cause all sorts of problems. We ended up with giant coolers for the box and the diff, and micropolishing/REM coating everything inside, and it still wasn't very fast-shifting by the end, although it was reliable.

My money is probably going to that new TKO box when the T5 gives up.
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That's interesting. It doesn't seem to run any warmer than what I had in my car, but I am probably only 300rwhp. And not driving endurance racing. Surprised that's not talked about more if it's a normal issue. What year was the car?
 
volvosruinedmylife said:
That's interesting. It doesn't seem to run any warmer than what I had in my car, but I am probably only 300rwhp. And not driving endurance racing. Surprised that's not talked about more if it's a normal issue. What year was the car?
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I'm surprised too, but we might just have been our use. Street driving and trackdays are nothing like racing in terms of the total loads and consistent extreme use. The differentials were worse than the gearboxes, and would just melt themselves in 20 minutes at first until we put a bunch of cooling work into them. The cars were brand new 2011 370's delivered in late 2010, and were stripped to bare chassis and rebuilt as GS class race cars. Really fun chassis, but the motor wasn't really up to the job until the series allowed a billet crankshaft in 2012.
 
msweeney said:
I'm surprised too, but we might just have been our use. Street driving and trackdays are nothing like racing in terms of the total loads and consistent extreme use. The differentials were worse than the gearboxes, and would just melt themselves in 20 minutes at first until we put a bunch of cooling work into them. The cars were brand new 2011 370's delivered in late 2010, and were stripped to bare chassis and rebuilt as GS class race cars. Really fun chassis, but the motor wasn't really up to the job until the series allowed a billet crankshaft in 2012.
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Could it be from the way they are sitting in the car? I had a 2010 370z Nismo and the belly pan extended much farther to the back than on our Volvos. I think that there is more air flowing around the transmission tunnel in our cars than in the 370z.
 
poulrais said:
Could it be from the way they are sitting in the car? I had a 2010 370z Nismo and the belly pan extended much farther to the back than on our Volvos. I think that there is more air flowing around the transmission tunnel in our cars than in the 370z.
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No, it was internal heat. Helical cut gears experience a pretty serious spreading load under hard acceleration, I think that was the root of the heat. Airflow around the case helps, but maybe a couple degrees. We were getting fluid over 400F.

poulrais said:
I know for sure that the 370z suffers badly from poor engine oil cooling and it's a must to install an oil cooler if you want to drive the car even medium hard.
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There were so many things that needed to be addressed before that car was track ready, but insufficient oil cooling is not at all unusual in modern sports cars. Other issues were cylinder head oil/cam control (we ended up using 350Z HR heads and still had problems), cracking crankshafts, the stock oil pump gear is sintered metal and fails at like 7600rpm, heat rejection in general, and a general lack of competitive horsepower.
 
msweeney said:
No, it was internal heat. Helical cut gears experience a pretty serious spreading load under hard acceleration, I think that was the root of the heat. Airflow around the case helps, but maybe a couple degrees. We were getting fluid over 400F.


There were so many things that needed to be addressed before that car was track ready, but insufficient oil cooling is not at all unusual in modern sports cars. Other issues were cylinder head oil/cam control (we ended up using 350Z HR heads and still had problems), cracking crankshafts, the stock oil pump gear is sintered metal and fails at like 7600rpm, heat rejection in general, and a general lack of competitive horsepower.
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I would guess a lot of these problems you had came from the higher horsepower levels you had. At ~200 RWHP I am probably not creating as much heat. When I changed the oil in the transmission, it did not smell or look burnt. I don't mind measuring and logging the temps for science, I just need to figure out where to put the sensor and find a sensor that fits the threads. The car has been in the trailer since December and I have to finish my other project car before I can mess with it.
 
rb92673 said:
I would guess a lot of these problems you had came from the higher horsepower levels you had. At ~200 RWHP I am probably not creating as much heat. When I changed the oil in the transmission, it did not smell or look burnt. I don't mind measuring and logging the temps for science, I just need to figure out where to put the sensor and find a sensor that fits the threads. The car has been in the trailer since December and I have to finish my other project car before I can mess with it.
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I think that's true, and you are likely to get long service intervals on that box at that power and with those tires, as it's a pretty heavy-duty trans (some pickups in foreign markets came with a variant). I just saw you guys discussing these and even though very few people on this board are likely to build cars that serious and run them that hard, I figured my experience is relevant for the discussion. If you were running a hot LS and big R7s or similar you might find yourself in the same pickle we found ourselves in pretty quick.

I guess the moral of the story is that if you plan on racing more than 400whp hard for more than 20 minutes at a time, you'll need a big cooler for this gearbox, ideally with a fan. The temp sensor is a great idea no matter what the gearbox, because it's always a good idea to know the temps of critical fluids in a race car.
 
msweeney said:
No, it was internal heat. Helical cut gears experience a pretty serious spreading load under hard acceleration, I think that was the root of the heat. Airflow around the case helps, but maybe a couple degrees. We were getting fluid over 400F.


There were so many things that needed to be addressed before that car was track ready, but insufficient oil cooling is not at all unusual in modern sports cars. Other issues were cylinder head oil/cam control (we ended up using 350Z HR heads and still had problems), cracking crankshafts, the stock oil pump gear is sintered metal and fails at like 7600rpm, heat rejection in general, and a general lack of competitive horsepower.
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Ouch... Gonna have to think about a tranny oil cooler then since I'll be putting like 800 hp through the poor thing!
 
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