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CD009 Swap Guide 7/900 Edition.

Shifter location

How far forward or back is the shifter. I?m looking at that collins shifter in the thread description just wondering how much modifications were needed for it to fit. Also if the adapter plate was in the way of the clutch and flywheel.
 
Volvo740brick said:
How far forward or back is the shifter. I?m looking at that collins shifter in the thread description just wondering how much modifications were needed for it to fit. Also if the adapter plate was in the way of the clutch and flywheel.
Click to expand...

Volvo 745:

Here is a picture looking up:
crznB9fl.jpg


and here is a picture looking down:
5k9gRyll.jpg


I don't think the Collins shifter has a reverse lockout. The reverse lockout also makes it easier to find 5th. My first shifter did not have a lockout and 5th was a pain.
 
Questions re Dynamic Damper +

For those that ae running a completed swap several questions:

The trans that i got came with what Nissan refers to as the Dynamic Damper, a bunch of weights mounted at the back end of the trans. Have you left it on or taken it off will no ill effects ?? I am asking because I'm making a new trans cover and should I leave room for it?

What sensors that are on the trans have you been able to use ?
 
Pictures i should have uploaded ages ago

Howdy, so been off the line for a good while now, on the bright side i figured out imgur so ill upload the photos of the brace here.

update on my build, i had clutch issues, and alot of them, i replaced every part of the fluid system only to find out it was the pressure plate that had failed in a weird way giving me the feeling of a leaking slave.
im unsure as to why this happened, though the guy who ended up diagnosing it said it was likely either just a faulty pressure plate which does happen sometimes, or the wrong throwout bearing was used which destroyed the face of the pressure plate, one face needs to be curved the other flat on the two mating faces.
ill check when i get it all apart in the next few weeks.

sorry for the **** drawing, i was pretty early into my apprenticeship when i did it. if i remember ill draw it up properly on fusion 360 and post a link.

https://imgur.com/EeIhMpH
https://imgur.com/UfnCZMY
https://imgur.com/G5bNlvU
https://imgur.com/eZVIIxg
https://imgur.com/vo6bw6y
https://imgur.com/IO2RzQk

EeIhMpH


UfnCZMY


G5bNlvU


eZVIIxg


vo6bw6y


IO2RzQk
 
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In trying to avoid starting a semi-redundant thread, this looks like a good place to piggyback. I'm wondering if there is a tried & true clutch master cylinder for use with the CD009. I'm getting back into the groove of my 2JZGTE 940 (with a CD009 6-speed) build after it took a backseat for a few years. I spent some time today trying to get a clutch pedal but it just doesn't seem to move enough fluid (even after bleeding out all the air). Also on the 740 master cylinder, there is no adjustment for the U-connector to the clutch pedal and there is some "dead" area up top. It looks like both the 740 and 260 use a 3/4" bore so I don't know that there is any advantage to changing it.
 
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Yeah stock stuff works with the Volvo bell housing. If you?re using a 2J you might need to check on a Toyota forums as they might have an answer. Probably need to shim throw out bearing. Can test engagement by having car in the air and turning the wheels in gear to ensure it disengages when clutch is depressed.
 
SEslayer said:
Yeah stock stuff works with the Volvo bell housing. If you?re using a 2J you might need to check on a Toyota forums as they might have an answer. Probably need to shim throw out bearing. Can test engagement by having car in the air and turning the wheels in gear to ensure it disengages when clutch is depressed.
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I'd rather fix it with a master cylinder (if it's truly an issue) because I'm not pulling the engine/trans again to shim anything. Simpler solution is MC. I don't really want to test this in the air because the 2JZ is susceptible to crankwalk when disengaging the clutch on a parked engine.
 
So I just got a kit from speedway motors. wilwood clutch master, with a pedal, it fits in the factory location. and I used a puller slave cylinder. those purple ones they sell.less than 200 dollars but i got it one sale.

I will try to get a photo later.
 
So, put a few miles on mine.
Setup is:
B21ft
Cd00a(brand new)
Yoshifab stage 3 clutch and flywheel, throwout bearing, crossmember,driveshaft
Deeworks adapter.
Autosports engineering top mount shifter.
Factory 3.73 gearing.
Wilwood clutch pedal and master, with puller slave
First off this swap almost broke me, but I think it was worth it. I absolutely love the gearing.
The box is quiet, I don't hear any noise like others have stated.
It's a whole different car now and I love it.

Anyone use the Autosports shifter for the 240? The gears are very close together, and apparently I was supposed to take some material off of the side detents, but I never did it. Just curious on if anyone else has used it.
 
Adding in part numbers and years.

You want CD009 July 2004 or newer. The older ones have synchros that go bad.

Part number - Date
32010CD000 - ’02 Oct
32010CD003 - ’03 May
32010CD006 - ’03 July
32010CD008 - <’04 July
32010CD009 - >’04 July
32010JK400 - '06, November — '07, July
32010JK40C - ’07 July
32010CD00A Current
 
rb92673 said:
Adding in part numbers and years.

You want CD009 July 2004 or newer. The older ones have synchros that go bad.

Part number - Date
32010CD000 - ’02 Oct
32010CD003 - ’03 May
32010CD006 - ’03 July
32010CD008 - <’04 July
32010CD009 - >’04 July
32010JK400 - '06, November — '07, July
32010JK40C - ’07 July
32010CD00A Current
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Yea, but these past numbers are on a tag, that is missing from most of the used ones I have come across.
 
volvosruinedmylife said:
Yea, but these past numbers are on a tag, that is missing from most of the used ones I have come across.
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Truth. The transmission I bought out of someones trunk off craigslist still had a tag on it. Looked pretty new. I only found it because I searched for all the good parts numbers on craigslist in addition to the CD009. If you are searching junkyards for 350z/370z/g35/g37s look for a car built after July '04.
 
rb92673 said:
Truth. The transmission I bought out of someones trunk off craigslist still had a tag on it. Looked pretty new. I only found it because I searched for all the good parts numbers on craigslist in addition to the CD009. If you are searching junkyards for 350z/370z/g35/g37s look for a car built after July '04.
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Good idea, I think I will try and find a used one for my 740 st some point. I keep thinking I can do some other swap for less, but it may not be worth it. Put in some more seat time on my 242 with cd00a and it just shifts so well. Still having s bit of an issue with it coming out of third, on decel. Not sure what can be done. That I think is part of the shifter being relocated on top.
 
volvosruinedmylife said:
Good idea, I think I will try and find a used one for my 740 st some point. I keep thinking I can do some other swap for less, but it may not be worth it. Put in some more seat time on my 242 with cd00a and it just shifts so well. Still having s bit of an issue with it coming out of third, on decel. Not sure what can be done. That I think is part of the shifter being relocated on top.
Click to expand...
What oil are you using? A few races ago it was starting to feel mushy and difficult to shift. Partially because the shifter housing was loose, but I think I had worn out the generic transmission oil. Tightened up the shifter and changed the oil to redline and it is back to crispy shifts.
 
It's a little bit safer to buy a JK40/JK41, since they're basically the same (when you're not using the stock clutch slave anyhow), vs trying to tell the different CD00 types apart when the tag is missing.
 
rb92673 said:
What oil are you using? A few races ago it was starting to feel mushy and difficult to shift. Partially because the shifter housing was loose, but I think I had worn out the generic transmission oil. Tightened up the shifter and changed the oil to redline and it is back to crispy shifts.
Click to expand...
Generic oil? I hope you know that you are not supposed to run the factory oil that it comes filled with from the factory. That oil is strictly for storage and transport. I filed mine with redline as suggested by z1 and pretty much everywhere. I wonder if the factory oil might be better. It's like my suncros work to well.
 
JohnMc said:
It's a little bit safer to buy a JK40/JK41, since they're basically the same (when you're not using the stock clutch slave anyhow), vs trying to tell the different CD00 types apart when the tag is missing.
Click to expand...
What's is the difference? Where can I look for these? Didn't some of the four door infinity cars have them?
 
You can tell easily from pics because they're made for a concentric style clutch slave, not the external slave and clutch fork like the CD00 transmissions. I think they came in later (or all?) 370Z's and the G37's as well.

In typical 'FS' pics, if there's not a clear tag, it's pretty much impossible to tell an early CD00 from a late one. And to a tiny (probably non-existent at this point) the JK's were sort of hidden from the growing CD00 transmission demand as people started to use them for swaps.
 
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