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check engine light from hell!

O

Ozzyd2

New member
Joined
Jul 11, 2017
Got a 91' 940se wagon based in Los Angeles , some mods like: remachined head , ipd turbo cam, 15g turbo with billet turbine, green monster injectors, npr intercooler, 3"downpipe+exhaust , deleted A/c, aw71, aem Wideband , welded diff, suspension and whatnot, EGR car, currently running ECU/ 560(RED LABEL) EZK/149( RED LABEL), as a result car has CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON and the car runs and drives fine as long as you don't go into boost, when it does build boost very laggy, and breaks up entirely , almost like hitting fuel cut, haven't been able to see more than 5 lbs of boost on any gear, afr on idle is stoic, also when on throttle just cruising, when I get off throttle afr spikes to 19-20, and car struggles to get back on throttle. after that idle becomes high goes from 700rpm to about 1500rpm. smells like fuel and gas consumption is terrible, checked the onboard diagnostic box and it spat out the following codes:

slot 2/
2-3-1 -too lean
3-1-1 - speedo faulty
2-3-2 - too rich
slot 6/
4-1-3 -EGR temp sensor feulty (already replaced sensor)
1-4-3 - knock sensor ( already replaced the sensor )

so many questions.....
is my car in limp mode?
why won't it detect new sensors?
is my ecu/ EZK combination not the ideal one?
does my car being EGR have anything to do with it?
how do I remove check engine light?
how is the car both too rich and too lean?
are all these problems related somehow ?
will I ever see 14lbs of boost on my boost gauge? lol

also,
I have an alternative ECU ending in 946( white label) that I've tried and car didn't even start.
in Additon, I have tried alternative EZK units as well like, 140 ( yellow label)chipable ezk and did not work
I tried gold box ending in 207 and also didn't work, tried all combinations of all these units together and the stock pair is the only one that kept the car on or idling correctly.

any and all help will be appreciated,
thanks volvo nerds
 
Ok well it sounds like you have a lot going on here.

Is the car chipped? If so, whose chips?
Did you buy the car modded like this?
Does the speedo work? The car uses it for idle control.
Is your ignition system fresh/known good?

946 ECU is for a non turbo car - would likely just drown it in fuel.
 
Also, if I recall correctly the fault codes are for too rich OR lean. It doesn't make the distinction, one is for idle and one is for part throttle fuel trim. I think the threshold is like 50% fuel trimmed one way or the other so it's way off. S60R injectors as is would roughly get you to that 50%. The car doesn't know how big the injectors are unless it is tuned for it.

You remove the check engine light with proper diagnosis and repair :)
 
Ozzyd2 said:
... green monster injectors ...
Click to expand...
Do you mean green giants, part # 0280155968 ? Those are high-impedance (no resistor pack) 41 lbs/hr injectors, versus the standard "green top" turbo low-impedance (resistor pack needed) 31 lbs/hr injectors. If your ECU isn't chipped to match, you'll have ~33% too much fuel.

To clear fault codes, see: https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineOBDCodes.html
 
https://imgur.com/a/pWX9E8N

If your injectors look like this, its not gonna run right.

In all seriousness, i had a similar issue with that hunting idle. I swapped my lh2.2 87 240 to lh2.4 and the 2.2 dash harness didnt have a provision to send the ecu speedo signal. Ran a wire from my cruise control spades on the back of the dash to the ecu, and now it idles happy after boost. If your speedometer itself behaves, i would be checking the speed signal to ecu.

The computer expects 31# injectors and like others said, its going to open those green giants enough for mid 11 afrs from 31# injectors, which will be well richer than 10:1 without chipping.The fact that you have a running car with high impedance injectors makes me think this is either a +t/turbo swap.
I recently got a set of injectors from a 02ish 2.4t xc70 (bosch pn 0 280 155 759)) that flow 32#/hr, so only a pound off from the stock injectors. Theyve been great so far. Ive got a non turbo engine harness, and didnt want to add the resistor pack.
 
At a high level, I think you have 3 or 4 separate problems:
- wrong injectors giving too much fuel at idle (2-3-2) and at cruise (2-3-1)

- missing VSS speed signal (3-1-1) -- this will give you high idle after hitting 3000+ rpm with some load. It will go away immediately if you turn the engine off&on. Does your speedometer work?

- bad knock sensor (1-4-3) and bad EGR sensor (4-3-1). The bad knock sensor will retard timing by 10degrees (sort of a limp mode). Since you replaced both sensors, these may be a problem with the ground wire on the intake manifold. I'd inspect all the intake grounds carefully.
 
This is my assessment as well. Not too hard to break a ground strap or forget one and obviously the fuel rail has been off before, likely recently.

I'd verify knock sensor torque as well - if you're just blasting the car together it's not too hard to break one.
 
redblockpowered said:
Ok well it sounds like you have a lot going on here.

Is the car chipped? If so, whose chips?
Did you buy the car modded like this?
Does the speedo work? The car uses it for idle control.
Is your ignition system fresh/known good?

946 ECU is for a non turbo car - would likely just drown it in fuel.
Click to expand...
car is currently on stock chips, but the extra ecu and ezk have chips that came with the units, ecu says "LH ROCKET" and ezk says "EZK TURBO" was bought off eBay (d5jlunda) was the seller username , was suppose to be for the injectors and mods I had listed. speedo doesn't work, intermediately comes on and off once week, kicks in only after 40mph tho. ignition system is fresh.
 
bobxyz said:
Do you mean green giants, part # 0280155968 ? Those are high-impedance (no resistor pack) 41 lbs/hr injectors, versus the standard "green top" turbo low-impedance (resistor pack needed) 31 lbs/hr injectors. If your ECU isn't chipped to match, you'll have ~33% too much fuel.

To clear fault codes, see: https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineOBDCodes.html
Click to expand...
yes green giants is what I meant, thank you for the correction. I did the trick where you tie off all the ends on the resistor mounted on engine bay chasis, internet said that was the solution for the impedance difference.
 
bobxyz said:
At a high level, I think you have 3 or 4 separate problems:
- wrong injectors giving too much fuel at idle (2-3-2) and at cruise (2-3-1)

- missing VSS speed signal (3-1-1) -- this will give you high idle after hitting 3000+ rpm with some load. It will go away immediately if you turn the engine off&on. Does your speedometer work?

- bad knock sensor (1-4-3) and bad EGR sensor (4-3-1). The bad knock sensor will retard timing by 10degrees (sort of a limp mode). Since you replaced both sensors, these may be a problem with the ground wire on the intake manifold. I'd inspect all the intake grounds carefully.
Click to expand...
the idle does go back to normal when you turn off and on the car, speedo doesn't work.
will inspect the grounds this week and report back, appreciate the help
 
redblockpowered said:
This is my assessment as well. Not too hard to break a ground strap or forget one and obviously the fuel rail has been off before, likely recently.

I'd verify knock sensor torque as well - if you're just blasting the car together it's not too hard to break one.
Click to expand...
did not torque the sensors so will double check them for cracks
 
Ok I'll tell you now the car will NOT be happy with those injectors and a stock tune.

Your resistor pack fix should be fine. Speedo problem is the cause of the idle trouble.

A lot of those eBay chips are bunk.

Do you have an EGR temp sensor?
 
here are some photos of the extra ecu and ezk with chips , that I tried to use to fix the solution and did not work.
do I need a particular combination of ezk and ecu? can I use any combination of what I do have already? do I just need new chips, if os please send recs and with what stage I should get, and whetherEGRmatters.






 
redblockpowered said:
Ok I'll tell you now the car will NOT be happy with those injectors and a stock tune.

Your resistor pack fix should be fine. Speedo problem is the cause of the idle trouble.

A lot of those eBay chips are bunk.

Do you have an EGR temp sensor?
Click to expand...
what injecotors should I be running then? and egr temp sensor was replaced, so it does have one
 
It sounds like you have a few issues here. The speedo, chips and maybe intake grounds are all causing problems.

You can run any injectors you like but the car has to be tuned for them. I sell chips for LH 2.4 on my site https://www.redblockpowered.com/ and would be happy to answer any questions you might have about it. EGR does matter for tuning the car.

Your diff harness (from the speed sensor in the rear axle into the body) is probably flaky. This is a pretty quick repair, Dave Barton has those harnesses available.

Your knock sensor code won't be fixed by any of those things - something else is wrong. Make sure everything is connected and your harness is in good shape.
 
Replaced diff sensor and wiring
As well as knock sensor ( found an oem one in the junk) one I had replaced was third party. Double checked and cleaned grounds
Made sure correct plug to correct sensor and disconnected negative cable to clear codes ,
Speedo was not fixed, no signal still, however
To my surprise check engine light went away!!!
Car idles smooth, afr good, goes a bit wonky down to 11 briefly anfree high rpm off throttle but levels off on idle and broken up onto heavy throttle , but car still won’t build boost, no more than 4 pounds of boost, feels and sounds like it want to go but then afr
Goes wonky and I let off, scared to ruin it ,very odd tho
Checked the box again and spat out new codes

Slot 2
311 Speedo signal absent
232 not sure what this one is, something about afr off?

Slot 6
241 egr system flow too low

Can any one shed some light ?
 
241 is from the temp sensor for the EGR, does your car have a wire connected to the physical EGR valve? That CEL only registers after you've spent some consistent time on the highway. 207 is for cars with the temp sensor but the 241 code is baked into the chip so if you had the correct chip for your car (if you don't have EGR temp) then you won't get that code.

I agree with RBP, your ECU can't just be guessing what injectors you're running.
 
It took me a few EGR temp sensors from the yard before I got a good one. Then there is valve-mounted vs pipe-mounted sensor. I think I recall there were resistance differences between the two? I also think I recall high or open resistance on the bad ones.
 
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