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Clunking noise on 90 740 only when turning while hitting bumps

mattd1205

mattd1205

Active member
Joined
Dec 5, 2014
Location
Harbor City, CA
I got a 90 740 that is knocking when turning on a slight curve and going over road irregularities. It only does it when going to the left. Noise is coming from the passenger side The car has pretty much all new suspension components such as new control arms, kyb excel G strut cartridges, strut mounts, ball joints, adjustable radius rod, polyurethane cone bushings, springs, Ipd sways and Dorman end links. The Ipd sways are used and I reused the old sway bar mount bushings. I torqued everything to spec and used new distorted thread locknuts on each suspension component. I’m at a complete loss considering everything is new and was installed within the last 2000 miles. Any ideas on what to check first?
 
Oh man, I dealt with this too for a bit after refreshing my whole front suspension, it drove me insane. I'd be willing to bet it's your strut housing gland nuts that need to be tightened slightly further. Unless you tighten them in a vice, the strut will have barely enough movement to clunk a bit on turns and bumps. I was able to jack up he front end slightly with the wheel still on the ground, to get a view of the strut housing. From there I could slide up the boot and get a gland nut wrench through the spring to tighten it further. I think I had another quarter to half a turn left in each of mine, and the clunking went away after that.

I used antiseize on mine too, since I sheared and destroyed the last set of gland nuts and ended up messing up the threads on my strut tube removing them. I think the antisieze makes it easier to torque it further compared to no lubrication, which in this case was beneficial, since the torque spec on these is so high. Be careful though if you have the spot welded gland nuts vs the oem solid ones. Those spot welds will shear under enough torque. The ones I broke, I had only installed about a year and a half ago, just with no lubricant or cleaning of the old threads.
 
NLRegina said:
Oh man, I dealt with this too for a bit after refreshing my whole front suspension, it drove me insane. I'd be willing to bet it's your strut housing gland nuts that need to be tightened slightly further. Unless you tighten them in a vice, the strut will have barely enough movement to clunk a bit on turns and bumps. I was able to jack up he front end slightly with the wheel still on the ground, to get a view of the strut housing. From there I could slide up the boot and get a gland nut wrench through the spring to tighten it further. I think I had another quarter to half a turn left in each of mine, and the clunking went away after that.

I used antiseize on mine too, since I sheared and destroyed the last set of gland nuts and ended up messing up the threads on my strut tube removing them. I think the antisieze makes it easier to torque it further compared to no lubrication, which in this case was beneficial, since the torque spec on these is so high. Be careful though if you have the spot welded gland nuts vs the oem solid ones. Those spot welds will shear under enough torque. The ones I broke, I had only installed about a year and a half ago, just with no lubricant or cleaning of the old threads.
Click to expand...

Thank you for that.. I didn’t even think of that. I originally used some oil filter pliers and thought I got them tightened enough but maybe not.
 
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NLRegina said:
I used one of these from autozone since I was in a hurry and they didn't have the smaller one that I was looking for, but I think any gland nut wrench will do. You can get these for much cheaper elsewhere.

Click to expand...

That looks far better than the one I used to remove the original gland nut. I wasn’t impressed with the fact that the teeth kept slipping out when I attempted to use it. The KYB gland nuts are a giant hex so unfortunately I can’t use it. I think I might have to get a giant pipe wrench or channel locks to tighten them. I’m hoping I’ll be able to get them into between the springs so I don’t have to remove the struts again.
 
mattd1205 said:
That looks far better than the one I used to remove the original gland nut. I wasn’t impressed with the fact that the teeth kept slipping out when I attempted to use it. The KYB gland nuts are a giant hex so unfortunately I can’t use it. I think I might have to get a giant pipe wrench or channel locks to tighten them. I’m hoping I’ll be able to get them into between the springs so I don’t have to remove the struts again.
Click to expand...
If you can't get a wrench in there and have to take it out, I would recommend getting rid of the KYB nuts and using some of these with antisieze:
 
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